Whew. Motor together, clutch on, and in the car. It always takes longer than I expect when I do it by myself. I probably spent an hour putting the clutch on the motor, figuring out a good method to keep it lined up and all. There is definitely a knack to doing it quickly. Lining up the motor to the trans was fun too. It took a lot more adjustments than usual to have it slide together. Soon I should be able to start the fun stuff. Modifying the pipe set for the turbo *shouldn't* be too bad, since I'm not starting from scratch.
This stuff is pretty neat. It's like a big roll of masking tape, but with the adhesive strength of slightly more than post-it notes.
I can't paint until its at least 60 degrees at night, so it might be a while till the car is drivable.
I messed with the fuel system until I ran out of fittings. The lines need some bracing, but that's roughly how they will play out. A couple hose-ends and some bolts for the Y-block and it's there.
Brake line fun! It's actually not that bad with the proper tools. I had to plumb the proportioning valve before moving ahead with piping. As the valve sat in the stock position, the brake lines inhibited mounting a good sized turbo in a rotated position. Moving the proportioning valve to the front of the strut tower gives me around three inches of extra room. I came up a little short on the last line since I was trying to use pieces from the engine bay lines from the old car. I need about two feet of line to finish it. I'll get it tomorrow. Now I just need to figure out how to hold a 40 lb turbo in place while I plumb it. I think the engine hoist, a home made bracket, and a ratchet strap or two may be involved. Practicing with the new inverted flaring kit...
Looks pretty damn factory to me! Brake lines are easy, I don't know why people are so afraid of them so often.
It takes a little practice to get the flaring down, but its not a big deal as you said Max. Quality tools help. Stringing longer stretches of line with many bends could get tricky though.
not when you use the stuff you did.. bends by fingers... normal stuff sucks ass... bend it wrong it is a PIA to put right...
The turbo is clocked and together. I do not have many pictures, but clocking this turbo is quite involved. Since I'm limited by the vane system, there are only nine possible positions I can clock the turbine housing. After a lot of rigmarole, I got it together. The vanes and unison ring were cleaned up with carb cleaner and 1500 grit paper. The turbine housing was treated the same at the vane posts and where the vanes slide. After that was done, I had to drill and cut a new spot for the alignment pin. After double and triple checking, I drilled a hole and then cut, reamed, and filed the rest of it out like the OEM slot. The rest is isn't too big of a deal, but lining up the pin and the arm that actuates the vanes took a few tries. Anyways, she's ready for some piping. It will be interesting when I try to hang a 45 lb turbo where I need it to plumb. I think the engine hoist and a couple ratchet straps will be in order.
Naw. That's how I got it from Matthew. It isn't at the angle I need, so I'll cut it off and weld on a new elbow. I'm just not going to cut it off until I know exactly where i need to cut.
Odds and ends before I rework the pipe set. The lame factory power steering lines are in the way of having fun, so they needed to dealt with. I still need a fitting or two, and to possibly remake the low-side line, but that's about how it'll play out. Tons more room for neat stuff. It wasn't expensive to make new lines either. I've got less than $80 into the setup. Your local Eaton/Aeroquip industrial supplier is your friend.
did the shop you went to have the actual fittings to go on your power steering? Jay at northern couldn't get them so we cut and extended my stock ones.
No, and you're not likely to find them without serious time and digging. The Japanese seem to like to do things different with their fluid conveyance. Anyways, on the bottom end of the high side line, a 5/16" Versil-Flare works on the steel line, which is a fitting that crips directly on to the steel tube. On the rest, the tube OD is .390", which is .010" too large for the 3/8" Versil-Flare. I welded some -06 fittings onto the steel tube instead.
The makings of a fuel surge tank. After a conversation or two, and some other digging, I decided it would be a good idea to have a fuel surge tank. I happen to have some material laying around, so it shouldn't be too bad expense wise. I have some 3/16 aluminum laying around, so I'll make a tank out of that. I know its a bit overkill, but free material is free material. Also, I have some aluminum tubing here that taps out to a 3/8 NPT beautifully so that'll make my connections. I'll use hydraulic hose and steel fittings like I did with the power steering to keep the cost down. Basically, I need a Bosch 044, some line and fittings, and to do a little welding. With the trouble Subaru's can have with fuel delivery below 1/2 tank, I think its a good idea. Here are some materials laid out. With those pieces, the surge tank should be about 3 liters, which is plenty large.
Pieces are cut and ready to weld, except for a little sanding yet. Once welded together, I'll pressure test the tank to find any leaks. There are four ports on the tank. One at the bottom rear of the tank will be to the secondary pump that feeds the engine. The top port is the return to the tank. One near the top is the return from the engine, and the last port up from the bottom port is the feed from the main fuel tank. This keeps warmer fuel from the engine return near the return to the main tank. The feed from the main tank is above the engine feed to allow any air to get up to the top before the fuel makes it to the feed.
Fabbed an uppipe today. It was a pain, to say the least. The turbo is too heavy to use my normal method, so I had to use the engine hoist to hold it in place. I made a bracket to place the turbo where I wanted it, which took about two hours, lol. After that, I made the uppipe which was a tight squeeze with the angle I needed. The turbine housing is only clockable is 9 places, so my options were limited. I need to add another bracket, since this turbo weighs over 30 lb. After that, I'll rework the downpipe and make new wastegate plumbing.
I guess my stock turbo weighs half of yours or less...I like the way you are keeping the engine bay clean! Is that a 3" downpipe?...looks small for that bigboy. Also thought it would have an EWG:dunno:
One thing at a time. After I finish the downpipe, I'll add the wastegate plumbing. It is 3". I would like 3.5 or 4" exhaust, but this will do for now. We'll see where it gets me and then I'll make a decision whether or not to jump up in size.
Yeah, my car now is probably only double-digits.... hahaha So I feel for you. NEW it poop out 110 HP. Add 30 years to that equation...
I've never spent eight hours doing so little. Plus, 35lb turbos kick my ass in the humidity. I took the turbo in and out upwards of ten times to get the wastegate feed figured out, since it is such a tight fit. Grind a little, refit, grind a little more, etc. Anyways, the wastegate has a home, and I just need to finish the bottom of the downpipe and then the wastegate dump. The dump will run across the bottom of the turbo to the flexjoint currently on the DP, unless someone happens to have a shorter one (1.75") laying around for cheap.:hs: Also, everything will be wrapped since it's a tight fit and my MIG welds are a bit on the ugly side. They'll work, however. Never had one crack in five years for messing with this crap.
Finished the wastegate plumbing today. That went much smoother. Reconnecting the downpipe will wait until I make a new intake, rework a charge pipe, and paint all the aluminum stuff.
Definitely. I'm just wrapping up the pipe set changes for this turbo, then a little bit of wiring and other ancillary hoses, etc. Paint will be the big thing. We are discussing our plan of action for the paint. Two or three spray sessions is the main thing. When I put it back together after paint we will wet sand and buff the car.
you using gas with that MiG?? if so what gas? try running it a little hotter in the voltage and maybe wire speed to flatter/wet the weld out... or come to my house and grind it down and run some smoother beads.. looks good?? you around you place tomorrow afternoon??
I work tomorrow afternoon. The gas I'm using is C25. I am running it pretty hot. I just lay dimes, so it might not look the prettiest since I do a half-overlap each time I lay one down. I do get a fair amount of penetration though. The wire I use is low-carbon, and I've yet to have an issue with 1700 degree exhaust. I asked for a TIG welder for my birthday though:laugh:
but you dont want too good a penetration on the insides and I would say if it aint sizzling like bacon when you weld then you need adjustments... you should be able to tack it, then run a full weld in 2-3 sections that would look like a robot welded it.. especially on fresh tubing.. (doesnt always go as planned ha ha a)
Keep in mind this is 16 gauge tubing, so the puddles are quite wide. I don't get too much drop-through on the insides. I used to when I ran a single bead though. Lots of crispy mountains on the inside. With this method I get pretty good penetration but keep the garbage on the inside down. It's tough on the tight spots to get the gun in there though. I'm gonna need to weld a bunch of aluminum in the near future, like near the end of next week. However, I'm sure you could show me a thing or two if you were bored some night (or day) and wanted to stop by. I have plenty of scrap to burn up, lol.
Big turbos need big intakes. I ran over to Fobia's since he was home during the day today and welded the tubing together for my intake. One of the welds is ugly, I know. The arc was moving around on me and I couldn't figure out what was going on, so I reground the tungsten and it fixed it. I'll grind it down and go over it to make it pretty. I'm looking at filter options, but I'm limited by space. K&N does not publish flowrate capabilities of their filters, which is quite annoying. There are other options though. The 4" piping fits behind the fender quite well, surprisingly. I still need to add a bracket for the in-fender portion, and a bung for the PCV system. I'm no professional, but I seem to be getting better. More seat time = nicer welds. I've done better than this, but I was a little hasty and didn't clean like I should have, and the gaps could have been smaller.
