this does work, just would require you to use a battery and jumper cables or a jump pack and maybe a screw driver. kinda like starting an old ford with a bad starter solenoid. but a leak down test would still be better.
The starter idea should work. You need to turn it over 8 revolutions. Cold will be a little lower then if the engine was at operating temp. But it will give you a good idea where you are at. But in the end, if your numbers show a difference in cylinders, you still may need to do a leak down test to direct you toward the issue. And you will have a little slack in the belt at different times just like flstffxe said.
OK, I rigged the starter up to the engine and re-did the compression test on all the cylinders.... 3 cylinders showed 100 psi and the the front left cylinder showed 95 psi. That front left cylinder does make a little more valve noise when the you crank the engine over than the others. It basically makes a louder closing sound is what I think it is. I took video of three of the compression tests and they are in the process of uploading on YouTube. I will put a link up when they are ready. ~100 psi ???? cold engine, we did put 3 quarts of oil in the engine just to lubricate it a bit. What are the opinions on this???
considering you are in carharts I am guessing the garage is around 20-30 degrees. The engine being that cold the numbers don't surprise me, also depends on how many miles are on it(how worn out it is). I would say a car with more then 75k on the odo in that temp would be around 100psi. Also keep in mind that it has not been running in some time so there is minimal oil sealing the rings = a lower reading. as I said earlier a leak down test would give you more usable results. I would much rather know a cylinder has a 25% leak down then know it can reach 100psi on a compression test. A compression test is more for a check or verification of yes we got the compression you were aiming for when you built the engine. "Or" if you have a base line for that engine new you could track wear and tear on it. A leak down test done on that engine would revel how worn it really is. that cylinder that you got 95psi on could have a leak down of 50% or only 6%. Being that you have it on a stand and out of the car why not just pull the oil pan, seeing as you are looking for a knock not a lack of compression. feel the rods see if there is any with a bunch of slop, or pull the heads and look at the shape of the bore on the cylinders. Buy a gasket set and if there is nothing more wrong with it then a bad tensioner. you can put it back in knowing it has all new gaskets and she will be good to go for a while. if you find a problem/the problem fix it and you will already have the gasket set at hand. Just my train of thought on it. some time diagnostic steps/equipment are not a replacement for actual hands on feel of the parts.
Pulled the oil pan off last night... nothing. Still in the dark. Assuming I can put together a leak down tester quick, I am planning on doing a leak down test tomorrow night. If anyone is willing to come out to Elk River and take a look at my engine, the help would be GREATLY appreciated. Here is my contact... Thor (612) 501-8406 Give me a call or PM me if anyone is interested. Thanks for the help.
Cool, that's right by my house. Thanks for the heads up. Good deal for anyone else that is interested..... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94190 MAN! I did some more looking on their website... everything is ridiculously cheap. May be crappy stuff, but for one time use it all probably works. I payed 42 bucks for a compression tester yesterday... they have them as low as 7 bucks at Harbor... damn
Their stuff is cheap. In every sense. But sometimes that's all you need. Any pro who buys tools there is an idiot, but for something you'll use one a year or less? They're fine.
I tried out my brand new Harbor Freight cylinder leakage tester tonight and had a world of troubles with it. Did I use it wrong?? Is the tool giving me bad readings?? I took some video of what I was actually doing and posted it up on YouTube. It is taking a bit for the videos to load, but I will let you know when they are available. Basically, the two gauges on the tool doen't seem to be working right. I read 0% loss at only about 15psi. This guy in this link uses a "cheap" tool like mine and describes what is happening to me roughly... http://forum.specmiata.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=print_topic;f=44;t=001204 What to do????
Same issues with the sound and speed on this video... Please read the info about the video and you will get a better idea what is going on in the video. Let me know if you have any questions. I need help on this one too guys. What can MNSubar figure out from what I have provided???
What would happen if you took your thumb off the end in the second video? Would the % loss go up from zero? Is there a regulator on the compressor? I'm not sure if the guage on the compressor is showing the tank pressure at 100 or the regulated pressure at 100. Anyway, the videos sound find and are playing fine on my mac.
I didn't open any of your links, but one question. The hose you have going to the cylinder to pressurize it. Is it open? Or does it still have the valve in it? The little valve at the end needs to be screwed out so the compression tester can feed pressure and it gets feedback(in a sense).
That's interesting. I will have to have my pops check that out for me tomorrow. Thanks for the possible tip.
I was working on getting a new stud into my up pipe yesterday and took all the threads out of one of the holes in the turbo flange. So, I need a new up pipe.... Do you guys know of anything for sale? Seems like up pipes are always around.
There is this feature called search. More people should use it. I used it and found this: http://www.mnsubaru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21031&highlight=pipe Might work I don't know. Seriously - good luck.
I did a quick search on MNSubaru in the recent threads and I found two people selling stock uppipes for $20. That's a good deal, and would work well, but I am thinking about exploring an aftermarket pipe while I have the oppurtunity. Plus, while my engine is out, I am P&P'n everything and the uppipe is the last thing I have left. The stock uppipe looks like the worst one to try and get smooth. Plus plus, I have been grinding for way too long on these pieces and less grinding on an aftermarket uppipe is looking better and better. Thanks for the heads up. I agree with you on the search thing. Hopefully I didn't miss anything obvious in my search. I just hear about people having things laying around all the time and they are too lazy to post a for sale add.
wtf are you doing with a super 16g and the stock uppipe?!? Do yourself a favor and pick up a grimmspeed one.
^^^THIS! I have a stock one for sale, but wouldn't think of selling it to you with that set-up!:biggrin: Get a PnP'd, heat coated, Grimmspeed uppipe. Much better for your set-up me thinks.
My uppipe was gutted... I guess I had read something online that said a gutted uppipe was just as good as an aftermarket pipe. Hey, if the uppipe will be that much of an improvement, I am all for it. Never can completely believe in what you read on the internet....lesson learned.... again...... ....and maybe again.... BTW I did PM Justin to see what a decent setup would cost and I am in the process of P&P'n everything. That'd rock if I can get the car running again and be ahead of where I was at before. Tis the season... ha ha
Put the engine back in the car today! Everything went in real smooth and hopes were high.... Started right up..... Then.... CLANK CLANK CLANK CLUNK CLANK CLUNK!!!!!...... The sound isn't there all the time. I am stumped as to what it is now. It sounds like it is coming from the driver's right side of the engine. Everything seemed tight when the engine was out and I turned it over by hand. On one of our start-ups the sound disappeared for about 30 seconds and then came back. What the hell is this!?? Is anyone willing to come out to Elk River tomorrow and give it a listen? I took videos of the drama.... I will put links up to YouTube as soon as the videos become available. Merry late Christmas to me....
I am here watching. I would stop running the car and take it to someone. Sounds like some valve issues as well as rod knock. Were the valve clearences checked?
This is my thought as well. If it is just localized to the valves and the rotating assembaly(crank, rods, and pistons) you should still have a usable block. If it is a rod knock of some sort (rod bearing/wrist pin) they can let go pretty fast and you would kiss that usable block good by.
I wonder if the SHIM fell out........ If I had a spare Shortblock, I would put it in. IF I didn't have a spare shortblock, I would take apart the shortblock and look for worn bearings. When rod bearings go out, they don't ALWAYS come in the chunks and flakes. It may only be SMALL shavings that you can see when you shine a light on it. If I was in your position, I would have taken the heads off, and the shortblock apart. When you have ROD KNOCK, you can't hear some when you crank it. My '99 EJ22E got to the point where you CAN hear it by just cranking it. My EJ22T you can't hear it at all. BUT when I took the EJ22T apart, I saw worn rod bearings AND main bearings w/ flakes. The WRX shortblock that I have reveiled to have A LOT of shavings and flakes in the oil pan. DOUBLE D them heads!!!
So you think there is a good chance my head and the short block are messed up? Didn't check the valve clearances. I pulled off the valve cover and turned it over by hand watching it close. My friend's and my untrained eye didn't see anything that looked questionable at all. Next questions.... Is it worth me tearing downt he engine myself? Can I pull the engine and bring just the engine somewhere to get torn down and fixed? Should I just try and find a new engine to put in it?
I'd look for a running engine to swap in, but keep all your current parts until you can afford to rebuild them, giving you a fresh spare engine to keep on hand...
Ok, I saw quite a few real fine gold colored metal flakes in the oil pan when I took it off earlier. I didn't think anything of it (noob), until this afternoon reading online. A said he was 98% sure that he had a bad main bearing after seeing gold colored metal flakes in his oil. Did I miss the end all, tell all, signs of a shot bearing???
Most bearings in piston type engine are of a trimetal type construction. A steel backing with a copper layer then a layer of lead. The copper and lead are some times substituted with brass, bronze, beryllium copper.... and depending on the manufacture topped with what ever anti-wear coating they find fit. The gold flake you seen would be the copper layer that is now being stripped off the bearing. "Did I miss the end all, tell all, signs of a shot bearing???" Looks to be the case. Provided the bearing is a main bearing and hasn't spun yet the block should be still good. Regrind the crank if it is not to beat up. Maybe a set of rods if the bearing that failed is a rod bearing. If it were me I would pull it apart to see what you are looking at and how bad things really are. You would at least save your self the labor in disassembly at a shop. Pay attention to how the rods sit on the crank shaft(what side faces to the front), they should be assembled the same way. Also keep the rod caps with the rods they came off of. Just some quick things to look for.
I found the "random fluids" oil pan that I was using to clean out the oil pan. I took some pictures of the remaining metal flakes that were left in the pan. Take a look and let me know what you think. Thanks for all the help so far!
Well, even though that is bad, it at least gives me some direction. I am going to pull the engine tomorrow and strip it down to the block and heads. The plan is to bring that portion of my engine into a shop and let them tear it down and see what is really wrong. Thanks for the help guys. Sorry I missed the shavings ealier. Trial and error I guess.
Well, now that I am pretty sure I will have to at least replace the block.... do I go 2.5 or 2.0? How would a 16g EVO III work in a 2.5 hybrid? I am assuming it would limit my higher rpm power, but what would happen outside of that? The 16g spools at around 3.5k rpm in the 2.0 with power numbers around 260 tq and 290 whp. Now in the 2.5, quicker spool, higher torque, horsepwer? Also, is the 2.5 worth it if I'm not planning on upgrading my tranny right now? Also, how much money should I expect to pay for a used ej257 or ej205 shortblock? The prices seem to vary dramatically across the web, from 300 to 1800. Questions, questions, questions....
depends, new or used and which. personally i am not hopping on the 2.5 band wagon yet just because for less you can build a 2.0...but thats me i guess
I would pull yours apart first to see if the block is indeed toast. If it is look for some thing else if not consider it money saved(if $ is a matter, some guys don't care what is spent).
