knocking at 2500 RPM?

So yesterday I went to start up my 05 WRX and heard a slight knocking/rattle. I was concerned and listened very closely to the engine when I left the drive way I hear the same knocking/rattle when I hit about 2500-3000 rpm. I stoped and check the oil. The dipstick was dry!! It ends up taking about two quarts of oil.

I still have the same rattle at start up and at about 2500-3000 RPM when I hold down the clutch and shift. but nothing at idle. I have only driven about two miles since I heard the rattle. Didn’t notice a power loss but didn’t really test it ether. The vehicle starts and idles fine.

what do you guy think? Did I spin a rod Bearing?

 

2 Quarts low

 

I can only assume the worst, as every time I hear this story it ends the same.

 

Read This... http://mnsubaru.com/threads/diagnosing-a-rod-knock.37408/

It may help

 

Okay sounds like I have the start of a rod knock. I guess this means im going to need a new block?? this one has 180K on it. I have some mechic experence but i have never done anything this advanced. Any techs in the twin cities(north metro) out there that are willing to take a closer look at this on a side job?

 

Swing by Morries Subaru in Minnetonka i'm bored and willing to offer some advice

 

I really dont understand why folks cant check oil levels when they fill up......This could have been avoided SO easily.

 

So I found a new engine and I am currently re-installing it. Currently I cant seem to get the new engines motor mounts to sit in the slots in the cars frame. the engine is tight against the bell housing. seems like the entire transmission needs to slide back about 1/2 inch to drop in to slots, but nothing will budge. any advice?

 

You need to use a breaker bar, and lever it against the engine for it to slide into place. Happened to me when I installed group-n engine mounts.

From my post on SF.org

"Once both sides are done, you may notice that the single stud that goes through the crossmember/subframe, when dropped will not go through the slit! This is normal, and to solve this requires two people to (safely) do it. Get a breaker bar, and position it in a way that when the engine is lowered, you can shift the entire engine into place. The second person can man the bottle jack or engine lift, and very slowly lower the engine while you shift it.

The studs may go through the slits, but not go through all the way. Thread on the nuts as far as you can, then start the engine. It will fall the rest of the way (for me it was 1/8th of an inch that it still had to shift, and I couldn't get it to move anymore with my breaker bar). Torque down the bolts to 60 FT-lbs."

 

Thanks, I will give that a try now

 

nothing is budging. I cant really get a good lever on anything to pry. I think Im going to try to unbolt the turbo this may give me a little more play but I don't know.

 

Try putting the bar between the subframe and the engine, and shift that way.

 

um be sure to replace the oil cooler and get the heads thoroughly cleaned. little shaving bits all over.

 

So I ended up using a ratchet strap with one side on the bottom transmission and the other attached to the rear chaise and it pulled pack enough for me to wiggle the studs in place. work like a charm when I could actually get leverage.

So when i had the new engine out I decided to put a new clutch in. I am fairly confident that I installed the clutch, clutch fork and bearing properly. however once I had the engine in place and all of the bell housing bolts attached I decided to press on the clutch petal and it goes right to the floor with no spring back and hardly any resistance. what is going on? how do I fix this?