A few people on the forum wanted to find out what I thought of the set up that I was going to install, so I thought I would put something together before things got too busy here at work. Feel free to ask me questions, but understand that I got this install completed at about 10:45 last night and have only taken the car to work. The install was pretty darn straight forward. I didn't need any "special" tools, but did have to make some. Of course if I were to do the job again, it would take me about 1/4 of the time, but after making the tools to hold the strut bolt, I was flying. I picked up a spring compressor tool from Car-co for $23.00 and had everything else for the install. I went with KYB GR-2 struts and a set of Prodrive springs. I was debating between the GR-2 and the AGX struts, and chose the GR-2 for a few reasons. First of all, the main use of my car is just to get from point A to point B. I don't autocross or track the car, and don't trust myself to hold back on the RallyCross course with a car that I'll need the next day to get too work. Although I practice some spirited but responsible driving and often hit "my dirt road" on the way home from work, I mainly stick to the streets. I didn't want to spend the extra money for adjustable damping and never use it. The KYB AGX struts were $415, and the GR-2's were $265.00 both at CVR Motorsports.com. As I was taking the GR-2's out of the box, I pressed down on the strut piston. It seemed to have about 10% or so more damping than the stock struts, but keep in mind that I am comparing it to a WELL used stock strut. They are described by the guy at CVR as "basically a stock replacement." The GR-2's have the same lifetime warranty as the AGX's. I went with the Prodrive springs at the recommendation of Dave (Scuba Steve). He told me that they provided a basically stock ride until they were pushed at which time they "turned on" or something to that affect. I wanted a stiffer spring when I needed one, but didn't want a kidney-busting ride - especially considering I drop my son off at daycare Monday-Wednesday. I didn't want a car that was slammed to the ground - I wasn't looking to change the geometry of the axels, and occasionally need the clearance of a stock spring height. The Prodrive springs advertise a drop of 20mm which is just about an inch. This sounded perfect, so Froggy sold me his set. They are now available in the states by the way- Prodrive USA in CA. Contact [email protected] - they are selling them for $262.36 (plus shipping) I have not had a chance to push the car around many corners but there is a rarely traveled, smooth right 90 in the back corner of our industrial park, so I took that this morning to test out the ride. Up to this point, the car rode very comfortably. It did feel "tighter" than it has before, but I assumed that was because I had one rear that was completely blown out and the rest of the suspension had close to 100K on it. Driving down the street, it has a minimal amount of body roll, but some was apparent - it didn't feel like an F1 car. I accelerated at the apex of the corner and was at full boost in 2nd gear. After the initial body roll, the roll stopped and the spring "turned on" as Dave told me it would. I exited the corner and let off of the accelerator and said "WOW." to myself. The car just stuck. I'm definitely not an expert, and this is the first performance type suspension that I have ever installed myself. I've driven a few cars that have been set up, but have never had the chance to compare the ride before and after. I am extremely happy with the way these parts change the ride of my car. I think it is a good balance between ride comfort and performance when needed. I plan on getting an alignment today and will post more once I really get a chance to experience the result.
Very Nice write up, those springs are called "Progressive Rate", this means they get stiffer as you push them. You made good choices in my opinion for your driving. This set up will also be good in winter driving. BTW what was the total cost of this setup? Mike
Is the highway ride? more firm or about the same as stock? I was thinking about getting somthing similiar like this for my car. NOW, i know what i want. THANKS A LOT for the review... and pics!
Total cost: $600 for parts GR-2's: $295.00 (including shiping) Prodrive Springs: $300.00 (including shipping) Spring compressor tool: $23.00 (Let me know if you want to borrow this, some places rent them) The highway ride felt just like stock. I don't think I felt anything different until I pushed it around a coner. For some reason, I always thought that a progressive spring had different size coils from the top of the spring to the bottom. (some coils are closer together, some are further apart) I guess not - these look "standard". Tools I used: Metric Sockets & Extentions Angle grinder to flatten out socket - so a vice grip could hold it. Metric Allen wrench Cordless Impact wrench One of those screwdrivers that you can swap out the tip - I used this to get extr leverage on the allen wrench. :biggthumpup: Jack & Jack Stand Bricks for blocking tires. Rubber mallet Screw drivers - to allign strut & knuckle holes. iPod & Docking statoin Here is some crap that I learned... - It is a lot easier to allign the strut and the knuckle if both sides of the car are jacked up. Without doing that, you're going to fight the sway bar and loose. - Taking out the back seat is a pain. - The top bolt on the front knuckle is the allignment bolt. The bolt is shaped like an oval. Mark the bolt with a scratch or a sharpie and try to re-allign it. -Althoug the cordless impact doesn't have mega torque, it is my favorite tool. -Angle griders ALWAYS come in handy. -Breaker bars and 1/2" sockets are worth their weight in gold.
You are correct Prodrives are not progressive rate springs, they are linear my mistake. You can have a spring with a higher linear rate and still have a good ride. The shocks make a big difference.
I definately will. Dave and Mike, thank you for you advice and help! It is GREATLY appreciated!!! -ted
would you mind if i ask for a ride in it sometime to see how she feels? i have prodrive springs too and my struts are shot too
Not at all, you know where I am. :biggrin: Stop by any time and we'll take it around the block(s). I am going to drop it off up at the Arboretum for an allignment here soon.
edit. How about we go for a spin, and you give me a ride back from the allignment place? But I want to get it up there before 10:30 so they can get to it today.
Thanks for writing that up! Very informative and similar to my driving habits, I'll def give this setup a close look if I decide to keep the ride.
I believe KYB makes your stock WRX (and STi) struts. GR2 would probably be an exact OEM replacement part for them. But you can usually find the GR2's cheaper than you will be able to pick up stock struts from the dealership
Small correction: old Prodrive WRX blue springs are linear. newer Prodrive WRX blue springs are 2-way progressive Prodrive STI red springs, old and new, are 3-way progressive. This info is from Prodrive's own mouth. It's the progressive design that offers both daily comfort and the allowance for a stiffer, sport ride. The progressive springs will have a little different wind to them, some coils being a little closer together than the rest. The KYB GR-2 struts are generally described as being 15% above stock dampening rates. Although adjustable struts aren't always needed, they are useful in the fact that they can be adjusted to fit any spring choice you may pick. There are several brand choices, and the end choice comes down to what you want for settings and dampening profile. However, the GR-2s are dirt cheap and very attractive for this...as well as their lifetime warranty.
How can one tell the difference between the old and the new blue WRX springs? Do they have different part numbers, or can you tell visually?
