Here's the newest. I've "raised the roof" to make the air shoot straighter towards the valves instead or shooting straight in then turn right away.
All that material you took off of the valve guides...to me looks like they will drop alot sooner because of it then you would like, Maybe even right away.
I did look at them before I grinded them down. About 5mm from the top of the guide or so it opens up more than the rest of the way down. This is why I did it. That 5mm up top doesn't touch the valve at all. R&D...we'll see when a valve dies?
Your ports look nice and shiny now. I take it you are planning on flow testing them before you use them, if so I am very interested what your numbers are. I have that extra set of EJ205 heads sitting around you know.... What kind of springs and retainers are those?
I do want to. These are interesting heads to see because they have larger exhaust ports. hahaha you want some DoubleD's too eh? ahahaha The springs and retainers are Crower.
fuji, we may need you to give our rally car some head now that it's turbo time! or at least some advice on heads
Here are the heads in a little photoshoot. Nothing fancy....no bling bling really..... just function. Valve UNshrouding.
i got my '06 WRX heads flowed. we only flowed them with the stock cam as lift points so the intake didn't quite make it there for .4" lift.. just a hair under. Flowed with STOCK valves. Intake: .100" = 87cfm .200" = 177cfm .300" = 254cfm .398" = 283cfm Exhaust (straight) .100" = 81cfm .200" = 160cfm .300" = 202cfm .400" = 225cfm Exhaust (dog leg) .100" = 75cfm .200" = 150cfm .300" = 191cfm .400" = 211cfm The work done is mostly port work on the intake, the grinding valve guides down on intake and exhaust, making the valve guide support flush with the port on the exhaust, and valve seat blending/smoothing before the actual VALVE SEAT point of contact.
ok... this was a time to focus on the exhaust ports. Certain areas more material removed than other areas. I got a 5angle valve job done with a back cut on the valves. I came back and blended the seats after the valve job. I will get them flow tested with the valve job soon. Sorry cell phone pics at the moment. My lens on my Rebel XT is broken...I need a closer shot lens. $$$$
New numbers with a 5angle valve job with blending afterward. A bit more work on the exhaust ports especially the dog leg to bring out some more CFM. Intake: .100" = 90cfm .200" = 185cfm .300" = 251cfm .390" = 283cfm Exhaust (straight) .100" = 84cfm .200" = 165cfm .300" = 208cfm .400" = 225cfm Exhaust (dog leg) .100" = 90cfm .200" = 164cfm .300" = 206cfm .400" = 220cfm Most of the gains was mainly lower lift numbers with the 5angle valve job like expected. The dog leg exhaust port showed some good gains removing material at the areas I did. The diameter of the port is still the SAME at the gasket. It's not even gasket matched.
Started puttin the block together FINALLY. haahaahaha Pistons rings all gapped. .015" - 1st .020" - 2nd .015" - oil rings Torqued the rods onto the crank with the size2 rod bearings. I need to grab some block half o-rings. I have some here that I'll be using. So tomorrow night I'll put the block together and install the pistons.
so many projects at the same time... I need to turn them all away!!!! I need time for my self!!! lolz i need to find my tools..... loooking for my 14mm allen wrench. If I can't find it, i'm going to make one out of a bolt.
Fuji! Why isn't this done yet? I saw these parts laying around this fall! Hurry up and finish it, I want to see it out on the track this summer. It's looking damn nice so far though! - Adam
Fuji, From what i know from 2-stroke motorcycle engines, Knife edging the port dividers hurts the flow by causing flow separation. You might want to experiment with a radiused profile on the dividers. The quality of your porting work is AWESOME.
There are mixed talk about the splitter. It's like.. you have the old skool V8 guys and their carburetors and port work. Then you have these new skool cars that are FUEL INJECTED. Then you also have cars that are DIRECT injected. Then you apply forced induction in which air is being shoved in. I do question how much it hurts performance? Cosworth knife edges their intake ports. A handful of other head specialists knife edges it. Some don't. I can see it may pose an issue on carburetors but... fuel injected.... it's tough to say. Then comes back to the question...how much does it hurt performance?? I do leave the intake ports to have a blunt splitter. It's skinny enough and not sharp so it looks stockish.... lolz here's a few shots from tonight. I'm waiting for the block to warm up. Maybe I should use my sister's hair dryer to help... lolz Here you see the #5 thrust bearing placement on the EJ22T block and combustion chamber of the '06 WRX head matching up to the 2.2L bore; 97mm.
Here's how they look like at the moment. This is the newest revision of the head porting for the intake side and exhaust side; 02+ WRX exhaust ports, 07+EJ255, 07+ EJ257. I'm still working on the 04-'06 EJ257/04-'06 EJ255.
Forced Induction is the game changer!! Knife/blunt wont matter much. But on NA engines it does matter. Small point to note, the leading edges on any aerodynamic profile is almost never sharp, plane wings, wind turbine blades, F1 nose wings..etc etc. The trailing edge almost always is.
I just got one from grainger. They had them in stock at the plymouth location. I think it was $11 for a 1/2" drive 14mm hex socket. Isnt it like this on all of these things to generate some sort of lift force. They all are based on the premise of bernulie's principle. air moving slower over the top of the wing than the bottom will generate an upward force which is useful for moving turbines, lifting planes and holding cars to the road. I would think (just my opinion) that in a head application you want as smooth of flow as you can manage into the ports. the dividers being blunt will disrupt flow (although in the slightest amount which may not even be noticeable in normal use or high perf. turbo applications). Where as knife edging the dividers would allow for a smoother split and possibly better distribution of the air going to the ports (tiny bit less disturbance). Just my .02. Would I knife edge the dividers on a moderately built turbo motor, no. An NA motor might be a different story hard to say.
those edges produce lift and down force. The splitter simply splits air so the air goes into separate port runners and back into the same cylinder. Now when you apply carburetors into the equation, a blunt splitter help induce fuel mixture since it doesn't split the air evenly. The air hits it and gets pushes away on the sides and tumbles down the sides of the splitter and helps mix and pick up any fuel. Fuel injected motor sprays fuel right down into the valves. Fuel is also getting split as it moves down the port runners with the air going with it. As it gets jetted out from the injectors it mixes with the air down past the valves into the cylinder. Now... did it hurt performance in power output, or flow numbers, or velocity right after the splitter? With a blunt splitter, are we leaving it like that so that the air can separate itself by brushing up on each other and going different paths before air hitting the splitter? Velocity is wanted, why? Is it to just measure that air is traveling really fast down a small port? What about the total air in the cylinder after the intake stroke, is that more than what a bigger port can do? Or is velocity needed so the air and fuel can mix better as it swirls and tumbles down into the cylinder? The front of a wing... the LEADING EDGE. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leading_edge from my understanding is that it directs air above the top to give it LIFT. It's shaped that way for LIFT. Round because it has to be so the wing will have that thickness up front. That's my understanding.
mocking the head onto the block. I have the case bolted together. I just have to put all the plugs for the oil galleys back on as well as the piston squirters. Then the pistons go in tomorrow.
come back!!! i do question the splitter a lot as you can see from the above questions... and how much it actually hurts performance and what's to gain from it.
tonight's progress. I bought some BLUE locktite to keep the oil squirters in. Also new brass washers in place of the aluminum ones. They didn't fall out at all before... but just incase. Put thread seal tape on my plugs for the oil galleys, and installed my pistons. Pictures of the pistons through the ports. Then of course.. more pics of the Double-D's.... lolz
