I just got done installing a new turbo on my car 04 STI/Element GT65. I drove it about 5-10 miles today. Runs ok seems a little off but I noticed my DTEC is running at 99.x% IDC all the time driving and idle. I promptly went home and reset the ecu and reflashed my current map to no help. I figured if it was electrical it would either display nothing or 99.9 all the time on the DTEC but neither of those is the case. The intake manifold came off in this process for fitment of the new inlet. I inspected all the injector plugs and made sure they are tight. Did not have this issue this spring when I pulled it from storage with the 20G on it and drove it that weekend. Using 816cc perrin modded stockers. Any ideas?
Did you pinch anything? Seriously, Pete, this sounds electrical. I would look at your wiring and where the DTEC plugs into the wire from the ECU. Also, awaiting confirmation from a tuner type, but I'm going to assume that if you were actually running 99% IDC at idle, your car wouldn't idle.
I'll check tonite but the wiring was not disturbed by the ecu during the turbo install only the wiring on the manifold and the grounds. Also one item to note is every other function on the dtec is running fine. RPM/Boost etc.
Yes, but your DTEC monitors IDC at the ECU, not the engine bay. Again, that's fine, because it monitors IDC from the injector driver line from the ECU.
The DTEC has a few sensor lines, and a common ground. RPM gets a signal wire, pulse repetition time divided by 4 more than likely Boost is read from the MAP sensor TPS is read from the throttle position sensor line to the ECU Knock is read from the knock sensor WGDC is read from the boost controller module that is plugged into the DTEC And IDC is likely read from the line to injector 1 from the ECU
Try a different dtec. There's no way your car would idle at 99% idc, lol. You'd have raw fuel running out of the exhaust.
:laugh::laugh::laugh: "Hey dude, your car's pouring gas out of the exhaust." "Oh, that's just the DTEC."
Yup, what they said. IDC is a calculated value based off of RPM and injector pulse width. Unless the pulse width is something insane like 120 ms (and yeah, in this case you'd have fuel everywhere and the car wouldn't even run), no way it's going to be 99% at idle.
I just inspected the purple wire(IDC/Scramble/Vehicle Speed per the manual) running from the dtec to ecu and no visible problems. Also inspected the connection to the DTEC and it was completely plugged in and plugged into the right port. I'll look more into it tomorrow and test for loose connections when I have better light and can idle the car in my driveway while not pissing off the neighbors so much.
Well, if you had a fuel line pinched to the point where the car wasn't getting enough fuel, it could make the idc's jump that high. Problem with that is your car would never get enough fuel to run properly. So you are back to the electrical problem. Did you ever hook up a scan tool to see what the ecu is reading?? You could have some bug in the dtec software and the ecu is reading fine. Russ
I will take a look at the fuel lines as well tonite just to make sure a line isn't pinched. The car definitely isn't running right...it runs but there is definitely something off that is why I put it back in the garage right away after the initial test drive. I checked the CEL's and nothing other than the TGV and BCS codes which the car had before. I have not plugged something in to see what the IDC's are from the ECU that is something to try if I can't find a line or wire messed up tonite.
I've had a funeral I had to go out of town for and I'm mulling over a new job offer on top of this so I honestly haven't had even five minutes for the car yet this week. I'm dropping the car off at RS to be fixed and tuned tomorrow. If it turns out I need aftermarket fuel rails my car will be down for at least another week or two for ordering parts. I'll spend some time on it tonite before I drop it off there but if I have to work on this car one more day in my poor excuse of a garage I'm going to start punching holes in the wall. Hopefully my car will be up and tuned for the weekend.
Thanks, Rich. I'm not gonna make power like you though, I think my turbo will fit into your new turbos inlet lolz.
I'm working tomorrow so I'll actually be dropping it off tonite. They are going to fix it before it goes on the dyno so I have no idea what time it will be on there.
This makes a pretty good case for Russ's theory of a pinched fuel line. The APS 3" hard inlet makes changes to the rails. I have the Element which is silicone but the same size. I'm going to inspect the wiring on the manifold end to end as the wiring on the DTEC all appears to be in order.
So the beast just got tuned and it made right around 350whp with pump gas on RS's dyno. A little lower than I was hoping but I'm at work so I can't really talk to Ron about specifics yet. 110 octane will probably be in my near future : )
Upon looking at the notes from Matt/Ron I just realized I failed at putting the drivers side heatshield back on the exhaust manifold : ( I just noticed its tucked away in the corner of my garage(out of sight out of mind). Apparently my intake temps were running hot and they maxed it at 18psi. It drives fantastic though and the wastegate is so quiet now I love it so props to Ron, Matt, and Fabiola for getting her going! I'll have those glitches fixed for when we do the race gas tune after I can pick myself up a laptop to store maps.
I don't think a stock heatshield on the exhaust manifold is going to make that big of a difference in intake temps.
It was on the noteworthy list from the dyno so I'm just simply repeating it. Also my UR uppipe has no coating or wrap either so just simply thoughts at this point.
You throw a little heat shielding on the piping in that area to find out. My guess is big compressor wheel in a little housing, as far as the high temps go. What kind of boost were you at? I don't think you should be hitting over 110 degrees.
Pete, I really wish you had a standalone and could show me a log of all relevant channels. Not saying Ronnie doesn't know what he's doing, I'm just really curious.
Yeah, 350 is a bit low for that turbo, but the low numbers are probably due to the low boost and could be hurt by high ambient temps during the tune. Pete, can you post a full mod list for us?
Element GT65/3" Inlet Perrin 816cc w Walbro and stock rails GS P/P Stock Exhaust Manifold/Invidia v3 DP/UR Up w 38mm ewg plumbed into DP GS TGV Deletes Perrin Big MAF DTEC Boost Controller Cobb AP but due to connection issues tune was through Open ECU
Well, after a little more reading, I'd say your numbers are right in the ballpark. Element Tuning put down around 430 WHP on pump at 23 PSI on a dynojet. At 18 PSI on a Mustang, 350 seems quite reasonable. The thing may take a little more boost on pump, but not a ton more, and this would be a hard thing to say for sure without actually tuning the car. Looks like that turbo needs some meth or race gas to really come alive .
I got a peak at Pete's dyno graph. It was very smooth and the car drove quite nice other than a somewhat crappy idle. Once the boost gets cranked up another 10 psi, the thing will really haul the mail.
Ok so round 2 at the dyno about 380hp/370tq. It was a little higher but Ron was getting some knock so he scaled it back a little for the skreets.
Still pump. Ron called me and said he wished I sent it over with some race gas cuz there was a lot more still there.
im hitting 20psi on 91oct with a stock jdm sti twin scroll. Hows the tuning going? Anyone reccomend a good dyno? im basing my numbers off the air-boys spread sheet.
Iat The issue I was having was from the heat coming up from the exhaust and sucking into the intake. Temps would climb up from 90s to 130s during a pull. I knew it wasn't the heat from the turbo. Maf powered cars read intake air temps before the turbo. And the only way for the intake temp to climb up this fast is from a heat source. It gets harder to tune when temps climb up like this because it gets into the compensation table for higher iat( drop timing/ add fuel). There really should be a shield between the uppipe and maf pipe/filter on every subaru.
If it's sucking in hot air, it wouldn't change the temp regadless of where you install the maf or iat for speed density. Instead just make sure the intake pipe is not heated by any outside source like coolant lines from the reservoir attached to the airbox, heat from uppipe going up towards the intake pipe, hear from the radiator. to keep the temps constant, I placed another fan blowing hot air away from the intake pipe. This usually isn't an issue but on this car it was.
