**Update: Matt at RS Motors tore into the engine to find that the previous rebuild was the problem. Apparently there were a lot of issues (block was scored, heads were scored, etc.). I bought a brand new short block through eBay insurance and got that installed. Bought a set of heads off another customer at RS Motors. All seems good now**
I would get a second opinion on the motor, could have other issues, before I just said ok... time to build a new motor. There are plenty of other members on here who could take a look and see if they can find something. What is not running well? or is it just the knock?
Well was the old turbo even bad? I wouldn't feel so hot with a shop telling me I need an engine build when they just sold me a new turbo to "solve the problem"
Basically the car just doesn't want to run right - knock sensor is still pulling 6 degrees and there is a weird lag from 3k -3.5k (which was really the thing I noticed when I first got it - it ran okay to this point and then would stop/lag a bit to 3.5k then go okay). I am planning to have it checked out by another party was thinking of just bringing it to Subaru at this point. Any other recommendations on who to bring it to? MAP could not find anything wrong with previous turbo, but either way I wanted to downsize.
Does it feel like a weird hesitation? The 2008's had a really different mess with throttle positioning or knock sensor stuff. I had Bullwinkle do a bunch of research and it was a pretty common problem on that MY. It took him awhile to find the remedy through the tuning community, but he eventually got it minimized. A good stage 2 flash from Ronnie at RS cleared it up completely. Definitely get someone else to look at it. I don't know how busy Ronnie and Matt at RS are right now, but i'd take it there.
Using the engine load comp table helped just for a bit...lol Has nothing to do with 'knock sensor stuff'
Thank you for the correction mang! I just know that it annoyed the hell out of Lexie until she went full stage 2 with it and got rid of the wierd hesitaion issue that it had before. It was really annoying when i drove it. Seemed that a little "there's the boost...oh, wait, wth...there it is again!!" lol
First thing to check is if there are any parts hitting the frame. Like an after market header too close to the frame. A good log should somewhat show what's going on. Everyone here will just be guessing without more info.
they worked most of the issues out but were guessing the piston were hot spotted. They got it up to operating temp and it was acting bad. Did a compression/leakdown for a third time and it passed the compression but failed the leakdown on three cylinders. I am currently working with eBay/the dealership I bought the car from to get it fixed. Really sucks.
"We have been able to successfully tune out any 'I' drive issues in the past. The ones that have not worked out are usually do to some underlying issue. Also the knock sensor is working properly. We can hear noise (knock/ping) audibly outside the car while doing a pull which raises red flags. I will let you know our findings later today. In talking to my mechanic and tuner trying to figure out what is going on. We think that the piston or pistons were hot spotted, which explains it passing our tests. Once the engine was running correctly the extra heat caused a ring land failure. This is making me change my testing to a compression leak down." "We have it nailed down. Basically what we talked about last, which was the possibility the pistons are hot spotted. Once the engine was running correctly it causes a piston failure. It will still pass a compression but fails a leak down. Meaning the short block will need repair. "
The 2.0 that came with my car acted in a very similar fashion. Any type of load and the motor would fall on its face. The knock sensor was picking up noise causing the ecu to pull gobs of timing resulting in what seemed like a misfire. I tore into the engine and found #3 rod bearing worn to the core........no babbit remaining.
