Thank you to everyone for welcoming to the group. I don't really plan on doing one of those build videos that show me taking off every nut and bolt but I will post photos now and then to update the group. Please ask me questions and I will try to answer them. I will also feel free to ask the group questions too. Here is the car when it followed me home. Here the car is stripped and almost ready for the cage. I still need to do some seam welding, remove the stock seat mounts and cover floor holes. I am hoping to have to RallyWorX in April for the cage and powder coating. Then I get to convert it to an AWD 2.5 RS.
The plan is to run the car in the non-turbo 4wd class with my daughter. The current plan for the car includes: 2.5 Motor and 5 spd manual trans from a 99 Forester. The Trans will have a 20Kg Center Diff with LS front and rear diffs. The suspension will be DMS rally Suspension. The engine will be refreshed by RallyWorX and include Delta 3000 cams. Together with the Cold Air intake, wide open exhaust and reflashed ECU. Any guesses as to what HP that should generate?
Looks like 165 crank HP stock. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Forester#US Some back-of-the-envelope calcuations: Assuming you can pull another 18% power from your modifications and accounting for 20% drivetrain loss, that puts you at about 156 WHP?
Stock pistons and compression ratio? What gas? Depending on the dyno, I'd say 200whp and 175wtq give or take assuming e98, aggressive tune, and that the same engine with the same trans/tires on the same dyno on the same day with the same dyno settings makes around 125whp/115wtq. Also, welcome and good luck with the build and race season!
I'm guessing 175awhp Careful with the CAI on a rally car, as you want to keep it protected from the water/dust. Also you'll need to run a cat and muffler to pass any rally inspections. What events do you plan to run?
I suspect that Steve knows these things, having been a national & club champion, and RA Steward for several years
Hey Steve! Super excited to see a rally car come together! I hope to get a car together this season and on stage by next season. See you around sometime!
The Rally Impreza is now back caged and powder coated! Now the hard work begins. However, I made a huge rookie mistake by not taking lots of pictures of the car before I took it all apart.
That's awesome, I thought I saw y0u trailering this earlier this year. I'm also in the elk river area.
Great - Feel free to come over and check it out. I plan on working on it at least an hour a day every day until its done.
Things are coming along on the rally car build. Tonights project was to install the AWD fuel tank and rear RWD subframe. One question came up as were finishing up. I had previously marked the unused Evap line. I looked at the 2 other lines that were left and realized that one of them is plastic. Is that the feed or return line? How do I connect that line to the metal line that runs to the engine?
Flip the key on and see which line starts spewing fuel There should be a quick disconnect connector on it where it clips into the chassis hard line that runs up to the firewall. The Evap and return don't have the quick connect on it, they are just clamped. At least that's how it was on my 98
No quick disconnect. The line just ends. Can I just use hose clamps to secure a rubber fuel line? Has anyone done this or is that not advised? I am open to other ideas on how to connect the plastic line to the metal fuel line? Thanks Steve
I can't picture exactly what you're looking at. But, I've clamped rubber straight onto steel for return lines before, but I wouldn't do it on a pressure line. On my 4Runner, I used compression-to-hose-barb adapters, but I think a person could use a flaring tool to put a bit of a bead in the end of the tube to lock the hose onto. There are nylon repair kits that have appropriately sized barb adapters and crimp-style clamps that you could splice into that side of what you have there. Typically found in the Help! section at auto parts stores.
I am starting to think down the road a little and plan ahead. What is the best or recommended method to tune the ECU? 2000 Forester ECU, Delta Cams, Header and open exhaust. We are planning to run premium fuel. What or where should I get the ECU reflashed or tuned? I want a more conservative tune. Take advantage of the upgrades but do it more reliably. Looking for recommendations on where to take it or do it your self reflash methods.
JM AUTO MN in Osseo for the tune. DB in rogers also does a great job. I am also in Elk River and a Subaru enthusiast.
Things are starting to come along. It is now an AWD Impreza. The wiring harness and steering wheel are in. I even bolted the drivers seat in place. It was very rewarding to sit in the car and turn the wheel. I didn't make any varoom varoom noises though. The engine and trans will be ready to pick up on Friday. Should slip right in when on Sat.
The Motor and Trans were delayed. So now I get to put them in on Wednesday. This weekend I finished the rear suspension, finished the aftermarket heater, wiring and plumbing and installed the dash. I even started powering up the electrical system.
It's official! The 94 Impreza FWD 1.8 Auto is now a 2.5 Manual AWD. We installed the drive shaft yesterday and filled all the fluids. I did pour brand new coolant all over the garage floor because I stupidly forgot to connect the heater hoses. The only issue keeping me from starting it is the fuel pump is seized. We started putting the doors back on too. There is still a lot of work to do and design but the Ojibwe rally at the end of August is looking good!
I am in Elk River and have a couple OEM WRX fuel pumps if you need one. Yours for free if you can use one.
Terry thanks for the offer but I bought one yesterday. Installed it and fired up the car for the first time. We will be working on the car all day if you would like to stop by and see it. Call me at 763 486-3442. Steve
Here are some pics of the current car. We still have a lot of work to buy yesterday was a big milestone as we started the car for the first time.
Why doesn't the stock upper Rad Hose Fit the Stock Radiator? I have the original Radiator from the Impreza and one from a Forester. I bought an upper rad hose for the forester by mistake and no combination fits correctly. I had to modify one of the hoses with a razor blade knife to make work. The coolant outlet from the engine appears to be in about the same spot on the 2.5 as it was on the 1.8. I measured as accurately as I can. Has anyone else seen this or am I missing something? Steve
Most aftermarket hoses are meant to fit multiple applications, and err on the long side. Pretty common to have to cut them down.
Things are really starting to come together. First the bad news. We have decided not to do the Ojibwe Rally. We are going to take that money and put it back into the car. We could have made it but that didn't allow any time for testing and tuning and fine tuning. I spent today with my neighbor who is a body guy getting a crash course in paint prep and sanding with the right tools. The Glass goes in on Tuesday, Exhaust on Friday and we spray the car Bright Yellow on Sat. Seems like an easy schedule! One issue that I am struggling with is that I need a drivers side rear brake caliber. Just a stock RS caliber nothing fancy. Does anyone have one laying around that you don't need? Here is the basic look we are planning with Yellow Hood and Roof Scoops and Yellow Wing. Should the mirrors be Yellow or Black? Steve
This post really belongs in the build thread. The car goes to paint next week at Frontier Autobody in Monticello. Once the car is Bright Electric Yellow and Hot Rod Black I will need to reassemble all the body parts. Once that is done it gets the new exhaust and DMS Rally Suspension. Then I start the tuning process. I still need to fit the skid plate and design and build the light bar Plus about a 1000 other things that I can't even think about right now.
