2002 Subaru WRX wagon 162k mi. ej20k swap running/02 stock ecu lower mi. 5spd installed at time of swap exeddy clutch upgrade 18g Greddy FMIC 650cc inj turbo back/ no cats Accessport tuned So I bought this car back in may, and haven't been real confident about it so far. All work was done by previous owner/s. Previous owner blew engine, purchased JDM ej20k v3 had a lower mi 02 wrx 5spd and a exeddy clutch put in at same time. Had car tuned to 93 oct. at P and L in Chicago. He said he had it detuned because he didn't want to blow another motor. Car is def slow. The car had a bad sensor on the PLX AFr gauge. Replaced that and the car was lean from what I know. Idled steady RPM wise, gauge read about 15.3 The gauge goes rich than leaner as throttle is applied and then goes back down to 15.3 when cruising. But its not always consistent, sometimes its more pronounced on inclines. It has hesitated briefly on a few occasions. I took it to get a new map at DB tuning. Dropped the car off when I went out of town so he was not able to contact me about fixes. He was not able to increase fuel, stayed lean even if he forced it. So i took the car home and hadn't done much to it till this week I had a compression check done and swap of fuel pump and kit(Walbro 255) They said the compression was good but the numbers sound low to me, around 95-110 a cylinder? Picked up car, still lean. Im at a loss on where to start. Is it obvious the engine is blown? Im gonna try to have Nuke look at it but I live down SE and don't want to drive it anymore than needed. Can't find any local shops that specialize in such cars. Long post, tried to include all the details...
95-110 thats junk is there oil in the coolant? or coolant in the oil? is there a lot of oil in the IC? who the hell puts a ej20k in a bugeye O wait I know the answer that that one a cheap ass!
So when it was at DB, I hope they used their wbo2 sensor. It could be as simple as your gauge is not reading right and you are just chasing your tail. Also, what kind of gas mileage are you getting?? What do your fuel trims look like?? Russ
I thought those were low numbers, don't know why the shop thought they were ok, said they did the comp check with the engine running? I found out later the issues with the 20k, unfortunately. I regret my purchase but its mine now...
I am not positive the gauge is reading right, the way it responds does not make sense to me. I would like to see another PLX in operation. Hwy driving i got 25 mpg, short trips to town, driving on back roads with gravel and lots of inclines is about 17 mpg. Not sure about fuel trims... Ill have to look at the report from DB more. I just don't know where to start with this, I don't have my own garage to just start tearing this apart. Previous owner said he recently changed spark plugs and fuel filter. Thats why I went the route of changing pump, hoping that was it or he had pinched something while changing filter/ sock?
Hmm, I found several answers to that question searching forums. Some say theres no filter, some say theres a filter in the tank, some say both a sock and a filter. I obviously haven't had the time to really study this car.
Well, I would just cut to the chase, get the wbo2 readings from something that you knows works properly. Hit up DB, RS, or any of the local members that have portable wbo2 readers and go from there. When I had my 18g, I was always in that 25-28mpg on the freeway and 22-24 from DD stuff, so your numbers don't look to bad. If you also meet up with any of the local tuners, they can tell you your fuel trims. If your trims look normal, and your fuel map looks normal, then your gauge is the problem. So first things first, so what you are really running for afr's and go from there. Absolutely no point in trying all these little things that might "help" when you are getting bad readings from your gauge. Russ
I concur. I did not want to just start pulling plugs and ripping out the turbo without some more verification. Id like to head back to DB since I have a friend right there but driving it that far worries me. I may have to just locate a trailer...
Nuke or ron should be able to help you out no problem, shop could have done compression testing wrong.
I'm hoping so, I got the worst case of buyers remorse. Trying not to jump to conclusions with the previous owner.... But its my fault for putting too much trust into the situation. The shop did the comp test with the car running they said. Not sure why? Never done it myself but I thought you normally hand crank the motor.
I don't think that i've ever heard of anyone running the motor while testing either? I thought that all you had to do was crank the motor over without starting for compression tests...
Tell him the whole story... uhaul plus Ryan's truck = $80 cuz labor is free especially when its got as **** out!
News to me you need a flat bed. Local one quoted me that and yes i said awd. A tow truck can do it now with dollies under the back wheels that they tie down.
engine running what the f shop was this??? if it was running wile the comp tester was on the tester is ruined and the numbers are garbage. get a true wide band reading not some gauge that cant sample fast enough to tell you anything.
Rislow service center in Lewiston. They have been good to me so far, thought this would be an easy enough task for them.
Good to you so far how? Changing oil? Sounds like they dont know what the hell they are doing, OR you dont know how to understand/explain to us what they are telling you. #1 Have someone that knows what they are doing look at the car. #2 Pay closer attention. #3 Ron or Nuke. #4 Don't wear skinny jeans and don't listen to dubstep. (If you do, see option 5) #5 Remove yourself from my planet. #6 If option 4 and 5 are N/A, read a book. #7 Profit.
I change my own oil. I am working on getting someone that knows what they are doing. What do the type of jeans I wear have to do with anything, or if I listen to dubstep(whatever the hell that is?)? Its not your planet, its our planet. I read books regularly, not just my text books. Profit? Sorry I don't understand your humor, just looking for some automotive advice.
Your looking for free advice over the internet. I highly doubt Rislow service center in Lewiston even knows where a ej20k is originally from. Do a Google search for performance shops in MN https://www.google.com/search?q=imp...&sugexp=chrome,mod=9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 o wait look I did it for you. My .02 is get a new engine one that was made in the same decade as your car. 3 people have made suggestions on people to go see if you haven't been following its RON and NUKE.
As stated in original post i am in contact with Nuke. Ive been to another tuning shop, they could not help me much at the time. Ive done the searching. I went to Rislow to have them do simple procedures. Swap fuel pump, check comp. I wasnt, about to have them open anything up or try to do any deep diagnosing. Its kind of limiting in my area. Was hopeing someone local could help me out. Id love to throw in a new engine, got a spare!? These forums are still an inadequate form of communication. Everyone gets so clever behind a screen. Really just looking for some(good)help. Thanks.
its way to hard to do diag over the internet without data video or even a picture. Without any of that were all telling you to pitch money at it till is sticks.
this is false. its called a running compression test. more accurate than a non running. they did it the correct way. running compression is a lot lower than non running compression. im not sure on the numbers of a subaru for running but it sound just about right to be high 90s to low 100s. the way you do it is exactly like a non running pull one plug screw in tester start car. your best bet is to rent a uhaul and your buddys truck if you dont have one and bring it to someone like nuke.
Youre right. Im just gonna have to get the car up to the cities. Was hoping someone knew of a closer option....
