This thread started in the Mods/Maintenance Forum. tonyM essentially wanted to know if a rebuild was needed at 100k. And by rebuild I mean, tearing out the motor and doing major maintenance. Do not take my reply as a line by line summary of what needs to be done at 100k, that isn't the point of my reply or this thread in general. The point that you should walk away with is about preventive maintenance versus preemptive replacement. The valuable message in my post is that replacing things preemptively before they break can be costly, and pointless. The post that I made does give you some great things you should be doing to maintain your vehicle. It is the DNA of a thorough engine/drivetrain checkup. At 100k miles, your car is midlife...in its 40's if you will in human years. And as such, it needs a little more from the doctor than some pinch-and-squeal-turn-and-cough. Just remember, if it ain't broke, and you take good care of it on a regular basis, you will probably be fine. Things break, it happens, but replacing unbroken parts is pointless and costly. -Jason
Also, thought I'd add my experiences (far too many!) with doing Timing belts: my list, and where I like to get the parts (OEM is nice....but for the most part, unnecessarily expensive, even with the discount). belts, pulleys and tensioner. I would check and only replace the pulleys as needed if it's the cars first tbelt change, after that, I would replace them all, regardless. There are PCi (preferred components, inc.) kits available on ebay (like this one) for a good price. I've run these kits on many of my cars with wonderful results. definitely OEM quality for much less. water pump. Beck/Arnley brand from RockAuto.com (again, I use this brand for numerous parts, clutch, water pump, brake calipers, etc.....OEM quality for less, NOT remanufactured!!) Thermostat and gasket. just go OEM. don't skimp here, they really don't cost enough to justify cutting the corner. OEM ones are available from RockAuto.com as well. and last time I checked it was less than the morries discounted price.... the 90* hose from the water pump to the heater line. again, if this is the first time you've been in there, just check it, after that, replace it no matter what. Just pull off the old one and take it to a parts store, they will probably have something that will fit just fine in stock. also get a pair of real live hose clamps for it. Crank and Cam seals. this is like $20 in parts, and $300 in labor to do separately. do them now. awesome quality Viton seals available from Smallcar.com for a great price. If you've got the engine out (not necessary.....but maybe you're doing clutch too....I dunno). rear main seal, again Viton from smallcar. also replace the seals for the access holes. same deal, cheap to buy, big project to replace. OEM from your local dealer is the way to go here. ditto on valve cover gaskets/grommets.
Just a heads up, If you call me(or brian) up with prices from anywhere else we can try to match/beat those prices, and you wouldnt have to pay shipping, Some items we wont be able to touch, but we will be happy to know that MNSOC member's cars are out there with quality OEM parts, not chinese reman knockoff crap.
