how to change your oil?

Well I think its time for me to learn. It is time for my to change my oil but instead of going to a dealership and having them do it I wish to learn how so that I can start saving myself some money. Basically I am looking for someone who has a garage and can help me do this. I have no idea what to get or where to start so if someone could give me a list that would be greatly appreciated. A dinner is being offered for anyone who is willing to teach me how

 

Well, if you can wait until the end of July (that's when I move into my new house) I'll show you how.

 

I'm changing my soon. Maybe next Sunday. I live in BC MN. I can show you if you like;

Yia

 

A proper oil change is easy to do but just time consuming. Invest in a good set of tools (my Craftsman tools were under $50), and you can do most of your maintenance with it.

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by MNAutomatic

Well I think its time for me to learn. It is time for my to change my oil but instead of going to a dealership and having them do it I wish to learn how so that I can start saving myself some money. Basically I am looking for someone who has a garage and can help me do this. I have no idea what to get or where to start so if someone could give me a list that would be greatly appreciated. A dinner is being offered for anyone who is willing to teach me how
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Buy a drain pan, 5 quarts of oil, and the filter of your choice. Look under car and see if the oil pan is easily accessible. If not jack up car and remove anything in your way (skid plate?)

Apply stocket and wrench to drain plug in bottom of oil pan. Drain into catch pan and wait for it to stop pouring. Replace drain plug before you forget Remove oil filter (have catch pan close as it's full of oil) and pour out into catch pan.

"Prime" the new oil filter by pouring fresh oil into the filter. Let it soak up and add repeat untill it is pretty much full. This will ensure oil pressure as soon as you start the engine. Replace filter onto engine.

Wipe your hands off and start the car

Now where's muh dinner?! haha

 

Just to add a few details to the earlier post...the drain plug is 17mm, unless you have the factory gauge pack with the oil temp sender in the drain plug, in which case it's a big socket (maybe 27mm?). Remove the oil filler cap so it will drain faster, also you can slightly jack up the driver's side to tilt the car for faster draining.

No matter how many people insist that you can reuse the crush washer, don't do that unless it's an emergency. It is cheap insurance and they are meant to be used once and then discarded. The flat side of the washer goes against the drain bolt, the rounded side goes against the pan. Torque spec on the drain bolt is 33 ft-lbs, but I usually torque it down more (to about 40), because it leaks if I only do 33.

When removing the filter, don't take it all the way off at once. It will drip quite a bit once you loosen it part way, just let it sit there until it stops overflowing into the pan. Then remove it the rest of the way. Oil capacity is 4.8 qts.

Once you get used to doing this, it's about a 30 minute job (much of that time waiting for draining to finish). Piece of cake...glad to see someone else is going the DIY route.

 

There's supposed to be a washer on the drain plug?

 

If only I understood half of those directions. I got no tools and no jacks or stands for me to put my car on and I dont think it is high enoug for me slide under. I am pretty much willing to drive to about anywhere reasonable so that someone can do it to my car and show me how so that next time I can buy the tools and do it. Once again who wants to have me over for a little show on how to do it.

 

If you have a stock suspension, there is no need to raise the car to do this. But if you're lowered, then jacking may be your only option.

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by MNAutomatic

If only I understood half of those directions. I got no tools and no jacks or stands for me to put my car on and I dont think it is high enoug for me slide under. I am pretty much willing to drive to about anywhere reasonable so that someone can do it to my car and show me how so that next time I can buy the tools and do it. Once again who wants to have me over for a little show on how to do it.
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Come on over !_!

Email me your phone number and we'll talk

[email protected]

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by bikerboy

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by RallyNavvie

There's supposed to be a washer on the drain plug?
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What apple cart did you fall off from?

You have a turbo 2.5 rs and you dont know it has a gasket on the drain plug?


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I don't have a gasket on the drain plug and I've never had a leak. In fact I've never had to add oil between changes so maybe that's a better way to go than having a gasket in there in the first place

If there is such a gasket on there then I've never really noticed it. Thus it hasn't been changed ever :shrug:

 

its actually a crush washer.

 

You guyz crak me up

No here's my question to add to this topic: I always find it difficult to get a fair reading of my oil level regardless of wheather the engine is warm or cold. I do get a good reading right after a oil change but not after a month or so after. It must be a Horizontal engine thang. hehehehe It strange cuz when I do the oil change I still get a fair amount of used oil, so its not like it has leak out anywhere.

Whats everyones tips on this? I never had any issues with Vertical engines.

C

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by RallyNavvie

I don't have a gasket on the drain plug and I've never had a leak. In fact I've never had to add oil between changes so maybe that's a better way to go than having a gasket in there in the first place

If there is such a gasket on there then I've never really noticed it. Thus it hasn't been changed ever :shrug:
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I always reuse the same one. Using a new crush washer isnt that important. The washer is to hold pressure and not leak, correct? If my old washer does not leak when I reinstall it for the 200th time; what does it matter that it's an old one?

Washers are tough! If the thing leaks, then by all means, replace it. Just replacing becuase you removed it and it never leaked in the first place is unecessary.

 

LOL, like I said, there's always one guy in every crowd who reuses them.

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">You guyz crak me up

No here's my question to add to this topic: I always find it difficult to get a fair reading of my oil level regardless of wheather the engine is warm or cold. I do get a good reading right after a oil change but not after a month or so after. It must be a Horizontal engine thang. hehehehe It strange cuz when I do the oil change I still get a fair amount of used oil, so its not like it has leak out anywhere<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


I know what you mean! I'll think I'm burning or leaking oil and when I go to change it, there's sometimes more than enough in there!

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Mushashi

You guyz crak me up

No here's my question to add to this topic: I always find it difficult to get a fair reading of my oil level regardless of wheather the engine is warm or cold. I do get a good reading right after a oil change but not after a month or so after. It must be a Horizontal engine thang. hehehehe It strange cuz when I do the oil change I still get a fair amount of used oil, so its not like it has leak out anywhere.

Whats everyones tips on this? I never had any issues with Vertical engines.

C
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Sometimes when I check the dip-stick, it is empty:roll:. After a few drives, it is back to full:roll:. How come there is no oil on the dip-stick when theres oil in the engine?? Not a big prob, just scares me sometimes

 

Hey morgan thanks for the PM and I got a question for you, think we could do it either tomorrow or the next day cause I am going on surprise road trip this weekend to go down and see my girl. I would like to have it done before then as I am already about 150-200 miles over and I am not sure as to how far I can go over. I should probably say that I am going to chicago so is it cool to drive there and back on an already expiring oil change? Some advice would be appreciated

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by MNAutomatic

Hey morgan thanks for the PM and I got a question for you, think we could do it either tomorrow or the next day cause I am going on surprise road trip this weekend to go down and see my girl. I would like to have it done before then as I am already about 150-200 miles over and I am not sure as to how far I can go over. I should probably say that I am going to chicago so is it cool to drive there and back on an already expiring oil change? Some advice would be appreciated
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All that for a girl.........you are very commited my brotha
Sure you can always drive over the 3k mark, they just recommend you change it becuase it'll be better; just don't do high RPMS and your be fine for another 1-2k

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by MNAutomatic

Hey morgan thanks for the PM and I got a question for you, think we could do it either tomorrow or the next day cause I am going on surprise road trip this weekend to go down and see my girl. I would like to have it done before then as I am already about 150-200 miles over and I am not sure as to how far I can go over. I should probably say that I am going to chicago so is it cool to drive there and back on an already expiring oil change? Some advice would be appreciated
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We could do it tonight. I emailed you my work number, gimme a call. I'll be here till 7PM.

 

Yeah it is a drive but she is worth it. I really like her but who knows what could happen in another year. dont think its gonna happen. I am just gonna have to watch my driving on it but if something starts happening I am sure I could find a suby down in chicago to take care of me.

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by MNAutomatic

Yeah it is a drive but she is worth it. I really like her but who knows what could happen in another year. dont think its gonna happen. I am just gonna have to watch my driving on it but if something starts happening I am sure I could find a suby down in chicago to take care of me.
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Are you already on the road or something? If you have not left yet, an oil chnage seriously takes 20 minutes Give me a call any time, I can pretty much leave any time after 5:00.

If you really dont have the time to do it before you go dont worry about it one bit. Your car isnt gonna blow up or even run the slightest bit different. I bet your owners manual says to not even change it till 5,000 miles under 'normal' conditions. My new KIA says I dont even have to change the oil till 7,000 miles. Modern engines and lubricant formulas have really changed the way cars work.

Good luck and ttyl

 

Hey morgan i'm back, you still up for having a student? Post up what I need to buy for this and once I got them lets set up a time. Thanks in advance

 

1. 5 quarts of 5W-30 oil
2. oil filter from the stealership, or a Purolator PL14460 (if from auto parts store)
3. crush washer

if you are a cheapskate, skip #3

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Zola

1. 5 quarts of 5W-30 oil
2. oil filter from the stealership, or a Purolator PL14460 (if from auto parts store)
3. crush washer

if you are a cheapskate, skip #3



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Please change #3 to brawts and beans

We can do it as early as tonight if you would like; how about you email me your phone # and I'll call you. morganm @ mnchopshop.org

Peace

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Zola

1. 5 quarts of 5W-30 oil
2. oil filter from the stealership, or a Purolator PL14460 (if from auto parts store)
3. crush washer

if you are a cheapskate, skip #3


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Since we are on the topic of oil, what is everyone using?

<---

Amsoil ASL 5w-30
Amsoil SDF20 filter
OEM crush washer

I also am going to follow a 5000 mile change interval (first two changes were with dino oil, and just switched to synthetic with 7k on the clock). From what I've gathered a 5k interval is almost considered overkill on Amsoil, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

Mobile 1 5W-30
NAPA Gold filter
no washer )

 

5qt Kendall 20w-50
1 Double guard Fram Oil filter
No Crush Washer

hehehehe

 

Mobil 1 5w30
OEM oil filter
Fumoto Valve(got sick of dealing with crush washers)

 

Amsoil 5w-30 (100% synthetic)
SDF 36 oil filter (super-sized)
OEM crush washer

I am not punctual with my oil changes. Anywhere between 4000-8000 miles I do my changes of oil and filter. My Amsoil dealer also said that I should wait to change my oil, but I should change the filter every 3000-4000 miles.

 

Amsoil 5w-30 Synthetic
Subaru Stock OEM STi Oil Filter
OEM Crush Washer

 

MNAutomatic:

I'm a pretty busy guy; so the longer you put off caling me the quicker I forget

Call or reply to any of the emails I've sent if you are seriouse. I wanna help but you are kinda slacking here !_!

Peace.

 

Sorry about that morgan, I have kinda gotten swamped lately with things to do. I think we better just pass this time around and wait for the next one. Guess ima just have to fork out another 30 bucks. It aint all that bad I guess, I will learn eventually

 

Ok, so A is the oil filter, B is the oil pan drain plug... RIght?

The Legacy is coming up on 1500 miles, that's when the first oil change is due, atleast that's what Jacek @ Morries Subaru told me.

I'm planning on doing it myself. I know how to change oil but I've never done it on a Subie. Anybody know what the torque spec. is on the drain plug? 40+ ft.lbs I've heard previously in this thread sounds kinda excessive. I was thinking more like 22ft.lbs.

Also, this oil filter. Is that normal? It's TINY! Anybody know how much a Subaru oil filter costs? I'm thinking of putting an Audi oil filter on it. The Audi filter, made by Mahle, is about 2x the size and weighs more than a similar size Fram or whatever.

 

Dayam, that's such a sexy picture.

Oil drain bolt = ~33 ft/lb
Oil filter = hand tight and back off a millimeter or two. (remember to grease the rubber ring on the filter before it goes on)

 

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by TabulaRasa

Also, this oil filter. Is that normal? It's TINY! Anybody know how much a Subaru oil filter costs?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Yep, normal. Stealership will probably charge about $8 for one.

 

Hey guys, I just changed my oil today for the first time myself (second cycle overall). I gotta say, this is much more difficult than the Toyotas I've owned...I haven't made such a mess in a long time.

1) I replaced the drain plug with a Fumoto valve. Anybody have experience with these? It's a ball valve on a lever so you can flip open the pan hole easily but it won't open on the road. It's been qualified by Subaru as replacement equipment apparently.

2) The dude at the parts counter was cool and all, but I'm curious... He said they redesigned the WRX 2.0L oil filter to be smaller for clearance from the heat shield. It's much shorter and smaller in diameter compared to the filter that was already on there. Is that ok? I'm wondering if that compromises filtering area, filtering capacity, and oil pressure. I actually wanted a Pure One, but PepBoys didn't have em (special order??)

3) I went synthetic Mobil-1 for now. Maybe Amsoil in the future.

 

I know what you mean about Pep Boys and Pure One filters. They plain and simple don't carry them, I ended up getting some from the Checker/Schuck's/Kragen website...http://www.partsamerica.com

 

Just make sure you don't confuse the tranny and oil pan plugs. For someone new to this, it could be pretty easy to do. As for the washers, I have never replaced them on the subaru's that I have owned. No problems so far with leaks.

 

r32657 Welcome!

How about an introduction!

C