Patient is a 2009 Impreza sti. It’s a buddy’s car I’m working on. Was just doing the timing belt for him. But he said while I was working on it (half way into the job) could I take care of these codes as well. Codes are in a screenshot he sent me. Question is, is there a test for the pump or the valves?(secondary injection system) He said he had the driver’s side valve replaced and the mechanic told him the pump was working. That was 8 months ago tho. But need to know if the fault code is coming from the pump or passenger side valve. I hate to tear off the intake and everything else and be wrong.
Well I put power to the pump and got nothing. Is there a delete kit that retains the barometric pressure sensor?
I found this suggesting kits exist that leave the valves in place so maybe? https://www.iwsti.com/threads/how-to-gr-air-pump-delete-photos.276425/
I did read through this post you pasted. Does anyone have any experience doing this? He’s just really paranoid that it’s going to cause a mess. I am as well. After reading so many posts on deletes there’s a lot of horror stories out there of problems the delete can cause. But I’m pretty confident he needs the passenger air valve replaced along with the pump. Probably close to the cost of the kit and having it tuned for the kit(after buying all the air injection parts) I’m no Subaru guru, or speed um up guy. I pretty much just work on early Broncos or stock daily drivers. So any suggestions from the the Subaru expert’s would be great! Oh also I’m in Rochester mn I have a car hauler. So Who should I drag this to to be tuned if we wind up doing a delete?
I would take it to jm automotive in maple grove for either take off good pump parts or the delete and tune.
I think with the current green speed initiative an air pump delete can’t be flashed out and the check engine light will remain with an access port. It would have to be an open source tune.
I deleted pumps on my 07 STI (same as 08+) and on my 07 STI swapped RS. Getting the baro sensor off isn't my idea of a good time, but isn't that bad really - it's basically just epoxied to the top of the pump so it's a matter of cutting/chiseling it out without breaking the sensor in the process. There are two little wires/prong things that hold it to the pump in addition to the epoxy - they can be cut, not needed. Once off, I just wrapped mine up with a healthy amount of electrical tape and tucked it away under the intake mani. And as was mentioned, thanks to @$$holes at the EPA, you can no longer delete codes using Cobb Accesstuner/Accessport (unless you know a guy who knows a guy)...so opensource is pretty much your only viable option - or a standalone ECU of course. I would estimate it would be cheaper to replace the pump (find a good used one?) than to delete it an get a custom tune ~$400-500-ish ...but maybe not! You've probably seen this, but explains the process briefly. No need to saw the pump in half though lol (Skip to 7:30)
