It keeps the heat from the heads from getting too much into the intake manifold, they wont take away ALL the heat, but they help.
I've resorted to immediately flipping the vent to recirc for the first five to ten minutes of warm up. Does the fix with a longer fuel line make R&R of the Intake necessary?
Dude I'm only taking the turbo inlet off and replacing the two sections of fuel line, I've done plenty to know that taking that one piece off doesn't require draining the coolant and little if any electrical work.
I went after this today. I hate that intake manifold after today. I hope this works! I replaced all 3 lines under the IM. It appears my car had been apart before, it was missing all the bolts that hold the metal fuel lines in place to the intake mani, as well as the ones that hold the wiring harness. A friend went after it last week and replaced the stock intake tube with a aftermarket one and was able to get to the lines when doing that.
I guess I'm not seeing where it can be that difficult, others are saying that they did it w/o taking the mani off. The two lines I'm talking about are the ones directly under the turbo inlet, not the driver side ones. I can just slip the longer section on and slide it foward onto the other side, can I not? If you know something I don't let me know. I'm not going to replace the hard lines just the rubber ones with longer sections.
I'm assuming it solved your problem as well? How long have you had it fixed? The smell is driving me nuts and making me dizzy. what size is the stock line? I only have one vehicle so I need to get everything at once. Did you locktite the fuel clamp screws so they don't loosen?
If the install of new longer fuel lines is all that's needed, and this can be done w/o R&R the IM, that'd be great. I don't have a good idea of exactly where and which lines are the culprit, anyone able to take a digital photo and post? I'd also like to know: 1) are the existing clamps easy to get at and remove? (screw or pinch type?) 2) what's the spec for the new fuel line, length? diameter? 3) if best/easier to replace the clamps, what type is recommended?
I have been putting up with the smell for around 1.5 months. I just fixed it yest. Last two weeks have been finals and school was more important then fixing a smelly car. Stock line is 5/16. I did not loctite the clamps or anything, I just made each line about 1/2 longer then the OEM ones. All of the clamps were tight when i took it apart. Does anyone know if the STis have this problem?
here are a few pics I found on nasiocrap now I just have to get an inlet and I'll be set to do this myself, I gonna replace the rubber lines, though
I wouldn't recommend the use of the clamps with the cuts in them. They can cut into a hose, and create another leak. Your supposed to use fuel injection clamps, that's why they are already on there.
this doen't solve the drivers side. I've seen cars quit leaking (clamps tightened) on one side and start-up on the other. I'm going to do mine before the ice races. however, I'm going to take out the manifold so everything can be replaced with ease
That's how to CORRECTLY solve the issue. Bending new fuel line to get it into place, or tweaking the hard line from NOT removing the manifold is NOT a good idea. There is a chance that you could kink the hard line under the manifold by not removing the two bolts that hold it in place, and they really aren't accessible when you don't remove the intake mani.
ar e you talking to me?! because I'm pretty sure this post came off nasioc and I used someone else's pics for reference. Quit being an ass.
ScubaSteve tightened the fuel line hose clamps using a flexible drive screw driver which has fixed the fuel smell for now. Did find this good step-by-step hose repair which I have not seen posted here before. Probably do not have to replace the metal fuel lines as the instructions show. Replacing with longer hoses is the way to go and hose sizes are listed in the picture as metric which convert approx. to .3 X .5 X 3-3/4". Longer is better since replacing the metal fuel line is probably not necessary due to this length increase.http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2886
Motorhead, that link is fantastic, showing the full tear down and reinstall. Am I correct to assume that if just the hoses are replaced, thre is no need to remove as much of the guts.
I would start with tightening the hose clamps using flexible blade screw driver. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00973286000P?vName=Tools&cName=HandTools,GeneralPurpose&sName=Screwdrivers&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a Otherwise longer hoses would take of it this does not work, long term.
And for my first post.... Anyone have a torque spec for the intake bolts? I'm doing this right now, with lines, hoses and gaskets.
Ref. the Sub. manual that I have on .pdf shows torque for Intake Manifold should be 8.25 N-m=6.1 ft-lbs. WRX Manuals found at http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals which avg. 25 Mb.
Exactly!!!! I'm doing mine Friday or Saturday and taking the intake mani off. Cool, glad it worked. However, don't be suprised if it starts leaking somewhere else on the lines. As mentioned, I'm doing mine this weekend. I'm not leaking, but I sure as heck don't want to have an issue pop-up when at the ice races, especially way up in Orr, MN where it's always super cold! I'm also going to paint the intake manifold black...to be different
This just in... on my '04 wagon, the smell was coming from the steel lines under the intake manifold, which were wet today when I took it to the Morrie's. They want to replace my fuel pipes and hoses in that area for $500. Argh. :emo: I didn't have them do it this morning (since it would cost a buttload and take all day, so I couldn't pick it up until tomorrow) but by the looks of the rest of this thread I think I may end up having to bite the bullet. I was NOT ready for that...
Honestly, it all depends on how bad it is. I've seen them so bad the gas is actually pooling on the cylinder head. I wouldn't ignore that. :ugh:
Isn't it a safety / insurance issue, though? I mean, theoretically if some source of ignition (like, say, someone's cigarette lighter, or another car) got close enough to ignite the gas vapors wouldn't my car burst into flames? And now since I know about it and chose not to fix it (some form of negligence) then my insurance company would have justification to NOT give me any money IF my car does explode. Am I totally off track on this? ... not that I know of anyone on my block that deliberately takes smoke breaks right next to my car while it's warming up.
My service adviser told me that the steel lines are wet. Here's a quote from the service record they gave me: "Inspection found wetness at the fuel pipe to hose connections. Recommend replacement of fuel pipes and hoses under the engine intake manifold" So it sounds to me like a connection thing...
It's pretty rare that they leak bad enough to pool up on the head/block, but I have seen it happen. Supposedly the newer rail (metal) is on the 04+ vehicles, but I have seen 2 that had the older (02-03) rails on them. Might be something that changed with certain vehicle VIN #'s.
My 02 WRX was pooling and boiling before Morries fixed 'er. I noticed steam while sitting in the drive-thru at the bank and decided I would get it in the next day.
mine is pooling when it get below -20 air temp. Ordered a new inlet today and replacing the lines when it all gets here.
well, did my fuel lines this weekend. I cheated by removing my turbo inlet and A/C Compressor. The fuel lines leaked at one point long ago, but weren't leaking this year However, I still didn't want to chance it since the Ice Race is going to be sooooo cold. oh, and I left the A/C compressor belt off. For faster revs of course. LOL
well of course it worked. :roll:... I replaced the rubber lines and clamps. Bielke55 at Morries hooked me up with the oem rubber connections/lines so i don't recall the size. yeah, i let the car sit outside overnight and then drove it to work. If it was goning to leak it sure as heck would've by now.
I'm convinced I have this problem. I had very strong fuel smell in my car last night. How much can be done without removing the manifold? Is it possible to do at least the drivers side without removing the manifold? Can you access the fuel line by taking out the turbo inlet and is this possible to do without removing the manifold? I'd prefer to have minimal down time with my car, or at least minimal work time on it out in the cold! Worst case senario, I'l just tear it apart.
Yeah I have this problem too, it only started this week. How bad does this need to be before it needs to be fixed? I don't have alot of cash on hand right now.
To do it correctly, you should remove the intake manifold. You don't want to have to bend the metal rail to squeeze the rubber lines in and out. You also don't want to have to do it twice by not doing it correctly. If you take your time, removing the manifold isn't that hard. Just remember to clean the gasket surfaces (on the heads and manifold). If you don't, you will be pulling it back off again!
just fixed this problem today by installing a new inlet (PITA!!!) and replacing the hoses with really expensive fuel injection/pressure line from napa it was $20 for two feet and felt alot stiffer then reg fuel line. I told them I wanted the best stuff so I didn't have to do it again. I also replaced the fule line clamps with upgraded units and locktitied them with red loctite I used three per hose which were double clamped in some places just in case. So far it works great we'll see this weekend when its -10.
