stage 2 + intercooler = holly shizlick

Shane did it at DB performance. I talked to him about it.

 

Ok, then it probably looks like the calibration of the dyno had changed -- perhaps one run used SAE correction and the other didn't? I dunno.

I simply cannot believe that your tmic would flow that much worse than the stocker, especially with a td04 only blowing a max of 16psi.

 

Tom you wanna molest a Forester

 

Do you think a little leak could cause this. I reused intercooler and BPV gaskets. I talked to Shane and they did not change anything with the dyno. The car drives fine, i am just so lost, don't know what else to do. Maybe it's something else, not interecooler related.

 

i can't tell either, but i'm a monkey when it comes to tuning. either way it looks like you're a prime candidate for a GM BCS...:yumyum:

 

what is IAM???

 

I don't think you have a leak judging by your dead-on AFRs and solid looking boost curve. Did Shane happen to log the maximum MAF reading? It should probably be something in the low 200+ g/s range.

 

Ignition advance multiplier.

It's essentially a % ratio of how much knock correction from the KC map gets added to the overall ignition timing.

On the 2.0 WRX, an IAM of 16 means that 100% (16/16) of the available extra timing from KC will be added to the base timing.

 

i honestly don't know. I happend to drive for 2o miles or so before dyno, i don't know if that even a problem? I am just going to be one weak WRX with stage 2 set up.:emo:

 

i believe there is a trick where you can advance your IAM right away...dont remember what its called tho

 

vinshu reset

 

Or you can just drive the car for like 3 minutes and watch it go up, lol. The Vishnu reset is yet another one of those retarded NASIOC things that gets thrown around by people who don't know wtf they are really talking about.

 

i never said it worked but i just heard about it

 

Well, unless his tune was severely bastardized, his boost control would be disabled if his IAM was that low.

After looking at those dyno plots, I vote for this. Other then the "low" total numbers, the dyno plots look like the tune is running perfectly.

This is true for IAM. Mine will run up to 1.0 after about 5 seconds of boost after a flash.

The so called "vishnu reset" does speed fuel learning on the 32bit ECU cars, however.

 

Put the other intercooler back on and go back and see if anything changes since thats the only thing you changed since your last dyno run. If its the same low number, then you know DB messed with the dyno, if it goes back to your higher numbers, then its your intercooler. Problem solved.

 

Such a concept...

How did you ever come up with this idea? BTW, how is your STi intercooler going?

 

I tell you what. I had to gasket MATCH the TMIC. It was off and was LITTLE. I opened it up and also ported a little bit of the pipes.

If I could get a GOOD TMIC that's sufficient for my BIG 16g, I'd do it. '08 STi TMIC?? Or Spearco??

 

Just an idea I'm going to put out there...

When you're defroster is on, you're ac compressor is also driven a little, to dehumidify the cabin air. (unless you mod that feature).

Anyone know how much HP loss that would cause (having the defroster on)?

 

About 5 if that.

They're so efficient that's a moot point now.

 

:biggrin:

Intercooler is doing great, im loving it

 

its turned off under WOT

 

I've seen IAMs of < 4 on certain cars that still had non-disabled boost control. Yes, it looks as if the control will shut off when looking at the ROM, but I've seen instances first hand where that simply wasn't the case. I'm not sure about on the DBW cars since I've never seen it drop below 0.60 or so.

Besides, if your overall timing control sucked enough where you would see the advance mult. drop to below 25%, you probably wouldn't even have any idea that boost control can possibly be disabled when the mult. reached a floor, hahaha.

 

Hrm interesting. I guess I've never seen a 16bit tune with IAM that low, but assumed the logic worked as advertised.

 

Yeah, it kind of took me by suprise the first time I ran across that situation. I remember thinking to myself, "wtf? why is the car running 13psi still?!?"

 

I think i solved my problem or have other solution to it. The last time i Dynoed I had my stock 16" with 205 tires and now I have kind of heavy 17" with 235 tires wheels. I just don't know if this could cause such a dramatic drop in hp.

 

probably not your problem, i dont think your rims costed you maybe 25-30 hp

 

It's an interesting theory though. I wonder how much unsprung rotating weight really takes away from hp. Someone on the interweb has to have a fancy spreadsheet on it.

 

man if that was the case most people on this site would have superlight weight wheels

 

Agree'd!

 

Not weight, but tire size has a very large effect when calculating torque/HP on a dyno. Think about the physics involved when you change the radius of a circle, and how that effects the calculating torque at the center.

This could very well be the cause, if DB's dyno was calibrated for a smaller wheel size.

 

They should be calibrating speed vs. RPM every time they put a new car on the dyno so the dyno can correct for different gearing/tire circumference. The amount of affect wheel weight has would depend on how fast the dyno allows the car to accelerate which is usually pretty slow with modern electrically loaded dynos. I'm sure whomever builds these dynos has thought about this more than us.

 

I know my butt dyno shows a pretty substantial loss of power/acceleration with my summer wheels on as opposed to my stockers(17x8 rota torque w/235 40 17 hankooks). I'm willing to sacrifice a little scoot for the much larger levels of grip, but If i spent all my time drag launching the stock wheels would have stayed on.

 

Yes, but it's possible Shane used the previous calibration for the OP's car, as it had been run before. Using the previous calibration with larger wheels would result in lower numbers on the dyno.

 

I dont think the acual diameter of his new wheels are far off from the stock setup.

 

Yeah, for some reason I thought the 2.0L WRX's came with 205/45 wheels (which would be significantly smaller then 235/45/17's), but 205/55/16's are only like 1.5% smaller then 235/45/17's.

 

So have you figured it out yet? I'm very interested in seeing the outcome since I just bought one off ebay a couple weeks ago.

Do you remember which one it is?
Is it the same as this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-0...019QQitemZ290220296057QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

It's not an intercooler. The car feels and trives fine. I think it was something with thier dyno. Taras loged into my WRX and we found nothing wrong. That's the one from ebay. It works fine, I think.

 

Have you thought that your motor might be going? Take your new intercooler off and check for oil. Compression test!

 

We logged the car and as far as i could see there was no problem with the car a/f learning was within 3% so most likely no leak. The car did not knock and ran fine.