Ujoints/driveshaft

Discussion in 'Modifications And Maintenance' started by silver03, Dec 21, 2020.

  1. silver03
    Offline

    silver03 Well-Known Member

    Likes Received:
    1,304
    Trophy Points:
    348
    2011 Outback CVT with ~140k. Father in law showed me a quote from the dealer for $600. My questions are regarding the degree of difficulty with access to a hoist and OEM or aftermarket (if there is an alternative). Thanks -Rick
     
  2. euro
    Offline

    euro Well-Known Member

    Likes Received:
    1,046
    Trophy Points:
    348
    If it's like most subarus i've worked on not too bad. Drop the trans support and unbolt the carrier bearing (if it's like my 05 obs) and possibly loosening the rear if it doesn't have enough give.
     
    silver03 likes this.
  3. Chux
    Offline

    Chux Well-Known Member

    Likes Received:
    1,453
    Trophy Points:
    398
    Removing the shaft isn't too bad, the only wild card is exhaust heat shields, but usually can be done without removing that.

    12mm box wrench to take the nuts off the differential flange. Pry bar or >7/8" wrench to hold the yoke from spinning while you loosen said nuts. 14mm socket for the carrier flange bolts. Thread the shaft out towards the back around the exhaust.

    I buy 2-0430DL joints from Autozone, $24 ea, lifetime warranty. Longer needle bearings than stock (more surface area) and greaseable. Kind of a project to put them in, my 12 ton press creaks and groans trying to break free those staked in OEM joints.
    Here's my write-up on replacing https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/driveshaft-u-joint-replacement.465866/post-5685977

    Otherwise, there are 2 shops here in Duluth that can replace those, I assume there are many in the cities. Give a call around, having the original shaft rebuilt is usually the best bet unless it's really chewed up, and you can have the car out of commission for a couple days.
     
    silver03 likes this.