Give me an estimate on the WHP I'll probably make? Asking before I go to a protuner so I can debate if I want to add more stuff in before getting a Protune. Did some researching. Most likely might be around 290 to 300 to the wheels on Pump 93. My goal is to reach atleast 330+whp for a DD. Stock Internals and Stock Tranny. No high stall torque converters nor transmission cooler. I do not plan on flooring this car unless I need to overtake someone nor do I plan to launch it. 05 WRX Station Wagon A/T Current Mods Big Tmic STI Pink 565cc Fuel Injectors 255 Walbro Fuel Pump Big 16g Turbo SPT Air Intake 3inch Catless Downpipe 3inch Turbo Back Exhaust TurboXS Uppipe SteamSpeed EBCS No Name Aftermarket Silicone Turbo Inlet (not sure if it even gains HP) Running on Pump 93 *If not enough to make to my goals* Future Mods High Stall Torque Converter Transmission Cooler Maybe a 20g turbo if needed to upgrade TGV Delete Equal Length Headers 1050cc Fuel Injectors Brian Crower 272 Cams Protune with Dual Pump 93/E85 These future mods probably won't be done until I pull out the engine to replace the headgaksets including timing belt or if the motor needs a rebuild. Thanks in advance for your thoughts & opinions in estimating!
You’ll run out of fuel with those injectors I would think. I was running 800cc injectors and made it to about 230whp on stock everything with my 02 WRX. With bigger injectors you may hit the 280-290 with the 16g. -Josh my guess is 250-260whp Is your car stock now? Or stage 2?
My suggestion, if you're looking for 330+ is to go with 1000+ cc injectors. I've found that more often than not, fueling will be the limiting constraint on most tunes, especially with your current mods. With that, install a flex fuel sensor and run E85, should get you close to what you are looking for. You could have 2 separate tunes (pump gas and E85) but what I am finding, and ran into last fall, is that a lot of pump E85 is not truly E85. It helps your engine adjust based on the ethanol content.
You're likely looking at everything below your *If not enough to make to my goals* notation to make those kinds of numbers, and based on what you're use case is, sounds like a colossal waste of time and money.
My post has my current mods. I'm running OTS stage 2 just to get to a Protuner. My injectors are STI Pink 565cc.
Well, I will break your heart. Not a thing on that list will get you even close to 330WHP through a auto tranny. Auto vs manual is a totally different ballgame. I was running a 18g with 800cc injectors and at 24psi of boost I was only in the 260ish range for whp (and that was with the large converter). WTQ was pushing the 350+ area, but it is a whole different game that with a manual. A 20g on the stock converter is going to suck, you need the slip to help with the spool. And since it looks like you are just going to "drive" your car, run what you have. It will save you tons of time and money. Russ
We're also talking about a 15 year old engine with unknown mileage or maintenance history. Assuming the engine is healthy, I say don't worry about your 'numbers', just a good pro-tune will make your car faster, more responsive, more fun and safer.
Ah, so there is a difference in power gaining in auto and manual. I best just use what I have as of now and just save the future stuff for my project car.
I don’t know another person that has put more time/effort into tuning and increasing power in an auto trans more than Russ(WRX1). His advice is about as good as it gets!
My 20G on the phase 2 auto with pro torque converter on 93 pump with meth injection made like 300 ish . Also if you plan on making high HP on an auto, none of the phase 2 trans ( 2002 ) and newer will hold more than 400 wheel. Take it from me with 4EAT’s been there broke that.
yes and no. The motor makes the power, it doesn't matter what trans is behind it, it is how it gets delivered to the wheels. It is just a different animal, you can't compare them based on WHP and WTQ numbers. The auto is a constantly slipping clutch where as the manual is direct drive. That slipping clutch will kill a WHP number and give you a incredible WTQ number. The auto is going to be stupid quick out of the hole and give everything a run for the money to 80-100mpg, after that is is all downhill. You want to do a from roll at 60, you are going to loose your ass every time, from 35-40 and its a completely different story. And it is back to what YOU want out of YOUR car. I have a 09 FXT, stock turbo (td04) with just a tune and a catless dowpipe with the stock muffler section. IIRC it was only 220ish WHP and over 300ftlb at the wheels. Not even close to anything "fast", but it was fun and fairly quick. I had a bunch of big plans, but at the end of the day, I just drove it back and forth to work with a few road trips thrown in. I didn't get crazy with the tune, so I wasn't worried one bit about being able to get the correct gas anywhere I went, I could just drive it.
Yes TQ's with autos = <iframe>< width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/eKDXLYytae8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I bought a new set of fuel injectors that's 1050cc. I installed them, but I'm getting a check engine light and reads misfire on all 4 cylinders. Is this because I need a protune or is it faulty injectors? I did a flow test before installed the new injectors and they were fine. Spark plugs and coil packs are fine as well. I always run premium 93 gas pump
Without a tune you’re probably running extremely rich. It might idle ok but that’s about it. From what I understand it’s best to get a map from who you’re having tune your car. They can get you close so you can drive it to the shop but without a tune I would expect misfires on all cylinders. The ecu can only learn so much and a drastic change in injector flow under load isn’t one of them.
Car idles as if its gonna die. Car did die a few time when I pressed on the gas on drive and reverse. Other than that it idles fine and almost normally once on drive or reverse. If I floor it right when I put the gear on drive or reverse, car dies. If I floor press the gas pedal more, doesn't accelerate fast or normally. Just accelerates at the same speed of pressing the gas pedal 1/5. So is car dying something I should I expect too?
Yeah. It doesn’t know why all the extra fuel is being pumped in without tuning for it. I’d take them out unless you have someone who can map the larger injectors.
Don't be surprised if you have issues once you switch back to your normal injectors. With that much extra fuel its possibly you could of fouled all your spark plugs.
