I'm looking at a 2001 Outback 3.0 H6 LL Bean Edition as a possible replacement for my 1998. I'm not so familiar with the H6 engines and am wondering if anyone has any insight on them such as known mechanical issues, actual mpg versus four cylinder, etc. I know 2001 was the first year of this engine, which is what makes me slightly nervous. I also know that premium fuel is "recommended" and that the H6 was significantly updated in the 2005 and later model years. Any experiences positive or negative would be helpful.
The EZ30 is based off of the EJ20 (loosely). As far as I know, there are no big issues with this engine. I am sure someone will chime in with more experience.
In my (limited) experience, the motor itself is very reliable. Some documented timing chain issues but I suspect those have more to do with service history and general overall maintenance. They also came packaged in soccer mom models that generally keep the brotards away. Personally, assuming the service history is reasonable and it's an overall good condition car, I don't worry about the 1.8, 2.2, 3.0, and 3.3 motors holding up to normal duty. For the 3.0 motored cars (new or old head design), I wouldn't hesitate to drive one as a year round beater if a deal popped up.
I have an '04 VDC that I bought with crash damage in the front last summer, and I'm fixing up to serve as my fiances daily driver: I've done quite a bit of research over the last few years (I've been seriously looking for one for about a year and a half), and here's what I've found out. They're a fabulous motor. As long as oil changes are done regularly, they can long outlast the chassis.... They have been known to have some timing chain issues, but every one I know of had considerable lack of maintenance. Valve covers seem to leak, spark plugs are a pain to get off (pro-tip. Spark plugs are much easier once the valve covers are off....do them at the same time). Serpentine belt tensioner and idler pulleys seem to have a habit of failing catastrophically with little or no warning. FYI, the pullies are the same (although aftermarket sources do not list a pulley by itself for the tensioner). The bearing can be pressed out of the OE pulley and replaced. Timken 203FF is a direct fit, and was $6.59 at AutoZone just a few weeks ago when I bought mine. Due to the exhaust routing, the transmission has a remote filter mounted in the fenderwell under the battery. It's a little extra complexity, and I've heard of fluid leaks at the filter housing. But not terribly common. Also a good idea to add an auxiliary transmission cooler. The ECU can safely adjust timing for down to 87 Octane, but fuel mileage will suffer, and it will have a harder time starting in the winter. I plan to use 91 octane unless we're on the highway with a light load.
I don't think exhaust location has anything to do with trans filter placement. All of the 5EAT's have the filter in the fender as far as I know. The 5EAT's came on the GT's, XT's and H6 cars. 4EAT's have the filter on the side of the trans. The valve covers and timing chain covers will leak. If the oil wasn't changed regularly, expect timing chain problems. The early 3.0s guzzle fuel. I've seen people recording mid teens with mixed driving, worse if the engines running poorly. They eat fuel pumps. No idea why. I've never seen the pump in a 2.2/2.5 legacy fail, but I've done a handful on H6 cars. Luckily they are easy to do, just pop the rear seat. Other then that, they seem solid.
I guess the reason for the filter relocation is speculation. But the 3.0s do have a cat right under where the filter would be....I just assumed it was due to the extra heat and/or accessibility, as otherwise the transmissions are identical (well...except the center diff in the VDC models...). I don't think I've ever heard of a fuel pump failing on one (any more than any other car). Could be true, you've worked on more than I have for sure, but reminds me of another issue to look out for. The BE/BHs (that body style, regardless of engine) do have an issue with the fuel pump module. There's a metal cap on the bottom of it that occasionally cracks, and a large o-ring that frequently deforms. Either of these scenarios causes low fuel pressure (pressurized fuel leaking back into the tank). If the cap is broken, replace it. There's a part number (check on www.subaruoutback.org , it's a common discussion...) for a "kit" that comes with that cap, and a new strainer from the dealer that's not terribly expensive. And if it's the seal, the commonly accepted fix is to replace it with a Viton O-ring, which theoretically will be less susceptible to deforming with todays ethanol fuels than the OE rubber one.
Thanks for the info. guys. Unfortunately, the car I was looking at sold before I could make a move on it, but maybe another one will come along. From what I'm reading, I think I'll be sticking with an EJ25 unless a spectacular car with an H6 comes along.
I've personally replaced 3 pumps on H6s, which doesn't seem like a lot, but I'll put it into context this way. I've only worked on 10 or 15 H6s in my career, compared to 500-1000 (I've honestly lost count) 1.8/2.0/2.2/2.5 subaru's. 3 pumps on H6s comes out to 20/30%. Put plenty of pumps in WRX's, but only to upgrade. It's just an odd foible. Eric and I wondered about it last time an H6 came in for a fuel pump. We even cross checked part numbers. The H6's have a different part number for the pump over any other engine option. Why the turbo spec pump wouldn't be good enough, nobody knows. I have seen a few of the modules fail, but it's usually accompanied by nasty fuel smell.
How many of those (H6 or otherwise) were BE/BHs? Do you usually just replace the pump, or the whole module? I looked at the specs at work today. The Airtex pump for the '03 Outback H6 is rated for a max of 85 psi, whereas the '03 EJs are only rated for 70. Maybe the extra pressure demand is why they fail more often... Don't be scared off. The EZ30s have issues with oil leaks and serpentine belts, the EJ251s have issues with rod knock, piston slap, and headgasket failure. I specifically looked for this H6 car, as the chances of it making 250-300k miles without needing to be rebuilt/replaced is exponentially better. My fiance's 2.5 '03 Outback already has some nasty piston slap, and it only has 130k on it. I would never buy an EJ251 car for more than 1/2 it's book value.
The ratio of BE/BH cars coming through the door is roughly equal to what's on the road. All the H6's were early 2000's. It's just a percentage game. In reality I doubt they have a failure rate anywhere near as horrible as say a 90's - 00's GM truck. I just find it odd that an engine difference that doesn't theoretically require a large increase in fuel delivery requires a different pump, which turns out to have a significantly higher failure rate. I've just replaced the pumps, only because the sending units are outlandishly expensive. It's always an options for customers, but no one wants to put a $400+ fuel pump in. The 3.0's are a pretty solid power unit. I've just never been impressed with their power output or fuel economy. I wouldn't consider them any more or less reliable then any other subaru engine. You get out what you put in. Don't maintain it, and it won't last. What I really want to try is a high comp big plenum 3.6R in a GC wagon. Oh the noises it could make.
Huh. That is weird. Thanks for the input, I'm going to have to watch for that! And yea....and high compression 3.6 would be fantastic!
