So i did a search and find these two ways to do an UpPipe. Which is more easier or are they the same? I think scoobymods.com does a better job explaining and e-z to follow instructions? and scoobymods.com doesn't say anything about oil lines and draining coolents. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=194 http://www.fastwrx.com/howtoinuppip.html also, another question. Besides a tune is there anything else I need to know after installation? Do's and Dont's?
simplest and quickest way drop passenger side exhaust manifold collector drop downpipe drop the up pipe down out the bottom of the car done.
if you've never taken it off of your car before the biggest pain is going to be getting all the PITA stock heatshields off.
oofta......I've helped on 2. both took waaay more than that. Evan and I probably spent the better part of 6 or 7 on his WRX (the last 2 or 3 wouldn't have happened if it weren't for the crappy craftsmanship on the pipe he bought). and at least 4 on Saabaru's Saab.... worst part is definitely getting the old stuff apart. you'll probably want an offset 02 sensor wrench, as you need to pull the sensor in the collector to get the heat shields off. and you need to get the heat shields off to get the bolts off to get the collector off. We also found it a bit easier to get things apart if the crossover pipe is removed as well. Also had to lift the motor up off the crossmember in order to get enough clearance to get the old up-pipe out and new one in. remove the nut from each motor mount, and the bolt from the pitch stopper, then put a piece of wood on a jack, and jack carefully on the oil pan. only need a few extra inches. downpipe has to come off to seperate the up-pipe from the turbo. This is a really good time to replace/upgrade the rest of the exhaust system, as almost all of it has to be removed anyway. might as well put better stuff in there while you're at it. ps. I didn't read either link. I'm assuming they have pictures. and pics > my 56k
You'll definitely need an O2 sensor socket. You can probably borrow one. Also a Dremel or something to notch the collector heat shield so you don't have to pull the O2 sensor every time you want to take it on or off. You'll probably want to replace all the gaskets in there if they're more than a couple years old. I find it easier to remove the whole exhaust manifold assembly in one piece rather than trying to get just the collector (right side) out. Getting the collector out requires taking the top heat shield off of it, which is held on by bolts on the top of it which are a huge PITA to get at.
Oh, yeah. Get a can of PB Blaster or liquid wrench and spray the crap out of all the bolts at least 30 minutes prior to trying to remove any of them. That can save you from breaking off bolts or getting a hernia.
Took me 5 hours solo. That included going to Sears and McDonalds. I only took off the downpipe collector and uppipe. Also if you have a jack that only goes up 15 inches and the pad doesnt swivel its a little scary jacking up the motor.
i'm assuming you mean up pipe here...either way its false. you can absolutely get the stock up pipe out..it just takes patience. i personally do jack up the engine to make it go quicker but when i'm not in the mood to do that i can still get it out. the only piece that is tricky is the 2bolt bracket that is on the back of the up pipe...its a puzzle getting it out but it will come. which would make sense. an exhaust pipe w/o a flex is a major FTL.
if you remove that little sensor you can wiggle the up-pipe out without lifting the engine, but with the amount of time involved with friggin around like that I always unbolt the engone mount, lift an inch or 2 then out she comes...
I found it made it easier to remove the passenger side motor mount nut and lift the motor up slightly.
^^^ out of the 6-7 I have done... ALL of them got the engine tilt.. never removed the mount but I also always did it on a hoist.. I am sure not having a hoist would make your idea very good..
yup. one 14mm nut on the pass side engine mount, jack up engine two inches...the up-pipe practically drops right out.
All this is assumes you have hands like a slender 15 year old and 23 millions times of experiences. Ham fisted mechanical noobs like me spend hours. And stripping the engine bolts doesn't help. I'm still trying to figure out how to fix what I got going on.
I'll type you out some steps: 1. Remove intercooler. 2. Remove DP heatshield bolts and shield. 3. Disconnect front A/F sensor and EGT connector. 4. Go under car and remove motor mount nut/washer (14mm) 5. Remove front A/F sensor. 6. Remove shield front RH collector. 7. Remove bolts/nuts from Downpipe, and disconnect rear 02 sensor. Then remove cat-back/DP bolts and remove DP. 8. Unbolt all nuts holding UP/Turbo. 9. Tilt RH side of engine up using a small jack and soft block of wood on the oil pan. It won't dent as long as you use something SOFT! 10. Remove bolts from RH collector/UP, and nuts from the collector to head, and also the 2 bolts from the cross pipe to collector. 11. Up-pipe should now be loose, and you just need a little finess to remove it with the EGT sensor still in it. Reverse order to re-install, and you should be fine.
McLovin'! Lol. When we did my up-pipe install we jacked the motor up. It wasn't that big of a deal. I don't remember how long it took b/c we were working on the car ALL day! Hahaha. Also, my ERZ TBE and up-pipe w/no flex that I picked up from you Kong fit perfect. Up w/no flex, no problem. Mmmm, Stage2.:yumyum:
It makes it easier to get at the heat shield bolts on the downpipe. You don't have to, but it's just my preference. BTW, I have it down to about 1hr, depending upon how hot the turbo and exhaust is.
