the axle springpin shouldn't cause any noise. I frequently run without them... anyway, great progress. I started cleaning up my EJ22 tonight. boy, I don't think it'll ever look as good as your motor does!! good work!
Today was a lot of cleaning, and waiting for the nice UPS lady to show up. My eBay timing belt kit came in and I am very happy with the quality. It was purchased from The Import Experts on ebay (they also have a website). Since they have a brick and mortar store they have a phone number posted on their website. I was able to call and arrange expedited shipping. They were a pleasure to deal with and I would highly recommend them to anyone. (They show as shipping from Washington State) I am having a hell of a time with the rear main seal. It took up most of my night so I finally gave up. Here are the pictures: Cleaner cross-member Clean Power Steering Pump Cleaned up PS and Alt. tension bracket. It was pure black when Is started New idlers installed Timing Belt on. The orange RTV is to help hold the rear cover in place since a few bolt locations were broken Back together Ready for a new rear-main seal
I think so. I have a different timing cover now. AFAIK it's it's quite common and I think mine was scraping because the cover was sticking out just a bit.
Looks great! I have the perfect little round thing for installing mainseals. So simple! You wanna borrow it?
Well it's been a very long night (Didn't finish until 4am) but I managed to get the motor back in. What a PITA. It ended up being myself and two friends who aren't so much into the car thing, but enjoy getting dirty once and a while. I borrowed a under drive pulley from someone locally and it worked like a charm on the rear main seal. None of us had put a motor in before, so it took much longer than it probably should have, but we finally managed to get it done. I'll hopefully have everything back together tomorrow or Monday and fire her up and see what happens. I'm fairly nervous to see if it runs properly or if I b0rked something and the **** hits the fan. Is there anything special to do before running the car since it's been totally drained of all fluids? Do I just fill it up with coolant, oil, and PS. fluid then fire it up? Any tricks? Here are just a couple of pictures
nice work. looks great! before you fire it up, it's a good idea to prime the oil system. so un-plug the ignitor (I usually unplug the coil pack on my car....but the EG33 is COP...), and crank in ~5 second bursts until the oil light goes off. I even do this after changing the oil..... also, if you haven't already. turn it over by hand a few times before you hit the starter. the only catastrophic damage that can be done after a partial rebuild, is if you got the cam timing off and the pistons hit the valves (IIRC, EG33s are interference.....). if you're turning it over by hand, you'll notice, and you can get it fixed before any serious damage occurs.
Great work and thread matt. it was weird reading something actually technical on this forum. I hope it pans out and runs like a champ for you.
It would have been easier to leave the hood off for now, but with the home-modified motor mounts I was concerned that the engine might be sitting up a bit too high. Turns out it wasn't. Plus, I wouldn't want to think about trying to put the hood on by myself.
Well, good news and bad. First the goo. She starts up and runs The bad. At first I was getting a tran. code 22 which is "Atmospheric Sensor." After pulling the code, it seems to have gone away??? But the car seems to be in limp mode. I can't rev over ~3k or I can hear a relay trip under the dash and a fuel cut (at least I think that's how the car does it). There is no CEL, and there are no codes showing up when I try and pull them. Any ideas?
hoses and electrical connectors - stuff not hooked up or hooked up to the wrong place. That's obvious, though. What did you end up doing with the EGR, could it be related?
It very well could be related to the EGR stuff. The way it was explained to me was to leave the solenoid hooked up, remove the EGR assy, plug the exhaust port on the header, plug the port on the intake manifold, and jump the two vacuum ports on top of the throttle body (one over each butterfly valve) Then leave everything else alone.
Did you check all your ground connection and made sure they have a clean connection and are solid? You're missing the attached Youtube video as usual. LOL
Since you asked, video is on the way. It appears that the Code 22 "Atmospheric Sensor" just came back when I went to shoot the video. That's what the 16 blinks of the "Power" light are.
the way the tach jumps around, makes me suspect something is goofy with the crank or cam angle sensors. but I'm not entirely sure, but that's sort of like what my wagon did when I had a bad signal to the crank sensor (and no, it wouldn't always throw a code). I'd double check those plugs, and make sure you've got a good, solid connection at all of them.
Even if it didn't throw a code, shouldn't it be acting up below 3k? The video doesn't show it well, but it behaves perfectly below 3k. And it's the ECU triggering the fuel cut I believe since each time I can hear a relay trip.
Have you double checked to make certain that all of the sensors on the manifold are plugged into the harness?
it would seem that it should act up throughout the rev range. but when it happened on my car, it didn't. it would idle fine, and rev perfectly at very low rpm. but as soon as it received any load, or went above a certain rpm, it would stumble. I don't remember noticing a relay click off though. that's very strange. I suppose it's possible that it get's a momentary bad signal that triggers the overrev fuel cut......:???: It's not a 100% diagnosis, but every subaru that I've had had the tach jump around like that has been a CAS issue of some sort. as there is no way the actual engine speed is changing that quickly! when it happened to my car, it wasn't a result of a bad sensor, just a bad signal (crappy soldering when I lengthened the wires, to be exact...). so just double check all the plugs, and make sure they're all clean and plugged in completely.
I think I fixed it. I win the dumb *** of the year award though. There was a ground location on the back of the intake manifold that I had forgotten to tighten all the way down. Tightened it and poof everything went back to normal. So now I must come on here and hang my head in shame for dismissing people so quickly with the connection comments. Anyway, here are a few pictures.
