Id love any wiring diagrams that you may have, I need to verify on those. I am considering the JDM V7 or V8 full drivetrain swap now
Suspension goodies! I did the Whiteline rear lateral links and camber bolts with Feal Coilovers. All OEM NEW suspension bolts for everything including the subframe mounting, all mine came out ok THANK the lord - perks of being a barely driven care with not many miles on her! I am obsessed with www.speedhunters.com as well so I picked up some of their Takata tow straps too. Now before I hear the "suspension gods" jump on my back for these units hear me out. 1st, I am not going to ever buy $5-10k coilovers. Great for the hardcore track guy with that budget, not for me. I wanted inexpensive KNOWING full well that the quality may be iffy. Sounds a bit backwards but work with me here... 2nd. While doing my research the general coilovers came up, BC Racing, ST, Tein, Cusco, ISC, Ohlins, KW, Stance, the list goes on. I was not going buy uber cheap like a raceland, I like that ST were made by KW but having to purchase tophats separately and lots of reviews of clunking made me slightly hesitant. I know that they are a great coilover for the money from everything I read which made it tough. 3rd. I have owned a set of BC and of ISC coilovers on previous Subarus. Fine for the money, nothing terrible to say, you get what you pay for and what you pay for is an OK set of suspension that degrade in winter fairly quick. I wanted something a touch better. Also, this car will rarely if EVER see snow, its not my daily, and would be so terrible to drive in snow. Maybe just a cold day. 4th. I needed someone with some liability, someone I can actually hassle, complain to, and answer my questions....this is where Feal came in. I know that they personally assemble these. I know that is not made in America nonsense everyone claims even though all the pieces are sourced overseas and it really means assembled here. These are simply assembled per spec - They utilize BC racing lower mounts (reportedly some of the strongest of the coilover line ups) : Read this from Nasioc" "Odi, Other than Swift springs and Odi-spec shim stacks, are there any other upgrades from BC/K-Sport/Megan? Are you using their piston and adjuster jet/needle set or yours? Is the shock oil different? Do they have an external valve for nitrogen pressure adjustment? These have certainly captured my interest. The other upgrade are the components we selected. There a few important differences such as higher quality top out bumpers, piston bands, bushing tolerances... . I am not sure who the other brands have their dampers assembled by, but there are slight differences found in all of the different brands. Some small components can make a huge difference. Ultimately, the shim stack and spring selection will be the determining factor in how well a damper works. And the after sales support such as rebuilds and valving updates/changes is something that will go a long way. As for how these are charged with nitrogen. We charge them with a needle through a rubber valve like Ohlins, Hot Bits, ... Some of the other brands mentioned above use different methods of filling and sealing nitrogen. We are not trying to fool anyone with these lower cost coilovers. We found a reputable source for shock shafts, bodies...., and put together a package for those that want to spend less on suspension components. Yes, the majority of the parts are from Taiwan. We stock parts such as seals and bushings and perform rebuilds and revalves in house. We also warranty these for a year on a street car. Rebuilds for these are only $70 a corner for the original owner. The default valving for these is minimally digressive and super comfortable on the street. We feel like the best default spring rate for a daily driven GD with the Feal 441' is a 7K/5K. We used Swift springs because they are the rate they advertise, have tons of travel, and somehow ride nicer than anything else we test. Different spring rates and valving are available at no extra charge while placing the order. We have tested these on two different GD chassis imprezas. I really believe that the valving and springs will impress anyone that test drives a car with the Feal 441 coilovers." - Nasioc conversation from thread below. Owner Odi answering questions about his company, FEAL, coilovers. So after reading that here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2296352 I decided that look, these guys are the ones actually doing rebuilds on ALL of the cheaper coilovers, they know this stuff a lot more than just a retail shop slinging parts and going off what gets them their highest margin, and they actually come assembled and ready to install with colloars all locked down to spec, noted, and from a guy I can actually speak with......Sold. Nicest in the world, of course not, but I figure its LESS of a risk coming from them vs someone like BC. Maybe im way off....time will tell Here is my other project for winter, my garage is not heated and I started on this years ago - time to finish it so I can get some Kayak on!
Hey, no hard feelings from me! Feal offers a quality product from the limited amount that I know, and based upon the above dialog and service offering, it sounds extremely tough to beat. I almost wish that I would have gone that route! I'm sure you'll be pleased and if not, they can always adjust it for you.
No no, not at all directed at you. I just know how people like to "jump on board" and my thread becomes a disaster of groundless debate. I was hoping all the research I have done can prove to be somewhat beneficial for someone looking for what I was looking for. Quick Update. Cage Welding is completely finished. I need to sand sand sand now! Oh, and weld my seat base modification in.
Those Feals are just glorified BC coilovers?! :rollseyes: Seriously though, I dont think Feal's suspension comes into question and I am sure they are one of the best sub-$2000 coilover on the market. You are making great progress, don't let @DoughtCom 's insane progress make you feel bad. Are you still planning on a 22b body kit?
Haha yeah I know! DoughtCom is killing it, sheesh haha. Not sure on the body yet. I have fedner flares from a 240z I MIGHT run. Honestaly I am going to mount up th etank and suspension hopefully this weekend so when I get to finally hard mount the wheels in their final restin gplace, that will tell me how WIDE I really have to go!
Jeez I need to move my other thread into this category so I see when you update this. On the tank, the sending unit/pump plug is exactly the same. With that said the only thing that does not work on my car electrically is my fuel gauge. It worked before with the terrible/terrible wiring harness so my thought is the resistance is different on the GC sending unit vs the GD or something isn't lining up. The important thing is the fuel pump works! On the suspension. I like your choice in coilovers. I've been battling this for my two builds as well. I want an all around daily driver set of coilovers that will be good for my car. The thing is I'm having to wait until I decide on a suspension/drivetrain swap next spring. It will be great to hear how these perform for you. It looks like we're thinking the same thing for a swap, they seem to be getting cheaper on ebay. Also... and finally. I'm crazy, I never rest until a job is done and I'm not welding a cage or building a freakin' kayak. Or getting married, or any of the other stuff you're doing I do have 3 jobs basically, but eh... who needs sleep. I like your progress, this car is going to own. We'll have to meetup soon, Sjogun is a great resource and his car is super clean if you ever get to meet him. If you still need wiring diagrams still I have the 04 full factory service manual and the GC full factory service manual. Keep up the good work!
Maybe chech this thread? http://www.rs25.com/forums/f128/195034-gd-fuel-tank-gc-direct-swap-6.html Sounds like you may want to swap in a wrx/sti fuel tank if the RS one has fuel cut issues due to poor baffling like they say... Also yeah the sender/cluster and tank are probably calibrated for each other. I was also reminded by Sjogun's thread that you way want to consider getting an AOS BTW you know that you can "subscribe" to threads right?
Yeah I have read a lot about the tank, happy that I was able to source an STI unit for this. Great to hear on the only piece not working currently is the fuel gauge. We need to meet up - I need to make time in my schedule to focus on OTHER things besides work and sleep - and lately kitchen remodeling.....oofda Thanks you guys for helping with this - group effort!
It's super weird I am "watching" this thread because it has the "unwatch thread" at the top. I believe most forum software is setup to autosubscribe on reply isn't it? I just don't get emails for this thread most of the time, it's super spotty, not sure what's up. Hell sometimes I don't get them for my thread D: I'll check that thread, I did some googling last night before bed some and didn't find this so your googling skillz are surpassed mine I have an STi fuel tank chilling waiting to go in, so I'll do that probably in the spring. My AOS is the exact same one Sjogun has, I have it installed already Back to Se7enrex's thread! Feel free to meet up whenever, this weekend is bad for me but any other time this month is good (seriously), other than Tuesday nights. I can even drive out to you and check out your project.
When you reply there are two boxes: Watch this thread... and recieve email notifications Neither are checked by default, you have to check them yourself. If you check the top one but not the bottom one it will show that it's a watched thread, but you won't get e-mail notices.
Interesting... because I didn't check "watch". Nor have I on any of the other threads I receive periodic emails on. And both are checked now, again I didn't check these and I don't receive emails all the time. I did just receive an email about your response though.
Sorry that we're dragging this offtopic Se7en, but as a PSA there are a couple of settings under your Profile>Preferences: -Automatically watch threads that you create or when you reply... -and receive email notifications of replies Also under Profile>Alert Preferences, there are a number of options regarding what post actions trigger alerts for you. What you're seeing is probably some combination of the above settings on your account.,
Alright Everyone I need some help - anybody out there that can help me quick? I am using an 04 STI Fuel Tank I WANT to delete ALL EVAP equipment I want it to still be somewhat safe as far as fumes go Here is the tank as it sits - I unbolted the metal bracket on top that houses the sensor and solenoid. 1st Question. Are these both for EVAP? Here is the tank as it sits with that metal bracket flipped over but all connected still. I have marked both the sensor and solenoid with a RED X. Can I delet these? For the green line I would run those together. The blue blurbs represent those ports being capped. The purple would run up to the secondary Breather line on the filler neck and big QUESTION 2: Can I "T" the orange lines together and have vent right out back the car, connect them to the vent line that runs to the engine bay (Has multiple red "x's" on it currently in teh picture, or Cap them off/loop them? My only fear is if I do that there wouldnt be sufficient breathing. If I CAN run them and just vent out back, do I have ANY use for the breather line running up to the engine bay? (AGain the line marked with an X. AND I will gut the center white plunger valve if you think it would be advantageous. I think I NEED to if I am running it to the filler neck. Any help would be huge, Thanks!
that's for the mention - read through the thread but doesn't directly approach this in the way I need - it helps though! Anyone else have any first hand input?
A few things, I don't think that big tube is something you want to cap off. I believe that's the main purge valve, but I could be wrong. I would vent that to atmosphere (that's what I did on my last build). You won't have to worry about fume buildup if you vent it far enough back to not let it build up. As far as the fuel line going to the engine bay, it's mostly to do with emissions. I've read that it supposedly decreases fuel economy but we're building subarus to go fast, not to save baby seals. Here's some more useful info... btw I'm swapping tanks this weekend too, so I'll let you know where I net out. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2486013 http://i.imgur.com/saqcnu5.jpg
Gotcha - yeah let me know what you end up doing - are you keeping evap? If not I imagine you will be doing something similar here. I wonder what the heck I need to do with the oranges then too?
Did I give you this? It shows where all the vent/purge lines go. So you could figure out what is not needed. You do need a vent line though. Like Doughtcom said.
So ended up saying "eff it" yesterday and just swapped my sending units. Sorry man If you need any help though let me know.
Damn! Haha oh well. I still need to figure out what the hell to do....In the meantime.... I ended up chopping all the legs off the planted bracket. I will be hard mounting this to the seat (not welding but bolts.) However, I did not like the idea of not being able to move the seat much if I wanted someone of different size to ever drive the car. I will not add sliders, but I will have the capability of multiple bolt locations so conceivable my wife, brother, or friend could drive the car with some adjustment. I took some square tube stock and welding in an extra footing on the transmission tunnel and notched the seat mount on the side of the car in the rear so the tubing fit inside. I then welded the seat base from multiple angles to the square tubing and front seat stay. I then POR 15'd all the areas that were prone to corrosion as well as all high traffic areas (Around foot wells, door bars, harness bar, gussets (probably used as grab handles to enter exit car.) Then Bag and paint time, he we come white!!! Unfortunately (fortunately) I decided to add more dimple gusset plates to A Pillar bars (shipping currently) and a hydraulic E-brake so I get to cut back through and mess up a fair amount of the pretty white paint. I will be 3M clearbra'ing the cage in high traffic areas as well to protect it. (see harness bars, gussets, and door bars.)---That stuff is not cheap holy crap - already got a huge roll here! And suspension time - distraction from looming fuel tank issue! Ohh and I cut ALL brake lines out of car too....yikes!
Yeah things are moving along- slowly but surely! Ok- i need to get schooled on brake lines/fittings. Anyone ever run their own hard lines? I will be running hard lines from the master cylinder through the entire car. No abs- not sure if I care too much about the crossover pattern for line separation- will be running a single cylinder wilwood/isis hydraulic handbrake. Already fabbed up and started welding supports to the trans tunnel. I was going to run front two lines t'd together to front port on MC and rear single line into a proportioning valve (not sure which yet) then single line into the handbrake-then single line from handbrake t'd and two lines into two junctions into oem rear lines near the rear seat floor exit. I have bought the tools and am curious on sizes- I have read a lot and it looks like people are using M10x1.0 double flared fittings, and MAYBE 3/16'ths hard line. Is that sounding right? Any line material I should go after or watch out for? These will be going into V8 Sti brembos (same as 04 STI) and should I run an sti master cylinder and booster, just cylinder, or just booster? Or can I use the oem 2000 rs setup? Will it make a difference? Thanks!
Holy... poop. Well my knowledge is somewhat limited on brake lines/proportioning valves/etc. I have not run custom lines yet, I was going to roll with the stock ones for now, with possible modifications in the engine bay. Also kudos on the no ABS, that's how I'm rolling. As long as your proportioning valve is between the handbrake and the master cylinder that's the most important thing. Are you planning on gymkhana or something with this thing? As far as the booster, I've heard the STi is somewhat of a PITA to fit in between the firewall and the strut tower (this was from Fuji back in 2008 or something LOL), however I haven't tried it personally with mine yet. I will say this... with my first GC8 I had a MY99 RS 2.5 booster/cylinder installed with the 04 STi brembos and the stopping power was still more than the performance all season tires could handle... Not sure if it's the same story on something like RE11's, but that was with ferodo ds2500 pads and those tires. Anyway that's my limited knowledge on the matter. If you're around this weekend, I'm not doing anything... I would love to stop by.
awesome! That is actually helpful. I have run Brembos on an 02WRX before not switching anything besides the calipers/rotors and special brackets - so I imagine it should be fine. I bet there would be marginal performance upgrade when switching. My research isn't complete but I will mostly likely set up the hardlines in a manner that allows me to easily swap master cylinders/boosters with little issue. Yes, actually that's pretty funny, I was also thinking I might swing over this weekend! Either way Saturday morning-mid day or Sunday mid-day evening-either of those work for you? Now that you have a running car maybe you could drive it over?!
I'd actually rather have a single-stage booster than a dual-stage, better brake feel, if that's what you guys already have. What MC dia are you running?
But if either of you take out your single-stage booster and it's in great condition, I'll take it off your hands... One of my winter projects
Hey 7, came across this by accident, maybe it has some useful tidbits? http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t196374-diy-early-model-fuel-tank-sti-fuel-tank-swap.html
Some more goodies came and a little more progress! Got my long acre cage mount mirror- realized after I modified the oem one to fit with cage I couldn't get any screws in to secure it Then I stated working on my jdm bumper beam install and tow strap mounting locations..also got my rain light/ F1 rear light installed. Not wired yet but we will get there! And the best for last…............. Jdm V8 Sti 6 speed. I specifically chose this tranny, great shape, low miles, came with axles, clutch, harness , rear diff, driveshaft, and rear subframe! I needed a non viscous center diff and for a hydraulic e-brake the 04/05 USDM or V8 (not v7) will work great Now all equipment under the car is JDM STI V8 (essentially 04 STI) or aftermarket. Just ordered up a whole slew of bushings and OEM bolts too! Almost every suspension/bushing/bolts will be brand new under car, so nice to have a little extra confidence in it.
Yeah, when digging through some parts I actually found a brand new Group N mount the previous owner never installed.....SCORE! Its just been so damn cold lately and trying to get this thing set up has been a pain. I have to wrap up the Tranny install this weekend and re-weld in the seat base. I wanted to get it a bit lower for me to feel safe with my cage. I'll update then!
OK.... I need help. I am searching the onlineness desperately trying to find the information I need to make a couple decisions, decisions I do not want to ave to make twice. Here are the updated facts. Chassis is a 2000, Transmission is a JDM V8 6 Speed, Engine will be a built 04 STI drop in (forged and killer b goodness), fuel tank is a 04 sti. I am NOT running ABS. I am using a cluster from an 04 sti. I am using an entire harness from an 04 STI. 1. How do I get DCCD To work? If I don't care about getting this set up from start, can I just not deal with it and will it go into an automatic distribution mode? Will I harm it by not running anything for DCCD control? Because I don't have ABS I am worried it will be locked anyways. 2. I cant find information on wiring up the headlights/tailights, im sure I could if I search harder.... 3. What do I do about the door locks/remote - will I be doomed to manually locking and unlocking car form now on? If so that's ok, but will I mess things up by not having this be part of the system? 4. What do I do about wiring up the steering column controls with the 04 STI harness 5. How do I make sure HVAC are the plugs the same on the 04 STI as they are on the 2000 RS chassis? I know this all seems like I could search more - and I will - but if anybody has solved any of these pieces here locally I would gladly buy you a beer and learn more! Thanks!
Concerning DCCD: How do I get DCCD To work? Without the ABS system working, you can't use Subaru's stock controller. Look for aftermarket options like DCCDPro (I run one of these) or other controllers of that type. If I don't care about getting this set up from start, can I just not deal with it and will it go into an automatic distribution mode? The DCCD should defualt to a static 30/70 split and stay there. JDM systems may vary, but that's how USDM transmissions seem to work. Will I harm it by not running anything for DCCD control? Probably not, you'll just have an unused system in the car, similar to running without ABS.
awesome thank you! Do you run the dccd pro manual one or the more expensive spider? Also concerning the unused systems - yes - I see your point. I have deleted all ABS components and am running hard lines to each location. I want to make Dccd work eventually, but if I can throw that $300 into something that will get it on the ground and driving faster I woudl prefer to do that and monkey with Dccd later. Thanks!
I have a brand new DCCDpro automatic controller with OEM STI switches (and the ones that came with it) I would consider selling. I never got around to installing it. PM me if you are interested.
With the DCCD disconnected, the center diff will be completely open. It will default to a significant rear bias (I hate the number splits, as they are not accurate, at all...), so if you're on snow/ice, the rears will spin up very easy. If there is a significant slippage like that (basically, anything beyond dry-pavement "slow" street driving), it has been suggested that can cause extra wear on the clutches in the diff. The DCCDPro controller isn't expensive or difficult to install, put it high on your list. The manual one is kind of a pain (have to back off the lockup when maneuvering in parking lots and such), the auto version is definitely worth the extra investment. With the other issues, you have some deciding to do. Basically, if you plan to use the RS dash, use the RS bulkhead harness, and merge the STi engine controls into it. Then all the body circuits of the RS will work as they should. If you plan to use the STi Dash (like we did with #171 v2.0), use the STi bulkhead harness, and basically just splice the connectors on for the few remaining GC circuits (lights, doors, door switches....). The HVAC wiring is quite different between them, I think the RS still used mostly mechanical HVAC controls (cables for everything but the fan speed), so you might be able to make it work.....but IMHO.....don't bother. By the time you get the steering column, and other misc switches to all work....you'd have been better off just merging the engine controls into the GC harness. Power locks can easily be kept if you want. Just keep it all as part of the bulkhead harness. You may have some figuring to get the GD controller to activate the GC actuators if that's the way you end up going, but it's doable. I'm not even sure what you mean by it messing things up.....it's a standalone circuit, if it works, it works, if not....it doesn't.
Ahh man, that's helpful and sobering- every corner is another grand with this thing. Yikes. Well I have both full harnesses unless anyone local wants to do the wiring?!?!?!?!? I guess I'll hit up I wire
Doesn't doughtcom have a GD dash setup for sale? Maybe that would be worth it to make the integration easier... Between @Sjogun's access to OEM connectors/pins/tools/databases and @belalegosi's EE skills, maybe they'd be interested in doing it for some extra cash
Starting to look more like a car! First time on the ground since I started the project, feels real good considering the time and money in this thing. Almost every single suspension/ chassis bolt has been replaced with oem subaru bolts.... That's not cheap but MTKA Morries has treated me great! I also made an engine executive decision, after much deliberation I put a deposit down on an EJ257 04sti motor with forged internals and killer b pan/pickup - used motor but timing belt just done and gates belt- a guy bought the car and parted it out due to how cheap he got it. Also acquired some harder to get (these days) items- 04sti gauge cluster and 04 sti steering rack- I bought the L & E steering coupler and a bunch of whiteline goods to go with it. Also picked up a power steering pump rebuild kit to be safe and some new rack boots. Transmission is in- found a group N mount in my pile of parts and of course with all new bolts and some TIC bushings she is back in. Thanks to @DoughtCom my hoods on - just have to get the hood pins in. Also have to figure out where to mount my front tow strap as I have a jdm beam now and can't use that... Any ideas?
