And fleet farm is a more locally owned business. Not some giant corporation where the rich get richer and the employees are on welfare because there employer (wal-mart) suggests they do so. K I'm done now
Hey now, he doesn't swear by it , but it does break down faster to me, but i still believe him.... better be safe then sorry
Problem is everyone is talking about m1 synth but just mentions "mobile 1." m1 dino is fine. Almost identical to all the other oils I've used save for the change intervals.
Nope, pretty simple. I never buy it so I didn't know that they had multiple versions of their synthetic. Most stores stock one version of the synthetic oil (not blends)... but it makes sense that they would have different versions. Just never occurred to me.
Good timing with this thread. My WRX is due for an oil change, and I definitely will not be putting Mobile 1 in again. Seemed like I was constantly topping it off over the 3,000 miles I drove after the last change done at the shop. I'll be doing it myself this time. So the Rotella T6 (5w-40) is the way to go huh? Purolator One ($5) or Gold ($10) filter matter at all?
I only run the OEM Subaru filters that you can pick up at the dealer or Minnetonka Subaru for the discount.
I usually run Valvoline 5w-30 Fully Synthetic and haven't had any issues. I try to use OEM Subaru filters whenever possible, but picking one up at Autozone hasn't really led me wrong yet.
I do too...my car just wants to be the bullet when it grows up I used to use T6 with no issues in the STI and still do in the XT.
I believe ALL "Mobil 1" is synthetic. Mobil does make dino/blended oils, but they are not labeled "1". That said, T6 FTW.
Just pick up a six pack of OEM blues off of Amazon or Google for the two oil filters that have the correct bypass of 23 PSI and see if anyone local to you carries either. I believe one of them is a Purolator Pure One PL 14460. As for oil, I guess I will be the loner here and say M1 0W-40 and M1 0W-30R 4/1. M1 does not suck, there is an application for everything. If you use the wrong oil in the wrong type of engine or under the wrong conditions then you can't blame the oil.
Please clarify. Are you speaking in regards to weights? Several people have used Mobil 1 in the correct weights and have had issues. Just ask the guys who work at the dealerships.
Yes, in regards to weights. M1 0W-40 is an outstanding oil and is every bit as good as the famed German Castrol. It holds up well in turbo'd applications, has a very good HTHS number, add pack, and is slightly thinner than T6. I tried to convince myself to try and run an API SN RC oil but I just can't make myself do it, this includes M1 5W-30 as well as Eneos Sustina and Pennzoil Ultra. Either of those three oils would be a great choice in a different application, just not in a turbo'd subaru. I just don't understand the M1 bashing, just because it doesn't work in these cars doesn't mean its a bad oil.
I have been using the Purolator Pure One filter on my car since my 2nd oil change. I personally like it much better than the OEM filter. It is nice to have the extra grip on the outside for taking the filter on and off. As well... I have no SCIENCE on this... but I assume it is a better filter than the OEM setup. Then again, I could just be a victim of marketing.
I've seen it wipe lobes of camshafts in pushrod v8s, (two different brands of v8, one I owned myself) I've seen it turn into volcanic glass in Saab turbo 2.3s (after 5K oil change intervals), and I've seen literally a hundred or so of mobil1 2.0L wrx rod bearing failures, 5w30 mobil1 is garbage. Mobil might make good oil, but the 5w30SYN sold here in the states is rubbish.
We bash M1 here because the suggested weight for the Subaru, 5w30, turns piss thin by or before the 2000 mile mark. By the 3000 mile mark, it is dangerously thin and engines have been ruined because of it. I suppose if it wasn't destroying motors, nobody would care. But you should not have to check your oil at every gas fill up to make certain you haven't burned off and lost a quart or more, nor is it good to have to add a quart before 3000 miles to maintain oil levels. When dealership techs notice a trend of Subaru motors taking a crap between regular oil changes, and those motors typically are running Mobil 1 5w30, then yeah, they are going to say something. The whole point of it is to keep members from using it. Because about 5 years ago, every new person that came along would proudly say "I ONLY run Mobil1 5w30 in my car." Usually followed by some sort of Stockholm Syndrome statement like "It costs the most, and I have to add a quart between changes, but I love it and my car runs great." Completely contradicting themselves. We bash it to keep people from just brainlessly buying it and putting it in their Subarus. Seriously, it still persists, look at some of the cars for sale. Alot of them will say something like "Changed oil with mobil 1 every 3000 miles." That would, to me, be a warning, not a selling point.
I think what it comes down to is that Amsoil and T6 both can be used in any other application (with the correct weight of course.), while M1 doesn't work well with the Subaru motors. That alone already drops it on the list.
It's more then just Subaru's, even the educated Mitsu and Nissan guys won't touch it. When you have an oil that starts to deplead your car's performance significantly without you making any material changing after an oil change should be a sign of concerns and especially when your performance drop even more after two weeks if not less. The average driver/owner won't notice this difference because they don't drive their cars to a level where they could experience the difference or have had expereince with another quality product to compare it to.
On the subject of oil filters, there have been some good comparisons on bobistheoilguy.com about different ones. FRAM is to be avoided at all costs, most other filters will do OK for the average consumer, but K&N, Mobil 1, and Puralator Pure One filters are at the top of the spectrum. The only difference is that Puralator's perform at the upper level at half the costs of a K&N. I've been using Puralator Pure One filters and Rotella T6 almost exclusively for the last 5 years and my car has seen plenty of abuse and track use. The engine should be closing in on 200K miles here soon.
An interesting read on NASIOC about oil filter internals: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1662838 There's some dialog defending the cardboard construction of FRAM filters as well. While I understand the science of it, I personally have worked in shops where a FRAM filter let go and launched material into the oil galleys of the engine and caused an oil starvation issue. The engines were past the 3000 mile interval, but modern cars only require changes every 6000-9000 miles, which caused the owners to run the filter for an extended period of time. To that effect, there's someone in the same thread that opened up a blue Subaru OEM filter to find that it's just a FRAM with a new paint job.
I have always used the WIX premium, or what ever there better one is. Carquest brand filters are WIX as well. (At least they were last I checked).
Yep. I look at the bottom of the box every time I but the premium filter at Napa to make sure it's still a WIX. Never know when a retailer/OEM might switch brands to a Fram like Subaru did. I recall reading a while ago when Subaru switched from the black filters to the blue. Someone cut one open and found it was basically a Fram. *edit* here we go: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/new-subaru-blue-oil-filters-made-honeywell-162006.html http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1269571
I think you're right about the nomenclature. This is what I used fwiw: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_Clean_5000.aspx
Who makes oil recommendations the manufacturers or the oil suppliers? This has cafe standards written all over it. The majority if oils with HTHS numbers @ or below 3.0 will sheer down to a degree. This helps to aid in better fuel economy. If you want to be mad at someone be mad at subaru for selling their customers out to the cafe gods.
I've used M1 5W-30 off and on with Redline 0W-30 in my Ion Redline SC since 2004 and never had an oil related problem with that engine. The vast majority of the Redline & Cobalt SS/SC community swear by it. These guys race in auto cross, drag their cars, build 300+ HP cars, and run them just as hard as most of us do. Again this is an application issue, not a poor oil issue. Send your hate mail to Subaru, not M1.
For recommending a resource conserving oil in an engine that was not designed to run such oil, yes. M1 0W-40 is not resource conserving and there is no issue running it in a subie engine. These RC oils are designed to sheer down to offer that 1-2% improvement in mpg. Do not run a RC 5W-30 and you will be fine. I am sure there are other factors that contribute to failures to subie engines other than oil choices. Just look around at the other forums and you can see a plethora of people making bad decisions that will in the end find something else to blame other than themselves.
OK. You've convinced me, I'll give the T6 a try if they have it at the CarQuest across the street from me.
Or as already stated in this thread, trust the Subaru Techs and engine builders that clean up the mess.
Run whatever you like, I (we) get our information FIRST HAND when dealing with these cars 5 days a week, and have been since 2001. Nobody is forcing you to use anything. Again, I'm talking directly about 5w30 mobil1 SYN sold in the states, I would say 60% of the failures I see the cars are run religiously on this oil, the other 40% are from no oil changes period. People who check their oil when filling up literally do not exist anymore.
I 100% agree with you. M1 5W-30 meeting API SN RC ILSAC GF-5 is a bad choice for this motor. Subaru is rolling the dice requiring its customers of 2011+ WRX/STI's to run any API SN RC or ILSAC GF-5 oil, regardless of the manufacturer of said oil. If the car is driven normally with little time spent under boost, shifting under 4K, and no motor or ECU modifications then maybe RC type oils would be sufficient but who here honestly does this? I just think for the time being, that is until Subaru releases a new engine designed to handle RC oils, all of them should be avoided as they will all sheer down to a 20wt eventually. There are a ton of options out there that are just as good as T6. There's Motul 8100 x-clean 5W-30 oil, Amsoil, Redline 0W-30 and 5W-30, M1 0W-40, GC 0W-30, Eneos Sustina 0W-50 which over at BITOG has so far shown to be a heavy 0W-40, and so on and so forth. Oh, by the way, I do to still exist or at least I think I do lol.
