So I have my head all taken off and out to the machinist. Looking to order up my parts for the rebuild. Need head gaskets for sure, and bolts. My question is this... Should I do bearings while it's all apart? What head gasket should I go with? Sti? Stock OEM? Napa? Head bolts? Arp? Oem? Napa? I want this to be reliable more than anything. Don't want to have to go back in. The PO had a different Tbelt and pulleys out in. They all are new and shiney. Should I get new ones of those too? Thanks!
Honestly would go new everything. OEM head studs are more then good enough unless you have big power plans in the future. Never hurts to do new bearings while you are in there.
Corey, I would be happy to offer any help if you need it. While you are in there do it right. The heads are most of the work. Kind of tricky splitting the cases though if you haven't done that before. You WILL have to remove the pistons to do new bearings. Go with an OEM complete gasket kit ( about $250). If you don't do that for absolute SURE, use OEM head gaskets. Check the bore and piston sizes and re-ring or new pistons, your call. If you are not going crazy build, like Jason said, save your money and just reuse the head bolts. I have about 5 sets should you need any more. Terry
Please don't reuse your headbolts...I have only seen that cause problems. Technically those bolts are torque to yield, but IMHO I do not believe that subaru cylinder head design and especily headbolt design can stand a second re-torquing. You will feel a lot better knowing that your head bolts stretched properly!
I did not mean reuse stock ones I ment buy new stock ones as the stock ones are just fine as long as you have no crazy power plans.
I always reuse the head bolts. Never had a problem. Subaru does not require replacement. All they say is make sure the threads are clean and to lubricate the bolt threads with oil before installing
I personally dislike reusing high torque fasteners like head bolts. We get into metallurgy and fastener science with this subject, but really I personally prefer to chase all threads, use a combination of oil and fastener molly, and use new head bolts to ensure that the cars I fix don't come back with a problem. Required or not, its the best practice I use in my shop.
I use new head bolts because it increases the value of the car by hundreds of dollars, if not thousands!
Oem mls headgasket, ever heard of it? Worth the extra $? Apr head bolts over stock? I've never gone through a whole motor before, worth my while? The rotating assembly seems smooth and nice..
Yes, go oem mls or cometic mls, both grrat. Mls is why turbo models rarely get headgasket leaks. I'm a big fan of head studs, but they are a little more spendy than stock. Depends, imho, on what kind of power your getting into. Really, they can add clamping force, bur think of it more like fastener rigidity, under high load situations. But you arent exponentially adding clamp force, there comes a point when the head gasket can't crush any further and the cylinder head is as tight as its going to get without ruining anything. I have seen loads of overtightened head studs...really, its about the head studs ability to resisted combustion forces and not let the head lift.
Alrighty, I've been reading up a lot on these parts. Looks to me that I will be going with a oem mls headgasket for 65$. The bolts that came out of the motor had surface rust on them, and I really would rather not chance them. I can't justify 200$ + for ARPs, so I think I'll just stick with stock. Another 60$. Anyone know proper tty torque sequence?
Looks like it will be more then what I was quoted. Those were single sides, but after the mnsubaru discount it will only be like 190. Two new gaskets and 12 new bolts. Seems steep but will probably never have to do them again.
OEM head bolts are the way to go...don't buy felpro or anything else like that. Subaru has updated the headbolts set with different washer for the center two bolts. What motor is this , EJ22t? PM and I can send you a copy of the FSM.
Alrighty. This is going back together. Who knows these from top to bottom and can offer some help? The heads are torqued down to the fsm specs. The rest should be good.
Do you need to permatex behind the can caps closest to the tbelt? Easiest order to put a motor together, Ayer heads are on? How timing belt is done exactly, because I don't want to screw it up.