You need to make sure the fittings and flaring tool have the same type and angle, or they won't seal. Also, you don't want to overtighten them, as that can deform the flare too, and cause the same problem.
I hope your planning on getting an aftermarket Radiator in the future if you're goning to track this car. At this piont it looks to be the weak link of your project.
http://www.carbon-fiber-hoods.com/enter.html?lang=en-us&target=d13.html third door up from the bottom im seriously debating getting them they shave so much weight.
double check this. When i first played with doing fittings i had a leak. not cool (hot oil spewing out = bad). use some teflon thread tape, to make sure you get a good seal.
martin are you good with a flare tool? i could really use some help with this. maybe we can get colin back down here and all 3 of us can figure it out.
^ the flare tool isnt that hard to use. especially if you have a vice. i could probably help out. just need to see when i am free.... ugh school is lame.
i hearde you don't even need the container for oil and coolant...whats it called again??? the engine or something? saves like 600 lbs
Jusin, did you get these lines flaired yet? If time were of a bit greater supply, I would come down there and help, but unfortunately, it's not... Sorry. I got a double flare tool from McMaster-Carr that worked out really well. Easy to use, and fairly cheap. 2694A12 45 Degree Flaring Tool for Soft Metal for 3/16"- 1/2" OD Tubing In stock at $48.81 Each http://www.mcmaster.com/ Search "Double Flare tool" The one I got is "G" If you want to borrow it, let me know. it takes some practice to get it right, but it's not that difficult. I'll even give you a tutorial if you want to pick it up. And it came in a neat blue case.
Here's a perfect opportunity for Grimmspeed to shine and really show what their R&D can really do. Can you say TIME ATTACK! Go represent Mnsubaru.com woohoo! http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1377042
did you get it sorted out???? I had to hand make one for a customers car the other week... pain in the arse... 8inches long and bent back on itself in a 4inch space... kinda sounds like my love life with Bill
I work at Wolf Ford in Jordan... 3 blocks from my house I will be getting a key soon... can use the bays after hours whenever I want... so maybe some installs before I build our house/workshop
actually we maybe could saturday after 3:30pm if you had the rotors and pads... that way they dont see that truck in getting wokred on for free... ha ha ha I dont have a key yet... but Mike my boss said something about it to me yesterday oh yeah.... back on topic... any updated pics???
i actually got the engine in 2 weeks ago but i have failed to take any pics...just too damn busy. i'll get some up next week i promise
oh i got eastcoastswappers hooking me up with all the missing parts i have so that will speed things up alot. i'll try to win that race martin
^ Well if you have swapper connections you had better. although kelly's car is eerily close to running.
stopped by Grimmspeed today, to get a remflex gasket. Justin was fabbing up a skid plate for project L. heres a sneak peak.... the new theory is absording the damage instead of deflecting it. also they were out of cherry blossom red material.
Formular 150 skid plates? What's the r-value on that sucker? I'm gonna try to make it over there tomorrow too, gotta pick up some redline.
lol thanks martin some skid plate making action today. i wanted to make something that covered the whole front of the car and gave the bumber cover some support. i had to completely gut the front bumper to be able to fit the fmic in so i need something to support it so if i were to hit anything it would just break off. there really wasnt anything on the market i could find so i decided to make my own. tool/supply list jigsaw drill razor blade 4x8 sheet of insulation 4x6 sheet of 3/16" diamond plated aluminum first i took the overall widest and deepest measurements of the front of the car and cut a piece of insulation to that size. i cut out the area by the wheel so i could get the template(insulation) up high enough to tape it so i could start cutting it away little by little to get cover up as much as possible but still be far enough away from moving suspension parts and the wheels. once i got the template cut to my liking i then traced the shape onto the aluminum. i figured i would have to take the piece on and off a million times trying to get it to fit right but luckily i put it up to the car and everything fit almost perfectly...i was stoked. just one little section need to be smaller to allow for more tire movement. i put the diamond side up because i really didnt like the look of it and it obviously isnt smooth. only reason why i got the diamond plate was because it was the only piece of aluminum i could find in the scrap pile at the local metal shop that was big enough. i need to go find some longer bolts. i tied in to the two oem bolt holes in the front subframe and 2 bolt holes in the engine crossmember. all in all took about 3 1/2 hours and $100 in materials. Justin
2 oem bolt holes on the front part of the subframe and 2 oem bolt holes on the bracket that bolts up to the bottom of the engine crossmember. if you do it on the wrx you will have 3 holes on the front to work with.
I likey. How much does it weigh? Did you have to bend it at all? That's also a good way to reduce lift on the car. I might have to have my hand at this. It'd be sweet to bag some sort of composite at school.
since he has wrx headers there is no need to bend it. you really only need to bend the sides to clear the NA headers which sit alittle lower iirc