Quick Note: 1. You do anti-seize the **** out of everything. It doesn't help to use that much. 2. 20% is not accurate. To elaborate, the derate of torque is dependent on the lubricant type and amount.
1. 2. There is much debate on the amount to reduce torque...10% to 40%, none at all, etc. I picked a number in the middle. YMMV
Do you guys think threadlock (like normal Med or Blur) gives good enough anti-seize performance for those applications where you want/need threadlock? I've heard arguments both ways... I often go back and forth trying to decide if I want to put anti-seize or threadlock on a given bolt... We just need bolts with embedded RFID strain gauges for true applied torque measurement, forget the torque wrenches! I wonder if anyone ales something like that yet, I've seen wired bolts but
This is the mannslayer car in its present form. A buddy of mine bought it, corrected all the short cuts and now its at its full potential. The car is INSANE
Yeah! I read that Novak picked it up and converted it over - fixing up all the little imperfections. How well do you know the car? I remember seeing pics on the rollcage build originally when it was created and the welds looked half baked, but cage design looks the same now... did they make any changes there? Obviously now this car has a ton of money dumped into it! Actually - now that I look at that cage it does look different.. I would be really curious to hear what corners he cut - like specifically to what had to be changed because of the "half-arse" work
Also - what do you guys think about using this company for a steering rack - core charge is $30 (already included in price) and I would just forfeit that to keep the rack since I don't have a core.http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2007-S...Parts_Accessories&hash=item232afaa06b&vxp=mtr Anybody ever do this?
I know it well, but not REALLY well. Ryan lives in Torrance Ca. So I don't see him very much at all. He has quite a bit of info on his FB page under Novak Racing. (don't drool too hard over his new project) This is a bit of his build thread. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2421450&highlight=mannslayer LOADS of the thread has been erased. Seems the Mannslayer fan boys were quite pissed that Ryan was going more for function, than form.
Thread locker is useful in limited applications but not suspension/brake/chassis fasteners. A good place to loctite would be the strut collar nut but really only if you cant torque it to the defined spec. I think you might need an '04 rack unless you swap sub frames. Additionally, they posted a caveat to their lifetime warranty as per this post on Nasioc... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2622571
Nice find, that is good info to know! So, i like that fact that they are using OEM cores and it seems pretty legit - I might have to find a good used one first, if that doesn't work find a destroyed one and send to them for core. I think you are right though, since I have an 04 front subframe I think I need an 04 rack from everything I read.
I haven't heard of much in the way of steering rack failures although I am sure it happens. Based on what they said in the Nasioc post, I would guess that they wont give a lifetime warranty if the core is not rebuild-able (ie destroyed).
Updates! Got my first rear stay tacked in and started cutting and fitting the A Pillar portion. I bought this pipe notcher on ebay from eastwood and the thing is a beast! It makes the fitting so easy and just match it with the right metal hole saw.... easy work! So I have it pretty well mocked up, it is sucked in and contacts the A-Pillar in a few spots. I like this, but my only issue is that it is so tight and close that I can't fit my awesome speed hole punched A-Pillar gusset... oh well. I guess its more important to have as much reasonable interior room and tight fit to the body. It almost hides itself in the a pillar. I like it! I do fear thought that because its only like 1/4 inch from the glass or a bit less that that will be an issue? Thoughts on how its going? Ohh, and the downtube of the A Pillar bar is FAR forward of my knee...
I can't tell from the pics, but if the bars along the roof come close-ish to the roof, you may want to consider some sort of light gusset - just to prevent really annoying creaks/groans when the roof flexes enough to touch the bars. I am far far from a cage expert though, so grain of salt and all that : ) What are you doing for side bars?
for sure doing a floor brace to start and most likely an x brace in each door. I may or may not add the additional slanted a-piller support - I am a tallish- guy so crawling in and out is already interesting. Speaking of I need to cut down and re-weld the planted seat base too. Right now my head is out of reach of the bar but with some sever movement that may change. I want to suck that seat to the floor to clear as much bar as possible. Then I am going to thrash h-core in the seat in the garage and see if I can't hit anything with my head.
Make sure to wear the helmet you're going to where while driving, people have had to redo their seats later cause they tested clearance without a helmet on
That is great advice - will do! Man, I need to find time for this thing - hope to have both A pillar tubes and roof bracing in place this weekend so I can drop the cage through the floor next week for welding.
With the angle of the bend in your A-pillar bar, I personally would be thinking about putting in something to prevent buckling of the bar at the bend from a big roof impact... Like adding a short bar bridging the bend, as far apart as you can while still seeing the mirror : ) Here's some inspiration, this is for a hardcore rally car so it's probably a little over the top for you, but it's a very nice design - look at all the weld length strengthening up the X-bar intersection and the gentle bends... Lots of bent-V X-bars are terribly designed and will fold...
Anybody know if I can use a diesel 6 Speed with an regular EJ swap? The diesel 6 speeds are WAY cheaper
I think you can because the case is similar to the EJ series 6 speed. That being said, I think you are much better off going with an STI 6 speed over the diesel.
Gearing, center diff, front diff, cable shifter (vs linkage). Its a totally different transmission design. Its designed to handle higher low-end torque.
http://www.boxeer.com/ee20_parts - They are $2250 for the 6speed and $1200 for teh 5speed it looks like
Wow, I didn't know this existed! Maybe I should move my thread to this section of the forum. Project looks pretty awesome man. I have someone local that has a full 5 speed setup all the way down to the wheels if you're interested. I'm in the same boat, I think I'm going to run the JDM 5 speed I have for now. If I had more time, I would be inclined to sell you my setup for a good price and buy the 6 speed STi, but I do not have the time for that right now It seems time is against us both, congrats on getting married BTW! It's funny you and I seem to be kind of in the same boat, I'm not getting married but I just got engaged and home remodeling is taking a lot of my time too. I gave up a deck this year so I could have the time to build a GC8.
Yeah, I know! I started reading your thread and was thinking, "Wow, this is pretty similar, wild!" I have had to give up a few things but overall it hasn't been too bad, but my build is much slower than yours - you already have an engine and everything, I literally have a shell and over the next 6 months or so I should have all suspension, chassis, and footwork done so all I will need to do is drop in a power plant come spring and GO! I really do want a 6 speed, not interest in a 5 speed unless its built at this point, no offense to your build, just want to go all out with it. I was just curious about the diesel ones because they did seem a bit cheaper, but to be honest I am not much in the "test bunny" stage with this, just trying to build something that's been proven....to some degree. Where are you located? Also, updates! Small but making some slow progress! So I ordered this planted seat base.... to go with my planted angled side brackets and what do you know, their own products don't work together for bolt spacing!!! In any case, not much worry over that because look how high these sit off of the body's rails. I get that in a normal car you have to go over carpet and such, but its time to hack these babies up and get them flat to the ground. Remember my whole height thing? I am not super tall or anything but at 6'1" ish with a helmet and cage I need all I can get. by lowering this down I should be able to wedge the seat a bit farther back and if my measurements are correct, should have perfect seating position. Also took some time to wrap up tacking in other pieces of cage, everything is almost dead nuts on point, certainly visually excellent and fitment left to right is great, pretty pleased with it so far... I need to run by discount steel on Friday, I need another rear stay (cut the left one too short ) and a cross for those. I am going to just do one cross section of the rear stays, not an x here. Then I need to tack in the roof bars, 2 of them making a v and meeting with the point of the v at the windshield. At that point I should be able to double/triple check, tack a few more spots, then remove the feet and drop the cage down to/through the floor for welding the tops of all the bars. Then its back up and final welding... Also, does anybody know much about these? I have never run aftermarket latches/pins on any cars so I know nothing about these.... I would like to be able to get rid of my trunk latch all together, will these actually hold the trunk in place or is this "in addition to" OEM latches for trunk? Not my picture
Just like the saying, do it once, do it right....just do the STI 6 speed the first time around. The beauty of the 6 speed driveline isn't just the strength of the transmission, it's the magic differentials. And with regard to the trunk latches - I've seen them on rally cars before. Much like hood pins, they replace the need for the latch I believe. And much like my hood, I've never had my trunk randomly fly open lol.
I've like the rubber ones that I've seen used, it doesn't rub the paint off. For example these from Pegasus: 3030 Rubber Draw Latch - Small Tab Handle $5.99 In Stock 3031 Rubber Draw Latch - Medium Tab Handle $7.49 In Stock 3032 Rubber Draw Latch - Medium T-Handle $8.99 In Stock 3033 Rubber Draw Latch - Large T-Handle $12.49 In Stock 3034 Rubber Draw Latch - X-Large T-Handle $16.99 In Stock
Yup I totally understand the 6 speed thing. My last GC8 build had one and I loved it, the unfortunate thing is I have another GC8 I'm building and it gets a 6 speed before this one The one I'm buying has a 2-way mechanical center diff, the thing should be ridiculous on the track. That and time... god damn time. I live in Maple Grove, where are you at? I was actually going to ask you that as well, would love to see your setup and or have you over.
I ended up ordering some latches for the trunk, the rubber T-handles. I will risk it and if they need to be replaced in 2-5 years I will gladly do so for how inexpensive they are! In other news Cage is almost ready for final weld. Last roof bar goes in tomorrow night hopefully then I get to wrap it all up and paint! - Any body have any good ideas on how to remove all the surface rust (not too much luckily) before I paint? Thanks!
I really like Norton Speed Strip angle grinder disks, they're pretty sweet - but they load up so I'd grab at least a few depending how much area you've got to cover. I also almost bought a baking sofa pressurized paint/rust stripping setup, they're supposed to be awesome!! You need a stout air compressor , 8 or 9 cfm minimum if I remember right. Assuming you've got that, the rest of the setup is pretty cheap from Harbor Freight or similar.
Ohh Fine - So busy with everything going on - I am getting Married next week now so this has been on a hold a bit. But the soon-to-be-wife gave me clear to get a few more parts after our ceremony so hopefully suspension, brakes, wheels will all be undre the car and rolling on its own weight again. Cage will be finished in next 2 months before it starts getting too cold to paint Updated cage pics: THESE ARE PICS OF IT DROPPED FOR FINAL WELDING. IT WILL NOT SIT THIS LOW I had to drop the cage down to the floor to star final welding. I have completely welded 100% of each seam now throughout the car besides where it connects to floor because I ran out of wire - but i got more yesterday!!! So back on track! Last picture is the quality of my welds on all roof bars, pretty happy with how all the cuts came out and how I did welding! Using 25/75 Mix with .030 Wire MIG through a little Hobart welder. Also - I did switch up the focus a touch - I will be going for an road/tarmac/street car/time attack build. Not so interested in the dirt to any professional degree. I have modified cage design for easier access for entering and exiting vehicle.
I am for sure putting a low door bar that rides only 1/8" - 1/4" inch off the sill. Here is a graphical representation of what I am thinking about: The black boxes and circle represent tires The black bars represent everything already done The Red represents items that are for sure going to be done The Blue represents MAYBE items, but highly likely The green represents items that I am almost certain not to do
Hey Guys - I really need help deciding what to do about this 04 STI gas tank. I have the tank ready to go, accept for a few items. I really would like to get all the suspension on the vehicle which require the fuel tank to be put in place, but I need to know if I can put in place without screwing myself and needing to remove it at a later date... here are my concerns... Wiring Harness - I have a complete rear wiring harness from my 2000 RS, and I have a cut up one from the 04 STI. Which harness will I end up using? Also, can I put the tank in without the harness? Or does that totally screw me on being able to install it at a later date? I THINK I should be fine but want to double check. NO IDEA what I am doing for fuel yet- will cross that bridge when I get to it but I want to feel ok putting the tank in Thanks!
Sorry, I can't help ya with the gas tank questions...I still say fuel cell And the cage looks awesome...serious business!
Thanks Man! I know, fuel cell would be slick but that's another $1,000+ that has a small net immediate benefit for what I am doing and distributes funds that could be used on something like tires, transmission, engine etc.. Maybe some day but for now a baffled STI tank is not a bad option. Ohh...... And I did get a myriad of whiteline goodies, coiloves, and OEM bolts in.... pics tonight!
Just for reference and to play devil's advocate... in my GR, I get fuel cut at just under a half tank (even when it was stock suspension, stage 1) - granted that is on a long 100 mph+ right hander at BIR. In my previous GD wagon, I would get start to get fuel cut at about 1/4 tank...but that happened pretty easily. But it does depend on what you want to use the car for, and it will be cheaper to add a surge tank first vs. a full on fuel cell. What kind of coilovers did you get? I can't wait to see this thing in person...I should have stopped by just to see the car!
I would unpin the rs connectors, and put the wires into the sti connectors, unless the male pins on the tank pieces are different. Unless the connectors are the same. I like to keep things clean and only solder wires if I have to. If you need wiring diagrams let me know. Awesome build by the way. Also the jdm 5 speeds are supposedly bullet proof, but are probably paired better with a higher revving jdm engine.
