Sounds good, working at home today. Going skating with my little sister around 7pm for an hour or so. Otherwise, I'll be around.
I think it will probably be tomorrow. Unless you want me to swing by tonight, I could probably make that work.
The secret it out! My new exhaust is the Greddy Ti-C! Full Review Here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2398343
It sounds pretty great, and I like the look of it a bit more than the Invidia N1! It was hard to tell what it would sound like with UEL headers... The only sound clip I had found was the light blue hatch with EL headers. Did I read that dyno correctly? A 25hp/tq gain over the stock catback? From what I remember you mentioning before, didn't you only lose about 3hp/tq when going from other aftermarket to the stock catback?
Yeah, there are very few videos of this exhaust out there. I think there are a couple with stock headers, but not many. The dyno does show +25WHP and +25WTQ from about 4.5k to redline! I was really surprised. Prior to this I saw no difference between the stock exhaust and a full 3" quad tip exhaust.
I'd like to thank Nuke for all the blessings he's given to the car. Without him, none of this would have been possible. Love, Ben
I'd like to thank Nuke for all the blessings he's given to the car. Without him, none of this would have been possible. Love, Ben
I'd better remember the shout out's next time You are the reason my car is like it is.... I'll have to keep that in mind.
I have been looking at getting an EL header for quite some time now. I didn't want to spend a fortune, and I wanted to keep my GrimmSpeed EWG uppipe, if possible. I had been looking around for quite some time and was having trouble making up my mind. I came across this testing that TopSpeed did of the Invidia Equal Length Race header and I was very impressed. After a while of searching I eventually found one for a pretty good price and bough it. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=33381068&postcount=18 I got the new header, and a put it on my car last night. I bought the header used, but it was in very good condition. It has a titanium ceramic coating on it for heat retention and corrosion resistance. The coating had some wear in it, but overall it was looking pretty good. There wasn't any flaking that I could see. The header has some pretty nice looking cast flanges. I cleaned them up when I received it, and look like they'll seal up just fine. The header itself appears to be of really nice quality. The bends are all the nice and smooth and it appears the junctions are all at shallow angles and should promote good flow. The O2 sensor bung is directly between the two runners, immediately before the uppipe. I was amazed by how light it was. Compared to the stock cast header or a high end offering that uses schedule 10 piping (like Fobia or Full Race) it seems like it weighs half as much. This lightness is good for weight savings, but not so good for thermal capacity/retention, so I chose to wrap it. For wrap I got the DEI Titanium wrap. It is newer and much easier to work with than traditional wrap. It is soft to the touch and does not require any coating afterwards. I bought one 50 foot by 2 inch roll and it was barely enough. I chose to wrap the runners in pairs because I thought it would retain heat better, but I don't know if this is true. Using 2" wrap and doing them in pairs will definitely give you a slightly "lumpier" final product than wrapping each runner individually with 1" wrap, but as long as it holds heat, I don' t really mind. And it definitely saved some time wrapping it that way. The SS zip ties I got were from Harbor Freight. They are MUCH cheaper than getting DEI branded ones. If you put a screwdriver in the notch in the zip tie, and then grab the loose end with a needle nose and twist it towards the screw driver you can actually pull them quite tight. Installing it was only slightly more difficult than stock. The first issue is the GrimmSpeed uppipe flex joint blocking one of the studs off the head. This is always an issue when I have done work that involves removing the header (even with the stock headers). The flex joint in the uppipe is in a horrible spot and makes it nearly impossible to get a socket on to that nut. I have been using a ratcheting strap to pull the uppipe to the side so I can get to it, but it's still a pain. The second issue was the lack of a flex joint. The flex joint that some headers have makes them much easier to install. Used headers that are solid pipes just aren't likely to line up quite right. I had to slide it onto one of the flanges and then use another ratcheting strap to "stretch" the header and get it onto the studs on the other side. Once I got it on it bolted down nicely. I used new GrimmSpeed gaskets and they sealed up great. The last small note is that the wire off of the O2 sensor would not reach to plug in. I had to unbolt the bracket holding the connector to the head. After I did this, it reaches fine. When I got everything finished up and started the car it was immediately obvious that my car now sounds like a Honda. Haha. Maybe not exactly, but it a significantly different sound, and much more Honda-like. The rumble just isn't there anymore. I don't really mind. Sound isn't too big of a deal to me (as long as it's not too loud). If it makes good power, then I don't care if it sounds like a Honda. I probably actually prefer the quietness. With the Greddy exhaust, cold idle is still pretty loud, but less boomy. Warm idle is very quiet now (even with the can style exhaust). Cruising around it's noticeably quieter. I can hear tire noise now. First gear sounds much louder in comparison. Once I go WOT and the EWG opens, that sounds a bit different too. Probably high pitched? The sound is definitely different, and that won't appeal to everyone, but for me it's not an issue, and possibly even preferred. I did a few pull un-tuned it didn't change my peak boost much at all (using a MBC). AFR's are a bit leaner. Car will be re-tuned again sometime soon. Even without tuning, the low and midrange feel much stronger. Boost comes on noticeably sooner, especially when the headers are hot. My spool is now quick enough that I can do a 50-100mph in 3rd gear the whole time and have it be pretty quick (in boost the whole time). Maybe quicker than using 2nd and 3rd due to the lack of a shift. Top end may be a little better than before, but feels similar. No plots yet, but I should have some whenever Nuke wants to meet up So far I'm very happy with them. They seem very well made, I like the sound, and the initial look at power/response seems very positive. I am looking forward to seeing the results after tuning, but the butt dyno is really pleased. I hope these headers last, because I really like them! I have a couple in car videos that I will try to post soon, and I'll try to make an outside of the car video as well.
Here's a video from outside the car: And here's one where I tried to compare the sound to the stock header:
Since it's being filtered here and I can't hear it can you try and best describe it for me sir? For example: roof roof or meow meow
He tells many people on here things that work...not only work but work well, I don't see how that is funny
I just realized it has been 2 years (and 2 days) since I got my car! Many things have changed since then, but I still have a lot of fun with the car. Over the last two years I have learned so much about it (and cars in general). Right now it's sitting at just over 30k miles and I still enjoy it just as much as when I got it. Here are photos (then and now), unfortunately the outward appearance isn't all that different from when I got it. The wheels and hood are probably the two most noticeable things. It will be back on the stock wheels again soon when I change over to winter mode, but I'll be sticking with the flat hood because of the FMIC.
I suggested this to my wife and she replied, "Oh, "photos"? Well, you better take my Civic, the." I think she wants to make sure I don't "accidentally" drive my car onto the track. Lol. Oh. Wow.
