if it's a racecar, any race car i would build would probably end up with sheet-aluminum door panels...but I don't think your going that purpose built.
door cards = wieght reduction oppurtunity, just like that climate control. get crackin, you have T - 1 week to get it road worthy. or else the beamer is getting dirty
no problem, glad to help out. if it weren't for the missing column stuff we could have easily have the entire inside front all buttoned up already :biggrin:
hydrolic ksport ebrake and wilwood brake proportion valve is 90% installed. just need to attached 2 flex stainless lines into the system but all the hard line have been run throughout the car. we made an awesome find...there is this new hard brake line that you can actually bend by hand and it wont crease. this made our lives a TON simpler. no more using the bending tool.
The handbrake is hydraulic instead of cable-operated now. I think that makes it a lot stronger, plus you lose some unspung weight in the rear end getting rid of the e-brake stuff. The downside is its not an e-brake in case of hydraulic failure anymore.
correct...a hydrolic ebrake isnt meant to help the 5mt with anything. it locks up the rear calipers instead of the the stupid ebrake drums. long story short, hydro ebrake is bad for 5mt.
I am not sure how the brakes are tied into the 6spd. i know that the 6spd disengages teh center for the e-brake and normal braking but i dont know how it reacts to a hyrdo ebrake (might not be good for 6spd either).
Ya but 5-speeds have open center diffs so there's not really anything to disengage. Its still pretty hard on your center diff when your rear wheels are locked and the front ones are spinning.
Justin, if you want some help making some changes or making new door cards let me know, i might be up next weekend.
The hydrolic e-brake is almost a closed system. If your brake boost/mastercylinder goes out the handbrake can be pulled and still work.
yes, actually i do know where to start, been down that road a few times before, along with others with fiberglass
yes...he sent me the wrong one. then i had him send me another one and he sent me the wrong one again.
whatever you want... also, a steamer works best, but a hair dryer and some time and effort will work too for the fabric portion of it
i really like the style of the door cards that alot of the rally america cars have...you know what i'm talking about? maybe we can steal one from one of the CPD guys to use as a template.
i'm guessing this is an entire day project?? so maybe saturday would work best unless you are free during the day on friday. i'll see if i can find a pic somewhere
here is an example. however you cant see the top flat part where the window controls are. which reminds me i'd like to do lexan windows. View attachment 6589
Now why not just replace the RooF with some CF! That will really lighten up some weight. Hood/Trunk CF, side panels w/Fiberglass. And I hope you're keeping the AC, staging for track days in the hot summer sun can be a baitch.
the really nice CF that i want is a little out of my reach right now. took the AC out for the winter. i'll put it back in before next summer.
meh, if i am working at it, all 4 is not a big deal over 2... just more $$ for materials. saturday should work fine, i figured see if you wanted to start friday night, get some things done, then do the rest all over saturday
What have you done for the shifter link and stock bushings? Aftermarket stiffer bushings make a huge difference on the track when you're trying to figure out your gears. Short Shifter too.
everything you can do basically. kartboy front and rear bushings, TurnInConcepts 5MT linkage update, kartboy shifter bushing. its notchy as hell right now.