Prajekt L: 2700lbs of Fury

you have 17 days, you better be ready.

 

its out of my hands right now...waiting on help with brake lines but that isnt working out to well.

anyone know of a local shop that is experienced with running/flaring new brake lines? i dont have time to learn right now and need it done right asap.

 

Man, it sucks that you're so far away. If you were closer, I would swing by and take care of it for you. Let me see if I can free up some of my weekend and I'll let you know. Do you have all of the fittings and the tubing?

 

that would help out soo much..honestly i'm starting to get a bit stressed about the whole brake line issue. the lines/fittings are all in but pretty much every juncture is leaking so i'm guessing the flares need to be redone. it shouldnt take to long if you know what you are doing(i dont).

 

Well let me see what I can do about maybe stopping over there this weekend. A Friday night or Saturday morning early thing may work the best.

Have you used the double flare tool (blue kit)? I'll hunt for and bring mine if I make it there.

 

i hate the double flare, like i said when i was there justin, i know how but mine epically fail when i double flare

 

if you have a flare tool it shouldnt take long at all, maybe i'll borrow brian's and swing by this weekend

EDIT: double flare? n/m

 

Hmm. I haven't done it myself, but I know my dad just redid all the brake lines on my grandma's car and he used a double flare tool and it worked great.

 

I single flared all of my fuel lines, but due to the massive pressure of the break lines, I had success with the double. True, it is more of a PITA, but I figured the result was worth it. Leaky break lines = dangerous.

 

yeah..i definitely cant have leaky brake lines as i dont have the stock ebrake anymore so if they pressure goes out i'm really screwed.

 

You might want to consider leaving some mechanical fail-safe just incase!!!

I was driving at the Ojibwe Forrest rally probably 4 years ago. The push-rod that we had connecting the break pedal and the master cylinders snapped at a 90 left. I went ripping through the police tape and pulled the stock E-break as quickly as I could. It's the only thing that saved us from hitting some parked cars and spectators.

I would strongly recommend leaving in something mechanical. Not that something will go wrong, but you'll be DAMN glad you did if you ever need it. (they're not that heavy) :biggrin:

EDIT: See you Saturday evening.

 

that the Brake snapped... er break-ed ha ah ha

 

It RUNS!!!!!!


time to go to bed.

 

:naughty: :wiggle: :biggthumpup: :bowdown: :disco: :run: :slayer: :cheers2: :cheers: :nana: :rockwoot:

also

 

how have the brakes come along, need help with anything else?

 

/\/\/\ This! How did the breaks turn out? Is it taken care of?

 

lmao @ the mega-dancing banana!

 

x2 that banana is awesome

 

Hell yeah. Its been a good week for subies...

 

yeah, definitely a great start to 08.

brake are perfect, mike wray fixed every jucture and reflared them all and it worked like a charm.

i'm just glad she'll be at the ice races

 

so everything seemed to be fine...took her out again today drove her around the highways for 20 minutes, then when i slowed down there was a knocking sound coming from the timing belt cover area on the driver side. when its in neutral at idle its the loudest and is i go faster it slowly goes anyway.

any guesses as to what it is? timing belt tensioner? the engine only has 25k on it.

also it doesnt always do it at idle.

 

SWEEEEEEEET congrats

 

thanks.

anyone have any thoughts about the issue?

 

I would take the timing belt cover off and check to see where the noise is coming from. I wouldnt drive it if its making horrid knocking noises.

 

If it goes away at high revs, just turn up the idle. :laugh:

Also works as cruise control.

 

I know the pullies don't like to sit for a long time. My old NA motor did that after it sat with the covers off for about a month from the deer incident. I thought it was some sort of knocking sound, but it wasn't as sharp of a noise.

Does this sound similar? It sucks that the pullies are kinda spendy to just "throw" in a set.

 

could be that too becaue the driver said cover was off when i got the motor from the guy. which pullies are you talking about exactly?

 

The four pullies for the timing belt, including the one for the tensioner. I think its a bit over $300 for the set, which included a new belt for me.


I put probably 30k on mine with it making the noise.

 

wanna stop over tomorrow?

 

a little white lithium grease on tensioner/idler pullies will temporarily get rid of the noise 99% of the time. work it into the seam a little then install. if the noise goes away, that's definitely your problem. I wouldn't leave it like that for a long time (certainly not for the ice races....), but good for diagnosis.

 

can you pick up that grease at checker?

 

yea, almost anywhere will have it. try to get a tub or tube of it.....avoid the aeresol cans.



you know....I bet you'd be fine for the weekend running with regreased pullies, since the noise just started.

 

I think I saved most of the pulleys and tensioner from when I changed mine timing belt if you want to see if any of those are still good.

 

that would be awesome! i'll check mine out and if they turn out to be bad i'll be getting ahold of you.

sidenote...shockproof isnt in yet....

 

i am 80% sure its the timing belt tensioner, when they go out the make a knocking sound that sounds just like a rod

 

If you take off the timing belt covers and run the engine, you will be able to see if the tensioner is jumping around.

 

ok. i'm just confused about how the TB tensioner could go out after only 25k.

 

could have been in a front end collision

 

If the motor sat for a long time, and you said one of the covers was off, the bearings in the pullies don't fare too well.

 

so i could barely get her into gear today when starting her up. took me literaly 4-5 minutes of trying to get it into reverse then 1st gear.

the pedal seems to engage really close to the floor..i'm wondering if the pedal isnt fully disengaging the clutch.

 

was there fluid leaked out? our master cylinder on our vette/57 street rod had the same problem when the master cylinder cracked

 

yea check for leaks - my accord did the same thing when the master cylinder was leaking at the pedal connection

if not try rebleeding the system

 

hmm...havent seen anything underneath the car. i'll take a closer look.

 

also look inside the car - up where the bmc comes through the firewall

 

bleed the system anyways.. try again...