No Boost on 02 wrx

What do you mean? For your Prodrive ECU?

I really don't know much about that system. Is it a standalone ECU (IE, hardware that you can remove from the car)?

The open source ECU tools won't work with anything other then a number of the stock subaru ECU's.

 

Josh, honestly get yourself a stock ecu, they are not too expensive and before you have all the parts for stage 2 just flash generic stage one map. Sell your intake, bov(btw, i love that sound) and prodrive ecu. Go with Cobb AP or OpenECU.

 

opecu is the way to go, fawk cobb

 

It's nothing more than an Ecutek reflash. The Prodrive ECUs are like the old Cobb ones that you could get before things like the AP came out.

 

Not to steal Josh's thread, but i got a little problem too. The problem is quite the opposite though. I just notices that when i wot the car on 4th gear the boost goes all the way to like 20psi. And when it hits 20psi it bounces down and the car slows down a little. Could it be because i tightened the wastegate arm to much?

 

Yes. Very likely.

 

^^My dog just had a seizor looking at your avatar.

 

that, and or your wgdc is too high now that you tightened the wg arm

Idk what your wgdc are, but I tightened my wg arm and I am only needing a MAX of 44%wgdc now to reach 17psi for peak boost...werd

 

I was using a different map and the car would not hit target boost, so i tightened it and it did. Now i flashed the old one back and its hitting way to much boost.

 

Lower your wgdc in the areas your overboosting, start low and work your way up.

 

You mean using the Enginuity or just the arm? I was thinking i just need to loosen the arm a turn or so.

 

I'm no expert on this....but I'd run a log see if you can determine anything is out of the norm

 

yeah, bummer. good luck. maybe WGDC?

 

Hmm valet mode?

Didn't you say it was a EcuTek reflash??

"Some EcuTek reflashed ECUs will reset to 'valet' mode after a battery disconnect. Turn the ignition key to the 'on' position (no need to start engine), press and hold throttle pedal to the floor, depress dashboard rear window defroster button. Release throttle and turn off rear window defroster. You may start the engine normally. Not all EcuTek reflashes will default to this mode. Some custom reflashes will toggle a slightly different tuning map instead of valet mode.

This may not be your problem anyway since the valet mode does not cause a car to run that lean under boost, it mainly limits boost to about 7 or 8 lbs.

Disconnecting battery power for several weeks does not cause the ECU to lose an EcuTek tune. The reflash is flashed to non-volatile memory meaning it is not power-dependent to retain the tune.

You might consult with the tuner that supplied your EcuTek reflash or reflashed ECU. You might have to send the unit back to them ."

 

The log could not cause this situation that for sure. Just get a stock ecu and see how the car runs with the stock one.

 

Yup, try this.

Simply plugging a cable into the car to log it will not cause any problems.

 

LOL Hallywood your avatar is the best!

Your friend is dead.

Well when he wakes up make him drink.

 

Josh -- did you try this? I have a sneaking suspicion this might fix your problem.

 

is your turbo shot?

 

HMMMMMMMMMMMM you could use my MBC that is set at 10psi to see

 

indeed sir

 

WEEEEEEEEEE!

 

Check the line going from the BCS to the "T" near the turbo/WG actuator.