I need to pick the brain of someone who can help me figure out a few things for my Forester in terms of driveline and suspension, I only have a few questions but there is almost no information on it anywhere since I am only aware of one other person doing this ever (very successfully though). I am pretty positive that Forester XT axles (SG5/9) are the same length as WRX axles off of a GD chassis. Are there shorter axles available that will bolt in to an R160 rear differential and 5x100 hubs? And are they similar in strength to the XT/WRX axles? Control arms/Lateral links, aside from adjustable lateral links, are there shorter options available? Fairly certain STI lateral links are a bit shorter but again, I'm not 100%. Lateral links are less of an issue since I can find adjustable ones elsewhere. Control arms as well, is there a shorter option than the Forester or WRX control arms? Basically I am looking to move my entire wheel hub closer to the differential, I know it is possible with mix and match parts, but I am just trying to fit the puzzle pieces together now. I'll be doing some measuring and referencing of parts numbers tonight.
I think that the GD rear axles may be the shortest ones in length that Subaru offered from the factory for that era. There shouldn't be a difference between sedan or wagon, and that was the narrowest car they had IIRC. I'm thinking you may be going the custom route or having to mix and match stuff.
You are probably going to have to do a custom setup. STI lateral links are the same as the Fozzy. The WRX's might be shorter. I am not sure what your reasoning is, but functionally it will be more difficult than its worth. If you are trying to move the hub surface closer to the center of the car, the Strut assembly is going to be the sticking point. Unless you change the geometry of the strut or move the top mount inbound on the vehicle, you will just create positive camber by going shorter lateral links.
I know I can mix and match most of it, minus actual suspension components like coilovers/camber plates. Possibly lateral links as well that's another road block. I know it's going to be a lot more expensive than it should be, but I have my reasons and I'm pretty dead set on it for more than just it's face value. I'm not looking to move it more than 1" at the most, I've done enough research to know that with camber plates I can clear the strut and move the hub and still run about 1.5 degrees negative camber which is all I want. I just need to figure out part numbers at this point.
I assume you are trying to fit wider wheels but again without knowing your intentions, its hard to give any serious advice. Based on the way you have phrased things, I question your understanding how this change will impact your handling dynamics. With that, I will say this... Adjustable Control Arms + Adjustable Lateral Links + Adjustable Trailing Arms + Coilovers with Camber Plates. Good ****ing luck...
It's going to completely change the handling dynamics, I'm not that naive. This wouldn't even be in the same ball park as just getting coilovers, some 18x9's with 255's and properly adjusting it all. I drive a Forester, it's far from a race car and I don't treat it like one despite the fact that many do. And yeah, wide wheels, low offset without retarded stretch and camber.
You're going to need special coilovers as well, probably ones that are "upside down L" shaped, as normal ones are going to 100% certainly make contact with your tires. Or you will need to cut the rear upper strut mounts off and move them towards the centerline of the car as much as you moved the hub inward.
I already have coilovers, they are not the issue. I am basically just looking for shorter parts, that's all I need. I'm not trying to move this 5", just barely an inch with what I assume will be Impreza parts.
Can you elaborate on what your goal is with this? Are you just trying to move your hubs inward to make room for low offset wheels?
Here is the deal, you are asking people for advice on changing the suspension dynamics but you wont say WHY. There are physical limitations in the wheel well and generally it has nothing to do with the Axles or the Lateral Links. No one is going to take you seriously if you don't bother to listen to advice or at least state intentions...
I posted why, I want to fit wider wheels with lower offset. I am listening to advice but what I'm asking is being blown out of proportion.
And you also mentioned negative camber. BY moving the hub inward, you are reducing the angle of the coilover, you are also lowering it with the coilover, which will make this reduction more pronounced. And then you are going to angle the hub inward. pushing the top of the tire in towards the coilover that is already at a reduced angle. I'm hoping you have math and geometry drawn up for this, because I have a feeling you're going to spend a ton of time and money on something that is going to screw up the rear of the car.
Moving the hub inward will give me quite a bit more positive camber, which is a problem. By moving the hub inward I do realize that the coilover angle will change and it will be closer to the tire, and even closer if I want some negative camber, but I am aware that this is completely possible which is why I am asking. I'm just in the early stages of this but I know it is possible.
The other Forester with this setup went from this: To this: So I am well aware that it is possible, I just got in contact with this guy too and I've asked him essentially the same questions.
Your questionable grammar made it sound like you weren't trying to do that... There is a slew of information of running wide wheels and tires on the SG9 chassis on the forester forum. They will all have direct experience. See link...http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f74/aggressive-wheel-foresters-merged-thread-45681/ Almost everyone who has gone that wide has stretched the rear quarter panels. If he has done it, why wouldn't you just ask him for his parts information?
Your apparent solution would require something along these lines to be even remotely close to kinda sorta normal suspension geometry
I was hoping to spark some good discussion that I could learn from instead of getting spoonfed by the other guy who has done it.
By the time/cost you get all that sorted out to move them inwards, would you have been better off cutting the fenders and installing flares and/or widebody kit?
That would be about 10x easier and probably much cheaper, but money isn't really a problem and I don't want flares.
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f72/tire-size-wheel-size-offset-etc-log-will-fit-11836/ http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f72/245-club-52582/
I have literally read every page of that thread. There is no information on this. Same with the 245+ club. That's no fun.
What you should do is just buy a car that is designed to handle the tires you want. If you are streeting the Forester (ie not track events on a regular basis), go with 245s. 255s give you no advantage. I decided to run 235s so I didn't have to **** with my suspension and they handle well. Function OVER Form IMHO. You are much better off going with a sticky 245 with the correct suspension geometry over a 255 with mangled geometry.
I am far too attached to my forester to sell it. I love everything about it (minus the 5 speed). I'm well aware of the magnitude of this, and the ways around it. I asked for information not everyone's opinion.
Should have known better on this forum. You'll need bent trailing arms for the rears, might as well go with a completely adjustable setup. Good luck!
This. I don't like stretch. I just picked up some wheels that are 10" wide with 225's and it looks like ass.
