Need advice ASAP on removing cotter pin

does anyone know a trick ot can give hints of getting the codder pin out of the bolt? it is rusted on and we broke one side of the codder pin.

 

Your going to have to use a punch, or if that doesn't work, drill it out.

 

k, we have no punch, so we're going to try pounding on it with the tip of a soldering iron.

 

It's not working though, we got NO room to manuever and swing a hammer.

 

when they wouldnt budge at the junkyard I just put a vicegrips on the nut and just giver. the pin will shear off and it comes off fine, not something I would reccommend but definately an option.

 

No replacement pins.

We just realized we still had the wheels on still. Taking them off is giving us a bit more room to work.

 

you don't reuse the pin.

 

I don't see any pb blaster, liquid wrench or wd40 on there in that pic! have you soaked it in one of those fluids yet?

 

sometimes I do :hsugh:

 

Crap - I realized that a bit ago - that I have no penetrating oil here. Forgot it at my apt.


I think we got now though. Removing the wheel gave us the clearance we needed.

Doh!!


Thanks guys.

 

Okay, i have to ask....you are doing a trans swap right? why in the name of god are you removing that?

 

Yes. Check this other thread where I say a bit more about what Dynapar is saying to do here.

http://www.mnsubaru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28657

Basically, though, we are trying to get some play in the front axles so we can pull them off the 4EAT.

If there's a better way to go about it PLEASE share. We need helP!!

 

you wont need to remove the tie bar, only the lower ball joint.....

 

This. remove the pinch bolt from the knuckle so the ball joint can slip out of it (don't try to pull the ball joint from the control arm if you plan to re-use it. very difficult to do without fu-bar-ing it). then you'll be able to swing the whole assembly out and forward to allow you to get the axle off.


also, if you ever are removing a castellated nut and it's cotter pin. do not re-use the pin. old cotter pins will tend to just cause more problems then they solve. a cotter pin costs ~5 cents at your local hardware store. it's better to run none at all then an old one (yes, I have/do run castellated suspension nuts without a cotter pin.....it's not the end of the world).

 

Yep. This, I think, is what we did and it worked.


/thread

 

make sure you swear alot while pulling things and occasionally throwing a tool.
then feel bad about throwing said tool. pick up tool... and swear as you notice you might have damaged said thrown tool.

repete.

 

or whatever it hit