Got it all installed and tuned at NF a couple weeks ago but have been out of town until now. The o-rings on the injectors kept leaking so it was a late night but it was fun hanging out with the NF guys! Here are the power mods so far: -Cobb TBE (6 months ago) -Cobb AP (6 months ago) -Kinugawa TD06-SL2 20G with billet wheel and 8cm^2 hotside -ID1000's -Walbro 255 fp -GS EBCS -TurboXS TMIC That is it for power but I will probably be needing a 6-speed (or PPG/PAR 5-speed) and a built shortblock sooner than later... :/ No dyno sheet yet but until I get a proper setup I'm not too concerned with the numbers, it puts a huge smile on my face and thats all that matters. Thanks to everyone at NF and Nuke for the tune!
Thanks! I haven't gotten to drive it too much yet so don't know exactly but it pulls really hard and I can hear the wastegate around 4k rpms. A little more lag than the TD04 but not bad and I actually like it a lot better for daily driving. The stock turbo was always spooling even if I didn't really want it and then it would take a **** after 5k rpms. Now it feels more NA when I am driving normally but pulls like crazy when I want it and goes all the way to redline! I am only at like 19psi peak boost now because pretty much everything is stock and I don't really want to blow an engine until I get another DD. But the turbo with the billet wheel can be pushed way higher psi and still be efficient, plus I have the 1000cc injectors so I can go E85 whenever I want to. I still have a lot of room to grow.
Thanks! Haha Is that you in the white shirt? I don't really know anyone's usernames on here, I haven't ever posted before. I used to just go on Nasioc but I think I like it here better!
Thanks! I am really happy with it for now. I'm surprised I haven't seen you, what do you drive? I always try to wave at subies unless its obviously just a soccer mom
Thanks! I was torn between these and the Raijin but I am glad I chose these. And that is good to hear because I will probably be in the market for a solid motor before too long...I feel like the stocker is on borrowed time already.
Whoa been almost a year since I upgraded the turbo... If anyone cares about an update I am still on the stock block and going strong! (knock on wood) It now has: -2007 STI 6 speed (first one with long gears and last one with internal oil pump), driveshaft, and R180 (helical torsen LSD) -DSS 800hp rear conversion axles (R180 to my 5x100 hubs so I didn't have to change brakes or wheels) -Clutchmasters FX400 6 puck sprung clutch -DCCDpro (not actually wired up yet because Im lazy) -Tuned on E85 now @ 21-22psi (was tuned with stock MAP sensor so was maxed out) -Omni 4 bar MAP sensor now for future growth It has been on E85 for like 2500 miles now and its been 10k miles since the 20G was installed. I have been waiting/preparing for the engine to blow but it seems fine so far. I now have a new DD so its not a big deal if the engine goes. I am pretty sure I will get the engine built sooner or later but still debating what my plan is. I would love to go rotated with a 6266 or 35R but who knows...the TD06-20G is a nice street turbo without too much lag. With E85 it spools well before 4k rpms. I still haven't had it on a dyno so who knows what power it makes but it is fun as hell. Thanks NF for all the help!
Thanks! Bought it from rally innovations. I like it a lot but the powder coat that comes on it is real thin. Mine started rusting after last winter so I sanded and painted it but road debris is real abrasive down low there so I really need to get a good powder coat.
Nope! I actually never have checked compression or leak down But.... I don't have any idle or roughness issues. I monitor feedback knock pretty religiously and I check the oil after almost every beating and I'm not burning a significant amount of oil. I also regularly check to see if smoke is coming from the oil filler neck after driving and there are no outward signs of a cracked piston. That said, I am sure I could already have a hairline crack in a piston (which I am convinced a lot of subarus drive around with for a while before noticing any major symptoms) but I am not too worried at this point. It consistently puts up with more than I think a stock block should put up with and am prepared for the worst. I won't deny that if I were to take it to the track and give it WOT for 20 mins straight something would probably give.
Want to see what kind of crack caused compression to drop to 70 psi on cylinder 4 in my stock motor? So I doubt you have a cracked ringland and it sounds like you are rigorously monitoring the situation, and are prepared for the day. Thrash on
So did a few pulls tonight cuz I was curious what kind of power I am making. Feels nice and fun on the street but I think there is a little more in the turbo and my injectors aren't maxed out yet. E85 4th gear, 2 pulls back to back within a few minutes of each other. The red one was first.
Oh good to know! This was my first try at virtual dyno. I think I'll have Nuke tweak the tune a little bit and bump the power up when I have the time maybe next week. When it was tuned I was limited by the stock MAP sensor so I think there is more there now that I have the OMNI 4 bar.
Did you do this on you AP? I need to experiment with this as well, just because I'm curious. Anyone know how accurate the virtual dyno is?
Yeah did it with the AP and it can be relatively accurate if you do everything right. An accurate weight and tire height is very important as is doing the log on a completely flat and level stretch of road. If there is any incline it throws the numbers off a lot. Also the faster the datapoints are captured the better the accuracy so only log the necessary values otherwise the AP captures the data at a lower frequency. One last thing is its best to do in 3rd or 4th gear (of the sti 6 speed) otherwise the run is over so quick there isnt enough data to calculate anything at all. I did a few in 2nd gear just to see and it was worthless. It isn't the same as a real dyno by any means but if you can get pretty consistent lines over multiple runs like above then it is useful imo. Like a normal dyno I think the best use is to track gains made after a change in tune or added mod as long as you do it on the same stretch of road and at a similar ambient temp.
Here is a comparison to my stock 2011 335i sedan 6MT with just a Cobb stage 1 aggressive flash on 93 octane. It is an off the shelf map and you can see I need to tune out some throttle closures to make the boost smoother but I'm pretty happy with the result. These were a 3rd gear pull and a 4th gear pull back to back and it is really consistent. The small twinscroll turbo just craps out after like 5k rpm. Completely different feeling than the wrx because as you can see it is basically full torque from 2k rpm in 4th gear.
Your wish is my command! I actually realized I put my weight as 130 instead of 230 for the bmw so here they both are with the correct weights. The subaru feels a lot faster than it looks on the graph but that is probably because it keeps going up top better, flat torque curves are kinda boring. Also the final drive difference is huge (3.08 vs 3.9), the BMW has way taller gearing so really this 3rd gear vs 4th gear is pretty accurate. 2nd and 3rd gear in the subaru are most fun vs 1st and 2nd gear in the bmw are most fun on the street.
So flat, nice! I'd be curious to see how the numbers compare if both were on the same fuel. The BMW has two more cylinders and one more turbo...but that obviously doesn't mean more power. It does mean a flatter power curve though! On a side note, I need to stop looking at your guys' power graphs. It is making the mod bug bite!
Put some bolt on's on the BMW and see how it does. Supposedly they're fast. Derek ofspunk knows a lot about modding "BWM" cars. You could ask him.
Oh man its not even funny what the 335i's do with E85. The HPFP isn't big enough to go full E85 so the max you can mix is like E30/E40 but with that and a bigger intercooler you get torque mountain. Usually around 400-450 ft-lbs from 2500-4500 but maxes out at like 370-380 hp because the turbo is too small to flow up top.
Yeah with bolt ons they make cheap and easy power up to right about 400whp. After that and it is extremely expensive to go higher. The stock frame turbo and fueling become the limitation. The turbo is integrated into the manifold so you can't just bolt on a bigger one like subies. It is limited to either a hybrid stock frame with clipped wheels or full rotated kit to go big. There are a lot of people with 6466 and a couple with 6766's at 35-38psi on the stock block and tranny...
