Bah. The engine has too much to mess around with dinky turbos. At least a GT2871R 56 Trim sized turbo. Something that will do 350 whp on pump fuel. Borg or whatever.
thanks!! Here gassing up. I like this pump!!! $2.19/gal Here's the rubbing I get from the wide wheel/tire setup. This is taking the clover ramp with the Nitto NT01's. size again FYI: 17x9 +38 235/40/17 Nitto NT01
Update: So far so good. 4500ish miles. It seems maybe the fuel pump is maxed out. Next is swapping the fuel pump to a BOSCH unit and see if it fixes the lean part 5500-8000rpms. 11.2afr then it goes 12.2@5500. We've adjusted MAF scaling and injector scaling, change to big MAF, as well as upped the fuel pressure. We shall see what happens after that. Currently as said before, the car is on E85 and pushing around 22psi. The 20G is a heck of a turbo. You have to wait for the 4100rpms but anytime you're there and above, it only takes 250-500rpms from vacuum to peak boost. Anything below and you do have to wait. That's why you DOWNSHIFT if you need to get up and go. You must DRIVE according to the setup. Don't expect so much from it and you're loading the engine at 3000rpms in 4th and expect to pass someone on the slow lane. A downshift to the right gear for takes LESS TIME than waiting for the turbo. The EWG is a heck of a unit. The one I'm current have on the car is the Tial Ver2 Vband 38mm. It has 2 tops ports, 3 side ports and 2 water ports. This unit is designed to be able be water cooled. The lower 3 ports and 2 tops port allow you to fit the EWG in tight spaces and still have a nipple/fitting close by facing the direction that best works for your application. It is very small, just like me, and makes placement around the engine bay a lot easier. Small is also a good thing in weight as well. I am very satisfied with this new wastegate.
TiAL says it's the replacement for the V44. You sure it's only a 38mm valve? Anyways, that is baddass that it can be water cooled. About time!
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2761840 I have the MV-S V2 MV-S V2.0 Water Cooled, Re-designed Top, Same Price. Available now in limited colors, this revamp features water cooling ports (patent pending) three bottom air ports and two top air ports. Water ports are not required for operation, but come in handy if you are road racing, the top hat is close to the turbine housing/down pipe or you have an engine bay that doesn't get a lot of airflow. Air and Water ports are clearly marked so there is no confusion. http://www.tialmedia.com/NH/top900.jpg
It's been a long time awaiting for the resurrection of the BM Version 2. I was offered another opportunity to test drive her at DCTC over the weekend. I did notice some changes in how she handles as well as drives. The power has been enhanced with the new bigger 20G turbo, is it better-well that all depends. I only wish I had mounted the HD GoPro Camera, had I not been so preoccupied to show you just how violent the power is being delivered. So here it goes, Sunday afternoon the BM showed up with the usual suspects. The car was still in development condition, she still needs to have some house cleaning ends wrapped up. Loose wires, missing panels and definitely a dead pedal to help brace myself since she currently doesn't have a buck seat with harnesses. On the initial shakedown I immediately noticed the steering wheel felt heavier than I recall since driving it about a year ago. The quick steering rack plus the sticky low profile Nitto NT-01 tires really let you know just how much contact you have with the gods. The drive by wire did respond a little slower, but that's to be expected, not a whole lot but when compared to the Ver.1 which was drive by cable you felt more in tuned and could manage the power delivery with more precision and with less hesitation with your inputs. The Project Mu 999 race pads had very good initial bit once warmed up, but after a few laps they faded to where they were consistent and predictable at that level. Probably due to the lack of new brake fluids and air cooling ducts. Which is highly recommended for this new setup. I still believe this car would really benefit from a duel short shifter with good bushing to help shorten the throws and tighten up the feel of each shifts to allow you to keep up with the car and drive with confidence so you won't mis-shift. The rev's comes up so quick even if it took a second to shift you're still too slow. I'd like to see this come down to a hair of a second. And maybe a better shift knob that will offer better grip. I would prefer a flick of a wrist over a shallow throw. The new setup had me thinking maybe the quick steering rack might just hinder the performance just a bit on tight technical courses like DCTC. The turns come up so quick the heavy feedback made it a bit more challenging to steer and counter steer when executing maneuvers around hair pins and consecutive turns now with the power band being higher and stickier rubber and stiffer suspension the car is bucking back as to say are you worthy of taking this ride? I'm always trying to keep the lightest grip when ever possible, but I guess it's not so much of an option when you're driving a beast like the BM. I was able to manage but it also too some of my attention away from other thing. Like the pretty umbrella girls in short mini skirts who came out to help volunteer picking up cones while we play. I like the new 235 NT01 tires, but felt they were just a tad short on grip especially when coming out of the uphill decreasing radius left hander going sideways in each direction WOT while keeping it under 6k. She was very easy to transition around the slalom and around tight turns with a bit of LFB. I know the fenders are keeping you from going wider, but if you cut them out, they won't be anymore. The smallest I would recommend is at least 255 for a high speed track like BIR. I personally think the car is capable of doing under 1:50 around the short track with ease. The 12k BC Inverted all around felt kinda weird at various moments. Under hard acceleration the front end of the car still lifted more than I could muster with mine. But that could be more to due with other suspension components at work here. I didn't feel the car was stiff enough when compared to how mine rides with A032R set at 5 hard with 10k Front and 8k Rear similar car weight. I felt body roll and flex which helped cause some understeer in some medium speed sections. And under braking down hill there was more travel than expected when setting up for the chicane. You could definitely feel the four corners a lot stiffer with the new high spring rates, but whats missing is everything in between. I was really looking forward to testing the car in the City Blocks section but BM was cutting out on fuel while half full when making these turns, so we just cruised thru that section. A surge tank maybe in order. The new power is great and with the new setup its made the BM a totally different car. The Ver. 1 had it's own set of issues, but it was much easier to get it around turns with much much less understeer, who knows it's probably because of those grease monkey RT615. LOL I felt more comfortable driving it on the limit more so partly because the car felt more natural like a thin rubber surgen's glove verse's a soft leather mechanic's glove. There are still many things I like about the BM, but now that you're getting into a whole nother territory the rules have changed. All the fun things you used to do before will not work here going forward, so it's time to get serious especially if you want to start playing with the big boys. Well I don't want to sound to critical, but instead from one driver to another and as your friend I feel its dangerous to give false compliments, but rather lets work on improving the situation. I always enjoyed test driving your car and look forward to helping you develop a machine that will keep you safe as well as make you competitive at any driving level you so desire. Many thanks, -Cheech PS: I love how the EWG was screaming all over the track!
I had 255s NT-01's all the way around on my M Coupe. They stuck everywhere, very confidence inspiring going into turn 1 at BIR at about 150 mph. One thing I did notice is I felt the weight of them in the steering, compared to the RA-1s. Great write up btw.
great write up musashi. too bad BM was already done for the day when I got there. but still learned a lot, from you and of course, this thread!
thebionicman - when was the last time you were at BIR? Maybe I'll see you out there some time. I was just there last Monday. olegrad - I'd be interested in reading about your views and experience since you had gotten into Subaru's and since last Sunday's experience. You're coming along very well, I could see it since we last drove together about a year ago. I really like the new car. Switching from the dark side to the pearl white side is pretty cool. Thanks guys.
I haven't been up to BIR this season. I sold the M Coupe for the money to build up my new kit car. I'll be back on track next season.
The compression test before the dyno when we swapped out to new plugs was Cly #1 140psi Cly #2 140psi Cly #3 140psi Cly #4 145psi This is roughly 6800ish miles. It only would burn oil via blow by through the vacuum hoses. This happens when running higher RPMs. An oil catch can was installed and it showed oil coming through. I'll get a puff of smoke at startup especially when I ran it at high RPM's before I shut off the car. Will have to see if it still burns oil out during normal driving. I strongly suggest an oil catch can when you are going to be running the car hard.
orly!!! Here's my fast secret. IAT's would normally be like 120-150*. Now it's as cool as the air outside if not a few degrees warmer. One night we were cruising the Hiway, a cool night... 60-70* or something to that and IAT's where 72*. The car is MUCH more preppy normal driving light throttle stuff. Good pickup because the initial air being drawn in is much cooler than engine bay air.
Ummm... i think that box will catch fire at some point from the heat off the turbo and the whole engine bay especially if you do some hard driving on the track.
LOL you literally have to put the box right on the turbo to get it started. The box will be fine, lol
+1 lol. the ambient temps within the engine bay are no where near high enough to ignite corrugated board. If they did get that hot, a lot of other OEM parts would be destroyed too (ignition point for cardboard is higher than most melting points for plastics)
Ok...However, i doubt if the techs at BIR or any track would accept a box in the engine bay for track purposes. Dunno - but with how picky they are of cars, it can be disappointment to your planned intention... Although i know he is not done yet and has more to come.
I like the box idea, I have sort of the same setup on my Evo with the tube and all. I would assume this is just a prototype until he gets a sheet metal version in there All it takes is some rivets and $10-20 in sheet metal to make it a final box.
I dunno if most of you all know.... but this is my 3rd engine setup. '91 EJ22T complete swap '02 EJ205 head/EJ22T shortblock swap '06 EJ255 head/EJ22T shortblock swap (built shortblock) just an update. The glass window will be replaced prob next week. The car is getting setup for an autocross this Sunday with the Corvette club. We hope to get some video footage. A rear sway bar will be put back in; 20mm WRX to bring out the tail end again. The brakes will be bled out with new blue fluid. The oil will be changed and brake pedal will be adjusted. BRAKE PEDAL!!!! I have long battled this issue. Normal driving the pedal feel would be fine. It'll bite well and up top. However when you put the car through any turns or say mad drifts, the initial bite is DEEP. I've swapped out the MS to a SVX 1 1/16 unit, still no cure. I've bled the brakes MANY times, still no cure. I've tested HIGH vacuum to the brake booster costing me my rod bearings, and still no cure. I've put in NEW pads, still no cure. When I did the 6spd swap, I had to go hydraulic pedal box. I did NOT adjust the pin down there and just dropped it in. SO that'll be the NEXT thing to adjust and see if it will take up some slack down there. SO we'll see if this will fix it. Mileage is currently 7450miles.
Looking good son. Sucks about your brake issue. I'm a little worried running the stock MS with the Brembos. That's weird that swapping the MS didn't change the behavior at all. I hope you get it figured out!
BM at COM Autox Sept 12 at DCTC Morning runs. Sorry no audio since my GOPro is not a pro at capturing great audio.
Afternoon Runs: Best time 63.792 3rd fastest of the day on NT01's 235/40-17 Write up to follow very soon! This is my brother from another mother! http://www.flickr.com/photos/422455...4988856706/in/set-72157624943677090/lightbox/ The only picture I could find with #43
So I never thought I'd go back to auto crossing it's been many years and I had lost interest. Than my friend from work informs me the old crew was getting together at an event hosted by the Corvette Club. And that's where our story begins. My car was done for the season so I text Fuji to see if he'd be interested in taking out the BM for another tune up. He happily obliged and worked horrendously to get the car ready for me to take it to the track. I had only driven the newly revised version once prior to this engagement and I was informed the car was still being broken in at the time. But this time the car was ready to take on anything I could throw her way, including using all the rev's up to 8500 as the owner had kindly advised me to take full advantage of. I ended up meeting Fuji at DCTC in the morning where we exchanged vehicles. He had to leave for work and I had some work to do myself. The turn out was very good 88 drivers registered, they split the group in half and than into thirds. I jumped onto group 1A. First on the track so we can clean the track as some would say, but this would pay off on the second half cause I won't be so tired, it sucks being the last ones on the track cause by then all you want to do is be done and go home. We were pretty much guaranteed to get seven runs. After walking the course I knew this was going to be a very fast course. So my strategy was to push very hard on my first two runs and than dial it back from there. I won't suggest this unless you are familiar with the track, can engage the car quickly and can make adjustments quickly. The brake issue we were having before wasn't so much of any issue anymore, after the first initial hard braking which had a very high engagement point the pedal quickly settled down to about half way and stayed consistent for the rest of the day. But I did run into a new brake issue one I had anticipated but there wasn't a whole lot I could do. Turns out the NT01 235/40-17 tires was a mismatch with the Project MU Full race pads. They were way too aggressive for this type of course with the current setup. The window between threshold braking to trail braking to lockup was super small. My first few session I was fighting with huge amounts of understeer, it wasn't so much an issue of me trying to carry all this speed but trying to balance the brakes to find the happy median so I could. I ended up just doing everything a lot sooner and slower, turn-in points were the same just ended up coming in much slower than I wanted to. I also found some challenges trying to setup the car so I could pitch it into the hairpins, the car was bucking and fighting me the whole way. Coming off the start all four tires would spin, than the brakes would lock up the tires coming into the first hairpin, than after the hairpin WOT all the way down into the fast right hand sweeper, the car felt like it was going to come off the track often times wheels still spinning while we're already in motion. I got into the right hand sweeper and I trail brake, than as I get closer to the second hairpin I pinch the brakes to load the front and get the rear to come around and I'm back on the gas hard. This was also very challenging since the car had a very heavy steering feedback looking for every ounce was very difficult. After clearing that section it was a quick left down a few gates left right left and another hairpin to the left. I locked it up here a few times so instead of braking after the last gate I moved it before it. I come around the hairpin and its back to WOT for a brief moment down two slalom cones than back to WOT, lifting just a little bit to get the car to turn right up the hill and than hard braking. Quick right hand and back on the throttle hard all the way down to the finish line. All in all I was able to maintain enough speed thru the turns to utilize 2nd gear. I felt the body flex more than ever cause when ever I could I would open her up quickly and hard with both hands on the wheel making the slightest adjustments to keep all four on the track. I ended up making some tire pressure changes which helped calm the back end a lot. I did have one hairy moment and by that time the tires where starting to complain as did the car and I had started pushing my luck so on my last run I short shifted at 5k and used part throttle, I managed to get a 1:06 clean run no cones. Lots of things happened and I tried many different things but in short that's basically what happened. I had a great time, hope you enjoy the recap and videos. What did we learn: 1. Body flex which we knew but it was a lot more noticeable on these types of courses. 2. Tires are too small for the race pads-either go less aggressive on the pads or get wider tires. But considering the power it's better to go with wider tires to fully utilize the power while cornering. 3. Duel short shifter and bushing-I found myself guessing gears and shuffling looking for gears at times, even 2nd gear didn't want to go in at 4-6k. 4. Lighten up the steering wheel so we can feel for the tires limit. Too heavy firmer grip with aggressive pads is a very hard combination to drive fast and safely. 5. Bigger hood scoop-the car started experiencing heat soak on the second half because I could get enough time in between to cool down the car. 6. This thing needs a cage to keep the driver safe, I had a few moments were we could of easily taken off into the weeds considering speeds we were able to achieve. And in some instances I choose the cone over my time. 7. Bucket seat-keep you safe and better driving behind the wheel. 8. Quite down the car so you can hear the tires working. 9. Secure the dash, I raised the steering wheel immediately once I got into the car cause that's how I roll. 10. Remove the elbow rest. Many thanks to Fuji for allowing me the opportunity to help test drive his car and suggest improvements. This thing is a beast of a car be careful and be safe while having fun in it. And must not forget NUKE for doing such an incredible job of tuning this car to make such amazingly usable power from start to finish.
ok I'll go 255/40/17's next year. Here a vid update. no DCCD controller, on snow tires and driving on wet concrete. This is 3rd gear
