no, right now it is probably over-powered for sno*drift so we have not attempted to make any additional increases
wow, I just finished reading this whole thread, that took a lot longer than I expected, it's awesome though, looked like fun and a lot of work.
Beastie Boys? I'd expect a more generation appropriate soundtrack for Dave. Like Mozart. Sweet vid tho. Is that what you've been working on over the holiday?
no more brake booster (it is actually easy to brake, it just takes some getting used to) relocated ecu and GEMS controller reinforcing the bracket that normally holds the ecu.
consistent brake pedal feel. since we do a ton of left foot braking the pedal feel will change depending on what the gas pedal is doing. subaru sells a booster delete for their group n cars
it's over $500 for the two parts you need from subaru. Ours is a Graham Evans Motors custom piece and cost far less than that
unless your doinging alot of breaking under throttle your not going to see a giant improvment on your daily driver... if anything it might make your car a bit dangerouse to drive if ever let someone else drive it
This. Plus, it's not a daily driver anymore. Autocross only now. too bad it's not class legal. :'( P.S. not only does it help with braking under various throttle, a technique commonly used in autocross as well for the same reasons (rotate car, keep boost up through elements), but it would also completely remove that fun feeling of the 2-Stage brake booster giving you an awesome linear pedal feel
Ah this is true... I havent been out to many AutoX events to see meet you... I normally play in the dirt but in that case... more power to you!
got tires? not pictured are another set of sno*drift tires plus sno*drift spares and another full set of wheels/tires I'm buying off Dan rally rally rally!
How long until you invest in a hydraulic mounter? With that many tires I feel like it would come in handy
you need a pretty expensive tire machine to do rally tires. One of our sponsors does the tires for us
Just got back from helping Carl do some work on the car from after 100AW. Things are going well so far I think. We were able to locate the fire issue and it was very anti-climatic. Here are some pictures: The very intricate and complex pressure testing setup for the exhaust manifold. This was made mostly out of a shop vac and duct tape. View attachment 20755 The slightly abused rear diff protector. FYI: this is a 3/16" steel protector. View attachment 20756 The 1mm hole in the manifold. Its kind of hard to see since its on the edge of the shadow on the weld seam. View attachment 20757
this was hilarious...lots of fun..gotta love duct tape its right up there with zip ties solving all the worlds problems.
did you rip that diff protector off and it bent back like that? wtf happened and how is the diff still there? Edit: Just wire brush around the hole in the header and AL tape. good to go, saved the cost of the part for ZRT
That is the shape it was when it came off the car. When they came into the first service on Sat at 100AW, one of the front support bolts for the protector had come unwelded. Best guess is that a decent collision (noticeable on the front of the protector) ripped the other front support bolt loose and peeled the plate under the car. There is a dent in the spare tire well from where it impacted. I am sure Carl will explain more when he does his 100AW write up. He will probably have some more pics to include.
the hole in the header is very small, there might be more cracks in between the pipes at the collector we can't see but the one we can is quite small. It probably expands a bit when the header is up to temperature - it's directly before the o2 though so it probably just started to misread and dumped more and more gas until things caught on fire. There was a fair amount of gas in the engine oil, hopefully things are ok as it was only run for part of 1 stage with it full rich. one plug was a bit damper than the others, we might have also had that injector sticking (I think it was cylinder 4). (problem might be two-fold, during transit the o2 probably started telling the ecu to start dumping gas and then an injector stuck) rear diff guard broke one of the front bolts on a really rough stage before saturday service 1. the second bolt must have been damaged and broke on another stage. We just left the guard hanging down as we couldn't get to it easily - it eventually caught the ground and flipped all the way back. I'm going to put new plugs in, a non-leaking manifold, a new front o2 sensor, change the oil and see what happens when we start it up - hopefully have that done tomorrow or friday
kudos to that diff protector. that damn thing took a bunch of abuse....we couldn't believe it was still there after stage 11 as it was hanging forward and real close to the ground at the stage start. lol
ok so we made a bunch of progress the past week or so. The over-fueling was found to be due to a partially failing map sensor. We tested it with one off another sti and then bought a new one and drove the car for an extended period of time with no issues. A leakdown compression test showed all cylinders were ok (about 4%). While we were doing our troubleshooting we also replaced the manifold with an HKS knock-off, put on an invidia up-pipe (old stuff was maddad), replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAF, replaced the plugs, and changed the oil twice. Here is a pic of the fan that caught on fire at 100AW New manifold and up-pipe after being sprayed with high temp coating I also picked up a new cat to replace our old one. The old one was a random tech 3" highflow. The new one is a random tech 3" race high flow which is considerably better. Martin and I helped Whisker's adjust the exhaust system by removing the flange at the downpipe to midpipe and by adding the new cat - we put this one farther under the car and got rid of the rear muffler section. The next step was to pull the allwheelsdriven coilovers off to rebuild and to put the dspecs back on so I could move the car as needed. Thanks for the help Martin and Dan! We also began to put the car on a diet. The rear doors were gutted and lexan windows were fabricated. We saved 28 pounds per door doing this. full door gutted door I traced the windows on to cardboard and then from the cardboard to the lexan The lexan windows don't quite fit right in straight form. The require thermal forming to get them to fit. after forming we also put in air vents evo style next up, re-tune, lightweight bumper beams, new skidplates and more weight reduction! At least another 50lbs in the works.
I'm slowly working on fixing mine. I hammered it back into the proper shape and test fit it. Now I just need to re-make the front mounts on the car for it. I have an extra primitive rear diff plate too actually - thanks for the offer though!
Good times! There has been much progress since 100AW. I will be very intersted to see how much can be done before Nemadji 1
