Discussion in 'Photo & Video Gallery' started by Chux, Jul 12, 2010.
Just looking at the pictures I can smell it.
Daylight, under it's own power!
20200801_073307 by Numbchux, on Flickr
20200801_073315 by Numbchux, on Flickr
Still a lot to be done before it can actually be driven....but engine runs, and sends power to the wheels!
Tinkering away at it. When I drove it outside, it had an oil leak from under the timing cover. Pulled the cover to find this:
2020-08-10_02-53-37 by Numbchux, on Flickr
The Oring that seals the high pressure port from the pump into the block slipped and is hanging half out of the pump. It builds enough pressure to turn off the light, but squirts oil out there with some serious force (with the covers off....it hit the fender).
This sucks, as it is designed to be installed before the upper oil pan, which meant a correct fix would involve pulling the motor. Luckily, I swapped for the LS400 front sump oil pan, which meant I could unbolt the pickup from the pump through the lower pan, extract one of the studs, and sneak the pump off. Another $20 worth of gaskets (Lexus of Wayzata is not afraid of matrix pricing....these relatively low dollar parts were nearly double MSRP), and some more sealant, and it's back together. I got the timing pulleys wet when degreasing, and the bearings are a little worse for wear. Even though this is a non-interference motor, and the belt isn't a big job, I ordered a couple Koyo pullies and a Mitsuboshi Belt.
I also picked up this Tacoma shifter trim with a folding dual cup holder. It needs a little paint to match, but a very nice addition:
2020-08-24_09-42-32 by Numbchux, on Flickr
“Hey cupholder, hold my beers and watch this...”
Thanks so much for documenting this project. I love it! Keep up the effort. Almost there!
Progress is very slow, but still continues.
Got the oil pump resealed, I was able to drop the lower oil pan in the truck, extract one of the studs for the pickup tube, which then made it possible to remove and reseal the pump with the upper oil pan on the engine. Not a good way to do it, but I didn't have to pull the motor. Still haven't put the timing set on...
I have gotten some time on the computer with the baby on my lap, and managed to edit together the time lapse of the old engine coming out and new going back in.
This is sweet, did you use gopro for footage? I had this same idea a few weekends ago but forgot to set my gopro up. How often is it set to take a pic?
You move a lot faster than I remember!
knockoff gopro, but yea. I don't remember what settings I used, once a minute, I think? I played with it a lot while working on another project to get something that was a watchable length.
Small update. This project has stayed on a back burner low simmer all winter. When I took the timing/oil pump off last fall, I was really unhappy with the condition of the wiring down the front of the engine (to crank sensor, both cam sensors, and one coil). So I decided to leave it apart and research my options over the winter. I found a reasonable source for new connectors, and made a brand new sub-harness. I put those in about a month ago, and put the timing back on, and it came to life! Open-manifold V8 noises are fun.
Got a 130a alternator from a newer UZ (looked up for an LS430, but I believe the Sequoia/Tundra, etc. use the same one).
20210427_173017 by Numbchux, on Flickr
I've been working on exhaust. RH manifold is basically done (need to do some heat shielding, as it's very close to the upper control arm bushing and transmission cooler lines).
2021-05-18_10-30-38 by Numbchux, on Flickr
Have a plan for the 2 primaries, into a 2-in 1-out cat that I pulled from my extra conversion van (there's an interesting phrase).
Next big project is wiring. To simplify the intake, I'm relocating the battery to the LH side, and replacing the factory under hood fuse box with all aftermarket. 2 JCase and one ATM fuse right next to the battery for the 2 circuits that go to the ignition switch and cabin circuits, and one for the alternator sense wire (Toyota alternator can compensate for voltage drop by having the sense wire as close to the battery as possible). 150 amp breaker next to the battery. The alternator is on the RH side of the engine, so using a dedicated 150a fuse on the alternator wire. A standalone radiator fan controller, heavy duty starter relay, and Bussman 10-fuse/5-relay fuse box to handle EFI, Ignition, High beam, Low beam, and an auxiliary circuit. These will all be mounted near the factory SC400 airbox, which will be where the battery used to be.
Saw this a week or so ago Matt...
Unfortunately since I used to work in healthcare I have associated the word "chux" with these:
First draft of the wiring diagram for the front harness. I've been drawing these up on the computer, and it's all of 6 pages, already. I figure I have about 100 wire terminations to make, between fuse/relay boxes, switches, and the rear diff lock controller.
20210518_165941 by Numbchux, on Flickr
Here's the simple sheet metal mount that I made to fit behind the SC400 airbox. This mounts to the same 3 captive nuts in the inner fender where the factory fuse box was, with room for so much more.
2021-06-07_09-18-53 by Numbchux, on Flickr
But the really exciting news. I got my custom etched rocker switch actuators from rockerswitchpros.com
2021-06-07_09-13-37 by Numbchux, on Flickr
I'm using all switches with an independent upper backlight (will be wired to the factory illumination circuit, so they light up just like the factory switches), and the lower light to indicate operation, the locker and radiator fan switches use an independent lower light, which will be wired to display actual operation of the circuit, not just the position of the switch.
Engine for the '01 Forester should show up today, so this project will lull a bit, but hopefully not too bad.
Those look like plans for world domination.