I picked up a -12 AN line and fitting for the oil return. It makes -8 AN look tiny. Haha. Installed with just a bench vice and adjustable wrench so they're not perfect. Good enough for me though. Last night I finished hooking up everything to the sump and the boost controller/EWG. I also cut a hole in the bumper for the exhaust dump.
More updates: Unicorn fitting arrived. 3/8" NPT to -12 AN. Here's another shot that's even more from the side to show how I tried to keep the hoses away from the heat as much as I could. You can also see the blanket installed on the turbo and that I cut down the downpipe/exhaust dump. I hacked it off with my angle grinder and then Fobia cleaned it up and made it pretty with his belt sander. Here's a shot with the chopped off exhaust dump. Trying on various intake options.
Looks good Ben! I have some STi mesh grille foglight covers. They've seen better days, but if it would be something that you'd be interested in, let me know. Just thought about how they could work in this turbo app. They'd probably work with the filter, but probably not with the velocity stack.
$30? They have been painted WRB and the grills need to be resprayed pretty much annually. A fresh coat of PSM and they'd probably be good to go! You could always check them out and if you want them or don't want them, its all good. I've always mounted them with zipties fwiw. Lol
No pics at the moment...but i can grab some as they are on the car out back. Maybe i can get them tomorrow. Dunno about the ebay mesh ones...as far as i know they are the ebay mesh ones? Lol They are fiberglass with black mesh grill that said STi on it. Fitment is really good. But i can't recall how they mount. I know that i slipped them in with the tabs on top and then ziptied them from the fender side.
I might be interested. Depends how easily they can be made to look decent. I do have a can of silver paint sitting around somewhere. My car got shared on 1320's Facebook page yesterday. It was interesting seeing some of the comments. Lots of haters. Haha.
That's why you never attempt to read FB comments on that page...so many knuckle dragging mouth breathers.
Well, it IS the internet, so everything is srs bsns. People still think my car isn't worth their breath because it still has a 7M in it, so yeah. Looking very nice, Ben. That hose management is sexy like mad.
The other day I swapped the cap on my TurboSmart FPR from blue to black. Started with this (cap screws already loosened): Going to be swapping on this black cap: Everything all taken apart: Here it is with the black cap and dual inputs (for parallel fuel rails): And here is with a single input (for series fuel rails): Blue cap for sale if anyone is interested!
Over the weekend I worked on getting the fuel rails and lines setup. The IAG lines do not have the SS braided layer under the nylon braid so it was very easy to cut and get setup with the fittings. I set the rails up for series fueling. They are arranged 4-2-3-1. This is the opposite of the firing order. There is a LOT of debate on fuel line routing but Dom at Maxwell Power has some good points for going with the opposite of the firing order. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1934936 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2162858 I also pulled off the TGV housings (I have the plastic ones) and cleaned them up, as well as cleaning the injectors and replaced the top o-rings. I assembled the TGV's, rails, and injectors. It is a great benefit of aftermarket lines/rails that they're not tied to the intake manifold at all so they can be assembled off the car and then installed. I picked up this adjustable wrench from Harbor Freight. It is cheap, but much better quality than the other cheap adjustable wrenches I have been using. Adjustment is very smooth and the jaws are very thin (even compared to the AN fitting specific wrenches). The best thing is that it comes with plastic covers for the jaws so it won't mar the fittings. The covers aren't a perfect fit, so you can't put a ton of torque on with them, but so far so good. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-wide-mouth-adjustable-wrench-67128.html
I never really quite put together what you were saying on my pump being a diaphragm style. I was doing more research and I have found that this is probably not the pump I want. It was not the pump I originally ordered so I am trying to return it, but I'm getting some push back since it's been so long (a few months). I originally ordered this pump: http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Base-Model_Pump/Base-Model_Pump.html But it was out of stock so I was asked if I would take this one instead (they sent me this link): http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/5922/Mocal_Differential_Cooler_Pump Pump specs looked good (and normal price is higher than the pump I ordered) so I accepted and the order was processed. The pump I got was actually a different one. Much lower specs and lower price. For some reason I didn't notice until recently. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1546/Mocal_Differential_Cooler_Pump I paid the $249 price of the original pump I ordered, I have been offered the $70 difference in price, but I really don't want to run this pump at all so I am trying to get a refund. I hope that happens and then I will order one of these pumps. I haven't decided which one yet. Fobia likes the TurboWerx ones, but the size/price of the RBR ones it appealing. http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Scavenge_Pumps.html http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm
Oh man that 17530 would have been a boss pump, but it is strange that they would have sent such a spendy pump for no additional charge. If you can afford a gear style pump, they are by far a better investment, made specifically for low-lube, high-rpm operation (think dry sump system pumps, they're the same style) The Exa-pumps look to be gear-style as well and should be a decent option if they would do an exchange. If they don't take back the pump you have, it'll still work, just not quite as well as would be preferred.
Yeah, I was pretty pumped that I was getting such a good deal. Turns out it was just that he accidentally sent me the wrong link. The TurboWerx and RB Racing pumps are all gear style. That's what I plan on going with (gear style), just not sure what brand/model yet. I really hope I can return the one I have or else I'll have a very expensive paperweight. Know of anyone who would want to buy the one I have? Brand new!
The only one I am skeptical about was the 'Spartan' pump. Its pump head has the stereotypical domed diaphragm look to it, being all plastic without a access panel also is suspicious.
I did some work last night. I re-did the crankcase vent lines and then finished installed the TGV's, fuel rails, fuel lines, and intake manifold. I also hooked up the turbo oil feed to the AVCS banjo. The little Mr. Heater was able to get it (barely) above freezing in my garage.
Which Mr heater? I got a 35k btu one on black Friday for $60...when it's mid 20's, I can get my small 2 car garage (poorly insulated) almost to 70 F and when it's around 0 F, I can still get it to about 50. I think you have a much bigger garage tho lol. And I'm might consider doing fuel rails when I do my turbo and TGV deletes. Thanks for posting up your research. Any reason why you picked series?
Mine is a little bigger than that. I think it's 55k or 75k or something. Back in my old house I had an insulated, tuck-under, 2 car garage and it could get it nice and hot like yours. I would usually run it for a while and then turn it off because it was too hot. This garage has no insulation and soffits that let air right in. My temp sensor is over by the door into the house, and I had the heater pointed the opposite way, so it was probably a bit warmer than the readout says over by my car. It really wasn't too bad. Here are some links I had posted regarding the fuel setup. I think most NF guys are running 4-2-1-3. It looks a bit cleaner like that, but the threads below indicate that reverse of the firing order would be best. From what I can tell it probably doesn't really matter that much. People have had luck with all sorts of different configurations. It's pretty easy to change later on if it doesn't work out too. Now that I have the rails and lines in I regret not doing them sooner. They make it so much easier to work on the car. I can pull my intake manifold off in 5 minutes now.
Is that the double or triple core? I used my oem cap when I got mine too. Can I ask what happened to that single tip catback?
Mine is the aluminum performance version but not the X-Line one. I figured I didn't really need that for a drag focused car. I still have the COBB exhaust in my garage. I may end up deciding I need a full exhaust to street drive the car. Not sure yet.
Pretty sure that is the one I've got as well. I've been looking around for a quieter exhaust, let me know if you decide to get rid of the Cobb. I've got my invidia N1 for a possible trade if you're interested.
I sent back the Mocal diaphragm pump. Still waiting on the refund. I ended up ordering the Turbo Werx mini pump found here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TurboWerx-E...e-Pump-THE-BEST-JUST-GOT-SMALLER/151483438474 I figured the small size would be nice. Their product listing has a lot of warnings about water pumps being sold as oil pumps. This includes the RB Racing ones. I had noticed that the RB ones look just like the eBay cheapo ones but they claim they are better.
Is it a real N1 and not an eBay one? What color tip? If you want to add cash I might consider it. Not sure yet. I did like the COBB a lot.
Thanks again for the info on the fueling setup, I had seen those threads before and I read through them again the other day...my head starts to spin after so many pages lol. There are a lot of differing opinions, and it's hard to know who to trust on nastysocks. Good to hear how most NF guys are running their setups though.
It's rather dirty there, but it can be cleaned up easily. Edited to minimize clutter: im pretty sure Trent was able to remove the burnt tip from his blast pipe
Last night I did some wiring for the fuel pump and oil scavenge pump. Both are going to be hardwired with relays. I did as much of the soldering as I could do outside the car. The rest will have to be done in the car. Any suggestions on a fuse I can tap into to get a 12V signal on the ACC key position from inside the engine bay? I was thinking the rear defrost fuse would work, but my battery is dead so I couldn't check it.
I'd recommend an ignition (instead of accessory) trigger wire, that way you can listen to the radio without the pumps running the battery down. Waiting in staging, listening for the announcements and such, perhaps a drive-in? I'll check my car when i's re-powered unless you beat me to it.
That's the same thing KillerB said, but I cannot honestly remember any time I have ever used ACC on my car. It's either on or it's off. I like the idea of the pump coming on before the car. It seems like it gives it more of a "buffer". Maybe that's just in my head. It would be nice to be able to flip it to ACC and then listen for the pump to make sure it's actually working. Also, I don't even have a radio or speakers in this car. Haha.
