Made a wall cabinet - cherry, walnut & maple. Not sure what I am going to do with it, just wanted to make one! (don't know why it is sideways on here)
I FINALLY finished the night stand for my wife's (2016) birthday: I want to make one for my side of the bed...maybe in another year and a half! Also, I picked up some new toys yesterday The Milwaukee reps were at the NE Home Depot yesterday and had an extra 10% any of the Milwaukee deals. I picked up the M12 Fuel hammer drill/impact combo, with a free M12 3/8 ratchet for $180, and the reps also gave me a free t-shirt and tool bag My collection of red is expanding: I was originally planning on selling the M12 fuel impact and then buying the M18 Fuel drill/impact combo because it is nice to have two drills when wood working. However, I used the M12 fuel drill and impact last night for putting up garage shelving, and that little M12 impact has a ton of power! I think I'm going to hold off on the M18 kit...
Hot damn. Consider me red with envy. Sorry, I had to. Anywho, I've been considering "downgrading" to some M12 stuff for work. I do general building maintenance stuff and the 5.0 amp/hr batteries are pretty bad ass, but also noticeably heavy after a full day of swinging around. I've considered trying out a 2.0 battery or two, but it sounds like the M12 stuff has pretty good power for most basic things. Plus, those batteries work in the heated hoodies, which I've kinda considered as well. Also, have you used the ratchet yet? Part of me wants to buy a set just to get that thing. Used one at the body shop I was at for several years and it's surprising how convenient and handy it was. Not the highest torque in the world, but if you use it like a standard ratchet for breaking the nut loose then use the motor to finish spinning it off, it saves a ton of time.
I'll put it this way...after using the M12 Fuel drill and impact a bit, I almost feel silly that I was wanting the M18 Fuel line (at least for me as a casual home DIY'er). I used both the impact and drill tonight, and zero issues with power. I was mainly driving 3 1/8 screws through 2x4's into the ceiling studs, predrilling holes with the kreg drill bit (actually a pretty beefy drill bit), and also driving 2 1/2" kreg screws. Color me impressed by this stuff. I do have the 2.0 M18 battery on my impact, and the whole setup isn't bad at all. I can imagine that those big 5.0's batteries would get heavy. I tried the 3/8 ratchet real quick after I saw your post...it zipped off my strut top 12mm nuts with ease! Granted those are pretty low torque. You can also use it as a manual ratchet, and it seems to work well. I'm bringing to the shop tomorrow night to work on the race car to hopefully use it more. Plenty of positive reviews out there, and if the regular M12 doesn't have enough torque (~35 ft-lbs), there is now a M12 Fuel version (~65 ft-lbs)...although the head is a hair bigger. The best deal on M12 Fuel kit right now is through CPO ($175 + free tool), but it ends tomorrow, and is only for the non-hammer drill kit. Otherwise home depot's deal runs through the end of January. https://www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwau...-driver-combo-kit/miln2594-22,default,pd.html Fair warning, the gen 2 M12 Fuel impact and drill are coming out in December. Both tools are shorter overall, and the impact picked up another 100 ft-lbs of torque. At first I was a little ticked, but truly, I'll be more than fine with what I got. Plus, I got a great deal, and the gen 2's will inevitably cost more. https://toolcraze.net/new-milwaukee-tools-nps2017-m12-m18-power-tools/ /milwaukeeknowledgedump I've been wasting too much time lately researching Milwaukee stuff lol. Here is the project that I finished up tonight:
Hooray for overhead storage! Crazy they're running the deal for 2 months. If I could score myself a free tool bag and shirt I'd maybe go pick that set up.
Yea, home depot had a Milwaukee in store/demo event yesterday and the Milwaukee reps were there. Only ran 8am-2pm which was annoying, so I stopped in in my way to work. The reps were the ones that hooked me up with the shirt and bag... And they had extra 10% off. So I make no promises on that lol, but the HD site does say the deal is on until end of January.
I would like to post up a woodworking problem that I hope does NOT turn into a woodworking project. I would like to replace the glass only on a stationary 20x60 window. The house exterior is brick. From the inside, I noticed six putty holes going through a narrow piece of surrounding trim and after removing the putty saw that there are Robertson (square drive) screws holding the framed piece of glass in place. The screws have been in place for 27 years and as expected began to strip. Best way to get them out? EZ out? Reverse drill bit? Thank you -Rick
I have had decent luck with screw extractors in the past. Left hand drills could also work but most good screw extractor kits use a left hand drill to cone out the screw for the extractor anyway so could kill 2 birds with one stone buy getting an extractor kit.
I typically don't have any luck with screw extractor kits, but it's usually on a car where the bolt is rusted. From what I've read, left hand drill bits are by far better. Square flute screw extractors are also supposed to work well.
If you are trying to remove a bolt left hand drills and square extractors all the way. Screw extractors only work well for screws. not so much on bolts they cant get a good enough bite in most cases.
Didn't really know where to post this, and didn't feel it necessary to make a whole thread about it, so I'm seeking the help of the fellow woodworkers/builders. My apologies for the short novel here. My issue is baby proofing our second level railing/banister. The spindles were installed in the 90's and are a little too far apart to leave them open. As far as the main spindle area goes, we covered it with a roll of window screen material. Cut to fit the height, then rolled it out along the whole thing. Attached to each spindle and top/bottom rails with zip ties so that it's removable without leaving marks/damage to the nice finished oak. Anywho, my question here is on each end I've got a gap of one spindle space that I had to leave open due to how we wrapped the screen around the last spindle in each section. One end then has the big corner post and the other one has the wall. We're trying to figure out a way to fill this space to keep the man from slipping through, and hopefully not affect the woodwork. My best guess so far was a spring tension curtain rod with a piece of pool noodle over the top. My vision was that the spring would provide enough tension to restrain him and the pool noodle would cushion the inevitable blow to the head. Unfortunately, it didn't seem stout enough to hold his weight, so we didn't go with it. Long story short, anybody got any suggestions on a non-permanent solution to this? I can provide pictures if that'd help. Worst case scenario, I'm alright firing a screw or two vertically into the little spacer blocks between the spindles at the top and bottom but I'd rather not intrude anymore than that if I don't have to. Thanks!
Do you have any 2x2 boards? Could pressure fit one in each end. I personally would use a piece of trim and wrap the screen around it. The use a pin nailer to attach it to the knule post and wall. The floppy end would get zip tied to the other screen/spindles where you already attached it. Honestly would have been strongest if you would have run the screen all the way to both sides rather than patching in. But you should be able to secure it good enough tho.
2”x4” boards could be pressure fit in as well and you could run them flat so that they really fill up the gap. To pressure fit, take a tight measurement, then add a 1/16 of an inch to the length. Use hammer and tap it “gently” into place.
I like that idea. Seems simple enough. And if I really had to I could shoot a small nail or two in each end to secure it even more. If I pressure fit a 2x4 in there I can't imagine he'd be able to budge it.
I don’t think he will. It would take alot of force to push it out. You can go really crazy and add an 1/8 to your tight measurement. You might need the BFH to tap that in tho.
Saran Wrap the whole shebang. After the kid bounces off it a few times he will be wary of it and the single opening by the wall will become a non-factor. Or strap a helmet on his noggin that won't fit through the baluster openings. Or put him inside one of these during waking hours:
I'd probably cut a 2x2 to fit for length, kreg jig/pocket screw each end and tag it in. Once it needs to be removed, just pull the screws out and fill the small holes left over in the banister.
Glad to help...probably be doing something similar in the future if I don't just bite the bullet and replace my spindles throughout. Between a crappy paint job from the previous owners and a wide gap it's a bit of a toss up.
We considered plexiglass or something like that instead of the screen but then didn't wanna have to clean it almost daily.
Have you done spindles before? I'm kinda curious as to how it goes together. Looks to me like you just start at one end with a spacer top and bottom and then line up a spindle next to them. Spindle is loose in there and is held in by the spacers on each side that are pin nailed in place. Does that sound right? If so, I think other than time consuming it might not be too bad to add in a few extra spindles at some point in the future. Otherwise we'll just roll with what we're doing now as it seems to be working so far.
Just finished a Christmas gift for my parents... Under cabinet wine rack: I also just discovered that the Menards in Fridley has an awesome lumber selection... Oak, poplar, aspen, etc in any size imaginable. Kinda pissed I didn't discover that earlier, but it's good to know nonetheless.
That's what I understand to an extent. I would plan on finding my center and moving outwards from there. I think there's a fair amount of measuring to make sure you have even spacing throughout each run, however nothing too difficult to figure out once you pick your baluster and have the nominal width for it. However there may be a different measurement slightly on the ends versus the middle balusters, but it should look right visually if they space from the center out. Heck, I could be completely wrong too but that's what makes sense to me!
Haha agreed, the rest of the store isn't that great. But the lumber is in a separate building and has a huge selection. I haven't seen that kind of selection in other Menards (definitely not Home Depot), but I also haven't looked that hard at other Menards' locations.
Every Menards should have the same product, and realistically that Fridley one possibly has less than some of the other ones (just based on space). I think that store is one of the few remaining original style ones because there isn't enough land there to tear down and build a new one (hence why they bought out that store next door when it went out of business). Anywho, in the "regular" stores the fancy lumber is over next to the indoor lumber rack. There's a little tucked in area with some of it and now I think they have a whole aisle dedicated to it as well. My apologies if I'm coming off as a Menard's loving nerd, because it's quite the opposite. Sadly, I gave them just shy of 5 years of my life right outta high school...
I will post pictures later, I'm writing to remind myself to do so later... Have you heard of mancrates.com? Rather than spend the money on that I decided to wrap my dad's and nephew's gifts in a homemade cedar crate, staple, glue and screw it together so they have to use their tools to get it apart. Maybe I'll tie a rope around it and give them a multitool on the outside. Also on the project table - a wooden advent calendar that should have been done last year, and still isn't done in time for Christmas this year.
And put it up with a staple gun. Of course you can still do this, if you're a no longer married but have joint custody. Women are all about aesthetics.
Coinhole. Made it out of old cabinet doors. Finished it with polyurethane and ski wax. Nice and slick. Was a big hit with my niece and nephews.
Table top corn hole. I saw it at Walmart and thought "I can make that". Their box said very specifically... this is not a drinking game. The one I made, can and will be used as a drinking game.
