Long story short... I bought a Ninja 500R off of a buddy of mine after he got it back from insurance after an accident. It checked out clean by a motorcycle mechanic friend of his dad's and I've driven it for 500 miles no problems. I did have to replace some of the fairings which I bought used off of ebay. they are a faded shade of red. The bike was originally purple and gray. So I feel like I'm riding Spiderman's bike. Now I have all the fairings off and am in the process of removing decals. I'm thinking of a rattle can job, though I will be prepping as best I can - sanding, primer. And I'll buy decals that will match the paint. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON COLORS!?!?!?! right now I'm thinking of flat black and gloss black decals. Sorry no "before" pictures. But here's a picture of what it would have looked like before the accident
They have that in rattlecan? No, but thanks for playing! Interesting - would you be able to photochop your idea? I'm not painting the wheels, but otherwise I like your idea.
Not only can I photoshop it for you, I can make the stickers, and I can tell you exactly what rattle cans you need to get to make the color. It'll cost you though. I want that water gun you had at the LAX Cruise a couple years ago. The one that literally drenched people with one pull of the trigger. I have a pic of me pretending to fellate it, and I will always cherish that.
How about Flat Black with Orange decals? readymix, I'm waiting for your chop to convince me to give you my water cannon/ hand-held-trigger-activated shower.
My Hard Drive is crapping out, so I may have to take this project to a different box, I keep getting I/O errors and I think it is because the HDD in there is old. I'll see what I can do later.
ypu can get anything mixed into a rattle can at a paint shop. a little more expensive than a can of duplicolor but the options are worth it. i have two cans of agean blue in my garage for my impreza.
Just so everyone is aware, I am NOT taking off the wheels to paint them. They will be staying gray. The frame and the seat will be staying black.
If you go to an automotive paint store, one that sells auto paint and one that supplies body shops they can make you almost anything and put it in a rattle can. They also have tons of paint chips to look at and help decide.
This is what I was thinking! I'm not a flashy "look at me" type of guy - in fact quite the opposite. So bright blue/white/orange don't really appeal to me. If someone can convince me otherwise maybe I'll go for it. I had to order a few parts and some hardware for the bike, so it's not going back together for a while. I still have to take off the majority of the decals and prep the areas that are being painted. Also have to move the gas cap from the dented purple tank to the less dented red tank - after it's been painted. I need to JB weld part of the rear handle together (small corner piece by the bolt hole - damn aluminum) and I have to fix one of the rear side faring by gluing in a small washer or piece of plastic. Hopefully once all the parts are together it will fit better and not risk cracking the new paint job.
my comment was in jest... aka you now.. NINJA... the assassin type ha ha ha... I do like that tan and green color though
Here's where I'm starting from. I'll try to update on my progress. For now I've got the spare tank partially sanded, one side faring sanded and the rest is just cleaned waiting for sanding. I ordered some spray paints online since I couldn't find what I was looking for online. You'll just have to wait and see what color, If indeed I decided to go with a "color"...
Sorry I never got around to the PShop for colors. I take it you have your colors picked out and what not? What did you go with? And do you want new graphics to adorn your freshly painted parts?
you'll see what color after I get 'er done. That is assuming I ordered enough paint... Stickers may have to wait. I want to see what it will look like first before I decide on what kind or color stickers to go with.
Let us know, and post a pic of the paint. I'm sure we can strike some sort of deal. I promise, the price will be very decent.
Still need to clear coat. Had some paint spattering issues with the cans last night. so there's that effect going on, but from a distance I think it looks fine. Hey, it's not 2 toned in Spiderman colors anymore!
So that's 2 coats primer, 2 coats undercoat, 3 coats metal flake and 4 coats of clear. Okay, I sprayed on about 4 coats or 2 1/2 cans of clearcoat. Now I have a question... Should I wet sand? It feels rough on most of the surfaces, but I don't want to sand down to the paint. Any suggestions? I suppose I could always get another can of clearcoat just to be safe.
You most likely have dust/dirt in the paint and that's why it feels rough. I'd buzz it with 1500 and then some 3000 trizact, followed by buffing. It should look sharp when its done.
NO. You need to determine the grit to use based on the amount of grit in the paint. If it feels "rough" to the touch, 1500 isn't going to cut that down well, especially if you are doing this wet. Since this is a rattle can job, you will likely want to use 800grit and keep it nice and wet as you go. If you have a sanding block, i would recommend that, but don't block sand the sharp edges, as you will likely go too deep. You only want to wet sand the surface till it is slightly hazy. I generally will wipe the water off the surface as I go, and then feel the surface with my hand to see if the surface is smooth. Even at 800 grit, the surface should feel baby smooth when you touch it. Once you have a nice 800grit haze, get some 1500grit paper and 2000 grit paper. Do the same thing, sand the surfaces while wet. 1500 and 2000 aren't going to cut all that deep, so you shouldn't have to worry too much about breaking through the clearcoat. All you are really doing here is using these higher grits to smooth over the sanding swirls that the 800 will leave behind. Once you have finished with the 2000 wet sanding, get a bottle of 3M fine cut polish. You can use your hand, and it will take a little bit of effort, but it should finish up looking glazed. Shiny and glassy. If you need any help, let me know.
Not sure if I'm done with it yet. If you look close enough you can see a lot of mistakes. That's what I get for using a rattlecan. I'll need to touch up a few spots and/or cover some up with decals. The tank needs another layer or 2 or fuel resistant clearcoat. I found out the hard way the stuff I used isn't very resistant to gasoline.
