Shoot me a pm of what you are looking for and I can get back to you after this weekend. I am heading out of town tonight so I won't have a chance to look anything up. Russ
When I looked at Fleet Farm I couldn't find the 75w90 gear oil, but then again I didn't look too hard. LMK if you find it there. -Steve
They always have it. It's by the farm tractor oils. It's generally in singles up on the shelf, not a box on the floor like the motor oils. Look around. They have it stuck somewhere around the oils area.
So...... should I switch from my M1 to Amsoil too? Right now I'm running 15w50. I rev my motor up to 7500rpms and I do drive it hard. I brake boost quite a bit yadda yadda. However I do change my oil 2500-3000miles. I have noticed that if I drive hard, I lose more oil than if I was to drive light. So far so good. I've only noticed power changes with the day/night changes. Should I change to it this spring after the rebuild?
The rebuild will just be simple CP pistons, STi rods, ACL bearings if not stock bearings, revised WRX 2.0L crank on my 22T shortblock, Spec C cams/valve springs, 12mm oil pump; nothing serious.
My oil change is due. I think I may try the rotella 5w40. I run M1 in my 170k Crv and lose no oil, but I may switch to Rotella for my wrx.
Flip a coin? :laugh: Do you really run 15w50? I assume this is not during the winter or at least starting from a heated garage if anything. 15 weight's mighty thick when it's -20F out. Mobil 1 does have a 5w50 though. At least you'd be starting with a 5 weight oil there for happy cold weather use. I decided to look at some of the oils that Mobil and Amsoil sell. I attached some of the oils and viscosities. Amsoil 0w30 and Mobil 1 0w30 are pretty similar, but colder Amsoil wins out with a lower slope. It's also interesting that the Amsoil 5w40 is about equal to Mobil 1's 0w40. There are also some cold cranking test values too that I didn't include, but the oils are tested at -30C or -35C to represent cold cranking viscosity. Mobil 1 tends to be more towards 20,000-30,000 and Amsoil more like 5,000-6,000, showing it to be a good bit easier for starting in the dead of winter.
I run this for a few reasons. When running the engine hard, this thicker oil doesn't foam up at higher revs. Also being thicker, it'll withstand higher engine heat especially with the hard driving I do. I only run this now but I will look into the lighter stuff in the winter. I did check my oil and it is 1 qt low. This is after a handful of hard driving daily though. I don't expect it to stay 4.5 qts from start to finish. Hard driving will ALWAYS burn some oil. Vacuum and the vacuum hoses suck up oil at higher revs that's why there's oil in your turbo/TMIC etc. The PCV, etc. I'd like to just keep the valve cover and crank case all to itself so the engine always gets healthy fresh air instead of fumes from the crankcase. But yes, I like my 15w50
I run rotella 10w30, and its been rocking my socks off. I haven't burned any oil and that car gets driven hard everyday.
Foaming isn't a thickness property as far as I'm aware of. It's more of a design issue with additives.
mr. Nuke and I are both running the Shell R on our cars equiped with boost, and I have ran it on both of my cars.
I also run 15Weight oil since I only drive it in the summer thicker oil doesn't thin out as much as 5W or 10W.
I, on the other hand, use nothing but Synpower in the FX, STi, and the RS. Nothing but love for the Valvoline oil.... Obviously, my $0.02
Thinner oil would actually foam less, but it doesn't really matter. Unless you overfill it so the crank hits the oil, you shouldn't have a foaming problem. Before I had to go through my motor, I used NAPA/Valvoline 10w30 for the first 10k and went to M1 after that. After tearing it down, the rings were perfect and the bearings had no issues related to oil.
ok here is some outside feedback i got today "Did a quick look Shell Rotella 5W40 is primarily designed for truck and diesel applications, however, they do approve it for gasoline engines. Secondly, it is one of those "synthetics" that is not a true synthetics. Its base is a XHVI group III, which means it is a highly refined petroleum product. Mobil 1 is a PAO base group IV, which is a true synthetic product." also what about the oil information on - www.motoroilbible.com
Do you mind if I ask why you're fixated on synthetics? Not meant to be a dig at all, just curious. Trust me when I tell you that the Rotella will be much, much better for your car than anything marked Mobil 1.
I have a close family member that is pretty insane about oil. he has been doing research for the past 7 years. looking at the break down periods. the reason i brought this up was i know that the beter the liquid the better and longer my engine will run. i like the info on rotella - but it is one of the oils that sued for the right to be called synthetic even though it isn't.
i think i'll pick the happy medium. my source says AMSoil or M1, because they are both true synthetics. every thread i have read today says AMSoil or Rotella. sounds like AMSoil is the way to go.
+1 for rotella. i switched over to it recently from m1. my car feels a lot better with rotella in it.
I buy all my Rotella T at Wally World. Rotella T 5w-40 was recommended to me by a guy that builds Subaru motors in Las Vegas. He did oil analysis on it vs. Mobil 1 and a couple other oils. It had the best properties with regards to wear and tear, and breakdown. Mobil one turns to watered down crap very quickly. If you run it in your WRX, you'll notice that around 2000 miles your car doesn't feel the same as it did at the time of your oil change, and at 3k when you do your oil change, it'll feel like a whole new car again...till 2000 miles. And repeat. With my built motor and setup, the engine feels consistant the entire 3000 miles between changes. And everyone that I've recommended it to has fallen in love with it (ask Musashi). Also, Rotella-T 5w40 HD is a true synthetic, not that it matters, what you need to care about is the wear properties and the lifespan of the oil. You could put pure synthetic oil in your car all day long, but if you are getting excessive wear on the pistons/cylinder walls and the oil is turning to piss quickly, then the whole synthetic thing becomes moot. I will never switch back to Mobil1 as long as I drive cars. Any sports oriented vehicle I own that recommends 5w-30 will get RotellaT 5w40 until they stop stocking it on the shelves.
this is not true. it is a refined oil where they try and refine it enough to take the larger molecules out of the oil. these are the ones that break down quickly in regular oil. They only try to leave the shorter molecules. they actually took this to court saying that because they change the molecular structure of the oil it can be classified as a full synthetic when it really isn't. amsoil is a full synthetic.
Rotella was made for diesel engines which see a much much much harsher environment than our gas engines. 16:1 or higher compression and over 30psi, not including the soot. I will from now on run Rotella in my aggressive engine. Just take your time on your mods. I understand that you want some rubles off the bat. $800 is a bit steep for a catback imho. If you can wait a month or two, you can get something nice for waaaay less money. Patience is a virtue in this world. I've been modding my car for almost nine years now. Sounds like DarkDan is your family member. We had a little snit and I will never post on fivezeroseven again. That is all.
yeah I am not saying it is bad. I don't have anything to go on because i have never used it. i was just saying that it is labeled a synthetic because of some fancy lawyers won a case so they could market the label that way. don't know who this person is. no my family member is like 50 and doesn't really do the forum thing.
And Group III base stocks are still consider full synthetic. Again, it doesn't matter about whether it is "full" synthetic or not in this regard. Also, just because an oil uses Group IV base stock doesn't mean it is comprised entirely of Group IV base stocks. It is still blended oil. And if you want to split hairs, here's a fun tidbit for you about Amsoil... read this first: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_Base_Number specificly this part: Amsoil Premium 5w-40 TBN = 8.0 Rotella-T 5w-40 TBN = 10.6 So for half the cost, Rotella is going to have a better ability to suspend crap in your oil. Also, Rotella-T 5w-40 is made with the same base oil that Helix Ultra is made with. They use that in Ferrari Formula 1 cars. Stop worrying about the base stocks of oil, as not all base stocks are created equal, and base stock isn't what the entire quart of oil consists of. Just because they say the juice uses pure florida orange juice concentrate, doesn't mean the entire jug is filled with 100% Florida Orange Juice concentrate. They could have topped off that orange juice concentrate with raw sewage. I'd much rather drink 10% juice concentrate with 90% clean water.
I run Valvoline syntech any thoughts or feelings on that? I drive a 1997 Legacy GT that has 130,xxx miles on it and has only seen synthetic for 30,xxx when I bought the car. Also I am currently using a Mobil 1 oil filter and thoughts on that as well? Just wondering if I should change oil and/or filter?
I'm not an oil filter expert, so don't go quoting me, but this is what I learned from shibbs. I personally use a Purelator Pure 1 filter. It's about half the cost of a M1 filter for, from what I was told, the same stuff. I'll let shibbs go into the bigger details, but if you pull both of them out of the box and look at the internals (from what you can see) they seem to be the same. Like I said, I'll let others break this down more. I never (if possible) use a fram filter.
I put Mobil 1 syn 5w-30 in my WRX when I bought it with 80k on it because the other car in the garage has big stickers from the manufacturer saying use that. Why keep two oils? At 100k I sent in one of those Blackstone oil analysis. He noted a little excessive wear from one of the metals and suggested based on hearsay and innuendo that I switch to something else. I don't recall the specific wording he used and the metal indicated. Brass? I'll have to dig it up if anyone cares. I switched to Rotella T 5w-40 from what I read here last change. I didn't really notice performance problems going to 4000 miles between oil changes before but did put about a half quart in between changes. The car has been mildly modded here and there from stock to stage 2 +, daily driver and an occasional autox in those 20k miles. Might even hit the rev limiter but very rarely. I plan on going a couple changes with Rotella and sending another sample in. Since I have no fancy charts, mathterbation and a before sample to compare to so this maybe moot to most.
Purolator filters (specifically the Pure 1) filter down to some of the smallest particles, yet still allow the highest flow (for filtering that fine) of any off-the-shelf filter for the best price. Yes, some filter smaller, but at the cost of flow. And yes, some hold more junk, but if your engine is falling apart fast enough to fill an oil filter over a few thousand miles, you're kinda screwed anyway. Plus, as Ryan mentioned, they are actually built quite well. Fram filters' pleats are glued together internally. Most Purolator Pure 1 filters are actually stitched and then clamped with steel. A few (filters that are mandated by the manufacturer) are held together with other methods. (apparently some manufacturers don't like steel IN the filter housing for whatever reason?? lol) Fram's wonderful glue process can actually fall apart, too. Yes, I have personally seen it. My Eclipse got a little warm one day when the thermostat stuck closed. Changed oil that day after fixing the stat, and for the heck of it cracked open the filter. It was separated and the glue inside was still sticky and gooey. I've never used a Fram filter after that.
Ok so since we are talking about oil filters, let me thread jack. oil filters.... I currently have an AMSoil filter on my car thanks to the wonderful hook up through this forum on AMSoil! I later found out that I can't do my own oil changes and keep my warranty (there is a bit more too it but that is what I will leave it at). So I am going to use my 12 free oil changes @ Morries and bring in my own oil. Are the Subaru filters worth using or should I be picking up a good filter too? I plan on changing around every 3,000 miles. My oil changes must be done every 3,750 to keep the warranty. 12 changes @ 3,000 miles = 36,000 miles and my main warranty is then void. So I can look into some mod options. After that I can do my own maintaince.
I've never heard of that with Subarus. I know Mitsubishi and BMW do exclusive maint on their cars, but they have to provide that as a free service---engine air filters and everything. I was told as long as you can document that your oil WAS in fact changed, then its all good in the hood. ---unless you've got some goofy extended warranty thing. Then I have no clue. :biggrin:
no i have to be able to provide receipts. i can't provide receipts with the discounted oil because it is a cash transaction. so i have to take it in to get changed.
I run Castrol GTX and Purelator filters on engines I don't care about and change it often (offroad vehicles for example). It's cheap and I don't care; the stuff is going to get water and dirt in it and probably be changed after 100 miles anyways. I run Mobile 1 and Purelator in vehicles I care about. Never noticed any performance difference or added oil consumption. In the past I've ran Valvoline full synthetic. That was in my Cadillac 472ci engine which ran HOT; hot as any turbo car (you couldn't drive the car with sandals or it would literally burn your feet because the block was so hot). I had to use a full synthetic that wouldn't break down under the stress of a HOT engine. Worked great and I was very happy with it. The engine did not leak oil; it burnt it off. With Castrol GTX I would burn off a quart in about 300 miles of hard driving. After switching to Valvoline I would burn off a quart after over 1000 miles (mix of hard and easy driving). Those concerned; yes all seals and gaskets had been changed to newer ones when the engine was rebuilt. If it had original 1972 seals and gaskets it would have leaked with a full Synthetic oil. That engine was the only thing I've ran Valvoline in. Products I refuse to use: Quaker State Penzoil Fram Any no-name shwag oil on the shelf of most gas stations and Wal-Mart (hmm... which is usually where you find Quaker State, Penzoil, and Fram... =)
I used to have an '81 Buick Regal with a Cadillac 472 in it (for those who know litres vs cubic inches that's about 7.7 litres =). I think the stock specs for that motor were 350 HP & 500 ft.lbs. torque. Guy out of Cannon Falls built it as a show car and it was a blast to drive. Couldn't have asked for a more fun first car =)
Ive toyed around with the idea of a 500 (early style) caddy in my 81 cutlass. If one comes around for a good price, i'm scooping it up. Right now I have a 455 in the garage, two 403s, a 350 and a 260. A caddy motor would be just about the only thing non olds i would swap into it.
awe comon you wouldn't swap a golf turbo motor into it? or an H22? :laugh: i just use basic oil from car quest for now...then im switching up to rotella T when i get my turbo swap
As some of you know, I just bught a '04 XT. I want to change the oil tomorrow, cause i dont know what the dealer put in it. After reading the tread a couple of times, sounds like i wanna use rotella t. now the q's. The rotella T that is being talked about, is that synthetic? Also, does it only come 5w-40? Cause we sell a Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 at Menards that comes in a Blue jug. Is that the one I want to use? I would like to use a synthetic. Never used one before. Just wanted to ask before i went out and changed it!
