Prajekt L: 2700lbs of Fury

What spring rates did you get?

 

yep..you are a pro for sure! i think i just saw the fogs sitting on the shop floor next to the tool box today.

we are fully sponsored by BC Racing so we are getting all the springs they offer. Right now we have the 8s and the 6s

 

I wanna see the car SLAMMED. as low as it goes. Tarmac mode FTW.

how much for fogs?

 

ok here is a tougher one for you martin.

this is more weight reduction i did today. now guess what it was.

 

Hmm.... I am gonna guess that, that is the drum-in-disc e brake.

Preparing for the hydro ebrake already?

 

hmmm....ebrake_drum_removal.jpeg......I wonder what it might be :biggrin:

 

yep. 2lbs weight reduction per rear wheel

cheater!!!!

 

^ i didnt check the file name. good idea chux. I will need to remember that one for future guessing games.

 

sweet jesus that thing is going to float away!

 

Are you still going to be running the ABS system on there or are you going to go w.o it?

 

judging by the way Justin launched his bugeye last January at Rich's place it wont float away it will FLY away into the stratosphere... ha a

 

no abs for me!

i have no clue what you are talking about:biggrin:

with that said...those v8 jdm spec c's i had held up really well at the ice races last year.

 

Did your car have ABS to start with?

If so i want the wheel speed sensor from the front drivers side. if you are going to use it. IIRC its only used for controlling ABS. mine got fubared.

 

yeah i did have abs. i have a few extra sensors laying around. i thought someone said i need at least one speed sensor thing talking to the ecu though

 

^ that could be. well if you want to sell a sensor let me know. I wanna try to have my abs working before winter hits hard.

also: fog lights

 

I'm on dial-up, so I have images turned off....so they all just show up as a link. I see the filename before I see the image

 

Got this package in the mail today...



TiC Tranny Crossmember Bushings
TiC 5MT Linkage Update
Tic Rear Diff Mount Bushings
The guys over at TurnInConcepts are awesome to work with! If you guys need anything suspensionwise...they are the best guys to go to.

 

^ cool. I will be stopping by the shop later. i havent seen the grimmracer in a while.

 

Ah. Didn't know that was TiC stuff. Nice. I'm thinking about buying some stuff from them soon, good to know. :biggrin:

 

did some more weight reduction today. since i'm going with the hydrolic ebrake i dont need all the regular ebrake hardware that is wrapped around the hub. we took off a good 2lbs per wheel and that doesnt count the things like the ebrake brake lines so we are looking at around 5lbs total.
this pic shows the ebrake hardware that is on the hub

actual weight reduction per wheel

the hub looks so much cleaner after taking it all off

Justin
www.grimmspeed.com

 

Can you put up some pix of the whole car / engine bay / interior...

 

sure. i'll take some today when chux and i put the wiring in.

 

hope ur keeping a tally on the amount spent on this project.....would make for an interesting read...
i should stop by the bat cave one of these days to check out the grimmmobile

 

H6 updgrade as been started. this is really a simple mod. the only things you need are an H6 sized rotor, H6 caliper bracket, impreza LX or WRX rear caliper. there is defiintely a big difference in rotor size bettwen the weak LX rotor and the leggy H6. i think next time i need to replace the rears i'm going to get the old turbo leggy rear vented rotors.

 

^ so how much more do those rotor weigh?

 

shiit....good point. i'll try to find some time to weigh them today at the shop

 

Thought I'd post this.....what my living room looked like a week ago:

 

the only problem with the h-6 upgrade is you are still using the same size caliper and pad.. so realistically I dont see how much of a performance upgrade it really is as it is still clamping at the same pressure on the same area surface???? and I have the exact same upgrade!!!! technically I dont see the difference in performance but mentally I felt like it hepled...ha h ah

 

^ you still increase braking torque because of the increase in radius. less force is required to get the same effect from a farther distance.

 

+1. Since you are applying the force farther away from the center of rotation your braking torque is greater. Another benefit is the larger mass of the rotor can take more heat before getting too hot, and the larger surface area allows more cooling between times when it is heated by the pads.

 

yeah I was thinking that as I was typing but got sick of typing (if you see my usual large posts...) and wasnt sure how to word it....

So I guess there is enough of a difference in performance for the price... Dont get me wrong.. its a worthwhile upgrade if you cant afford to drop $1-2K on a brake package...

 

^ also there is much more material there so it will take longer / more braking to heat it up to the point of fading.

 

Thank you mister engineer. That brake upgrade is on m growing list of things I want to do.

 

^ i cant stress this enough, just buy decent pads. and untill you can bring those to a smokey death, dont waste money on doing a brake component upgrade.

 

we got the new prototype rear camber plates in today from BC Racing. These arent on the market yet so we are trying them out for BC. install was pretty simple with just the supplied tools(preload adjusting wrenches, 6mm allen), 14mm wrench, and a 17mm wrench. everything bolted up perfectly except i had to move the outside allen head bolts to the inside because they were hitting on the fender hole.

first you will want to mark your current preload position for the spring. we used some fashionable pink finger nail polish to mark the spot.

these are the wrenches that are included with the coilovers to adjust the spring preload. loosen the lower one first, then proceed with the second. loosen them enough to take all pressure off the spring so you can begin taken the plate/tophat off.

these are the wrenches you'll need. this is the stock non-adjustable BC Racing tophats. first step will be taken the dampener adjuster off and the main nut the holds the plate on. when you get the dampener adjuster off you will expose a 6mm allen..this is used to hold the stud still while taking off the 17mm nut.

next you will want to slide off the collar that sits around the stud. once the collar is off you can slide the plate off.

here is a pic of the plate completely off. now we will start to install the new adjustable camber plates.


put the new camber plate on. then slide collar back around the stud. tighten down the 17mm nut. you will need to use the allen wrench again to hold the stud from spinning. reinstall the dampener adjuster with your 14mm wrench.

now the camber plate is completely installed. while trying to put the coilver onto the car i noticed that one of the small allen bolts was hitting on the side of the fender hole.

to solve this problem you need to move both outside allen bolts to the middle slot.


this is what the allen bolts should look like once moved over.


now the coilover will slide back up into the fender and bolt right in with the 3 12mm nuts that hold the coilver to the fender.

Hope that helps all of you out that will be doing this mod in the future when these plates come onto the market.
Justin Grimm
www.grimmspeed.com
AIM: GrimmSpd

 

^ I might try and drop off that hood for you sometime next week after class.

 

obx rear adjustable trailing arms came today. i was a little worried since they were only 120 shipped but to my surprise these puppies are pretty solid. they have a pillow ball mount on one end..that same end is also adjustable.
install was pretty easy...1 bolt to the hub, 1 bolt to the trailing arm bracket, and 3 bolts that hold the trailing arm bracket to the car.
of course..the pics:

 

nice, cars looking good

 

looks good so far, can't wait till its done so i can run you in it.

 

car isnt being built to be a drag queen but an autox, rallyx, road course car. with that said, i'm always up for any type of race.

 

lookin good. for some reason it looks to me that those obx bits may bend easier than the stock ones. gotta be alittle more careful w/ air time in the future.

 

no way in hell will these obx ones bend easier than the stocker....just wait till you see them in person.

 

yea those things were beefy man. i dont think they will bend

 

nice work so far, guys!