Got the stairs built! Also framed two closets and a bathroom upstairs. Got it wired and insulated as well. Ready for spray foam and drywall on the second level! I’ll have to get you some pics of the upstairs Mark. Working on jacking the addition up with 20 ton jacks, shuring up the walls below it, then we plan to remove the foundation from below. The foundation work is being done by a professional. It’s not cheap, but worth it! Here are a couple of pics of the new steps. I’ll post pics of the upper level and the foundation soon.
I'm finally reframing my basement after removing cat piss soaked everything in our basement. Finally smells like nothing.
“Cat-piss soaked everything”. I’ve worked on a few of those in my day. Our current home had double 5/8’s subfloors with a ton of piss in them as well. Fun times!
Let's just say the house has a few dozen gallons of killz on it now and 100% new baseboard and flooring
Spray foam is in! And we got the back of the house jacked up so the block layer can get started. It came up 2 inches. Lol
Office, laundry room and bathroom have partial walls. Plumber comes out in a few weeks to bust out concrete to install the grinder and drains before we finish framing. Lean-to on the shed is after or during that to store the dune buggy.
What are you putting in for a ceiling? With all the mechanicals, I just couldn't bring myself to drywall over it and did a suspended ceiling.
The supply and waste pipes are pretty ruined from multiple moves of the laundry room from past owners and some BS plumbing they did to add the basement bathroom. Later this year We'll be ripping it all out and moving the water heater to a new utility closet with a pex water supply manifold so there won't be any pipes in the way to run normal drywall with a small electro/mechanical tunnel from the laundry room to the bathroom utility closet. Should have about 50 feet less of water supply runs in the house and about 30 feet less of waste runs after getting the plumbing completed.
I ran new runs back to accessible valves. My fridge has a shut off valve under the sink. I don't want to pull a fridge to shut off a valve.
I’ve always told anyone that I could when I did water restoration to ditch the water supply to the fridge. They fail quite often. I did a clean up of $16,000 in a basement out in Medina that was caused by a pinhole in the fridge supply line. That was just one of the many!
The last two supply lines I have ran to refrigerators I plumbed exactly like a faucet. supply>shut off valve>pex>shut off valve behind fridge>coil of copper flex>fridge. It's a bit overkill but gives people multiple chances to shut the water off depending on what failed and leaves a permanent fixture for Fridge water/ice supply.
Yup, that's what I have. Except I have a 3/8" compression fitting (shut off) recessed in the wall behind the fridge.
Just bought $400 of red Cedar for some 4 x 8 foot raised beds! My wife's been after me for ages to build these lol. 2 hours of sorting lumber at Menards later! Finally warm enough to get cracking.
@Tangled, who are you using for the foundation work? I have some drain tile in my basement I want to get checked out before refinishing my basement. Admit I could use any tips on framing and getting this stuff done in my basement, and any contractors you've been happy with?
I am currently in Iowa for this flip house, so the contractors aren’t local to the TC’s. Not sure who I would recommend for drain tile in the cities. Probably a company who can run a camera through it?
I have had to shop at Menards down here in Iowa, more than I have ever had to in the past. Looking forward to being able to run to the Depot again when I get back home.
Hey, CROCS always get bad publicity. They are a priceless tool in the toolbox. Now if only I could buy them at Harbor Freight... That Samurai, more pics please! That thing looks minty
For the basements, I'm really just at the begining of the process. The previous owners had finished the basement but did a "DIY caliber job" that involved puting the studs and insulation in direct contact with the Concrete block and no Vapor barrier. I have it demo'd to a blank block wall canvas, and had been planning on R5 or R10 foam board insulation. I've done some research on code compliance but curious if you guys have found a best reference to follow?
Heh I can definitely imagine. I tried to reduce the Karma hit by organizing them again as best I could. So much of the lumber was just garbage though it took ages to find enough decent boards.
1)Install foam board on wall 2)Install stud walls 3)Install drywall Do not use plastic sheeting in the wall cavity at all.
I'll add cement sealant to fill the holes/craters left by the nails and foundation paint to that list but I'm not an expert in anything here
Yep, not necessary, but a great addition! If your foundation has cracks, it is a really good idea to caulk them. If you have moisture issues, it is highly recommended to do a layer or two of paint. I usually use DryLok masonry paint with wet basements.
That's essentially what I was getting at. Haha. It's kinda sad sometimes what they get away with selling.
Thanks! 1, 2, and 3 and pretty much what I expected. Just for comparison I've had a couple contractors quote the basement work and all are adamant that a vapor barrier and batt insulation are just fine vs. foam board. I sense its about profit margin and can't blame them there. I realize it may be code with a vapor barrier, but it seems like a least effort option for a contractor. Can you comment on foam board vs. vapor barrier? Everyone I've met who tackled their basement themselves did foam board but I don't have a lot to go on on why. Appreciate all the guidance and partience answering questions. I could see a vapor barrier just preventing the concrete from breathing at all but admit I don't know. THanks!
The foam board is a much easier install. It is a vapor barrier, so you don’t need to buy super expensive polyurethane sheeting. Nor do you have to install the itchy fiberglass. R-value isn’t super relevant in a basement because it will always be cooler. Foam board looks way more expensive up front. But I assure you, that the reduced labor costs will make up for it.
