The accessory circuit shuts down during cranking to ensure maximum cranking power, but the ig/ON circuit stays live (need the ECU to start the car, but not the radio or blower motor). If you trigger both fuel and scavenge pumps from acc, you would have a loss of fuel pressure during cranking, as well as no scavenging action. It might start, but idk if it would.
We used an add-a-fuse on an acc fuse through a relay controlled by the fuel pump control on the hydra for the scavenge pump. Did the same thing with the fuel pump, except ran that straight to the battery for power.
No plans for that. My wife has mentioned it, so maybe it will happen someday. I'd rather keep it a street car though. The fuel pump will be signaled from the positive line coming off the fuel pump controller. Basically just cut the wire going to the pump and put the relay in the middle. The oil scavenge pump is the one that I want to run on on an accessory fuse. I may try to check it out tonight, but I think I fried my battery on the charger. It is hot and bulgy... Both my fuel pump and oil scavenge pump are hardwired to the battery for power. The relay signal is all I'm looking to get from the accessory fuse.
Hmm sounds a little different than how we did it. We're using the fuel pump control output from the ecu for the relay signal though. We're just going to tap into the wiring harness by the ecu.
That's what I'm doing, but I am cutting into the wiring right next to the pump. This results in the large wire being used directly from the battery all the way back to the pump. The OEM wires are only 16 AWG but since it is only a few inches it can handle the current.
Hmm I'm not a wiring guru, I'd have to look at your setup to understand. We trimmed the ground wire off and grounded it right near the pump, and ran the hot wire all the way to a relay in the cab near the fuse box. the relay will be powered through the fuse box and controlled by the fuel pump control. Hope I'm explaining that right.
My fuel pump is the very basic hardwire setup that every DSM/EVO/Subaru does. I'm sure yours is fine too. Just seems to make the most sense to put the relay close to the pump although I'm sure it functions the same. I did poke around with my multimeter and found that the rear defrost fuse only showed 12V when the defrost button was actually pushed. I ended up using a fuse labeled "Turn Lamp". Turning the key to the ACC position also allowed me to spot a leak at one of my injectors so I will have to pull that back off and take a look. I just replaced orings so I'm not sure what's wrong. Then I spent about an hour installing wire loom on the new wires in the engine bay. PITA for sure. Still need to finish wiring the fuel pump and the oil pump but I might wait until it is a little warmer...
I thought you were talking about your scavenge pump... For my fuel pump, my relay is mounted in the trunk. I have it hard wired from the battery to the relay, and then to the pump. we tapped into the control wire for the oem fuel pump controller for the relay control. It was the green wire on mine, should be labeled though. Sounds like we're on the same page, I just don't understand what other control you would need. I'll be curious to see if I have any leaks at my injectors as well. It was a pretty tight fitment getting the Moran injectors to fit straight. Hopefully everything is sealed well, but we'll see....
The relay for the scavenge pump is what I need a 12V signal for. I posted my schematic on the previous page.
will it matter that the OEM fuel pump signal is not DC but has a duty cycle? wouldn't want the relay cycling at X Hz I suppose the ROM table could be changed to output 100% duty cycle always.
The pulse width modulation is on the negative lead. The relay is on the positive side which sees power any time the key is on. The relay shouldn't have to cycle (and it wouldn't like to I'm sure). The other option is to just ground the negative lead on the pump (and not connect the fuel pump controller negative at all). This runs the pump 100% of time that the car is on. No tuning changes needed.
I'd personally ground the fuel pump directly to ground. You have a good fuel pressure regulator that's capable of flowing the same amount as the pump can, which removed the need for the PWM control anyways. Only reason OEM's do it that way is because their tiny oem regulators can't keep up with the stock pumps. Once you're in the high-hp range that you're in, simplicity is the best method. Less things to fail and wreck your investment.
If you have a turbine-style pump (like an Aeromotive stealth 340, AEM 320 series, Denso 1020 series) you don't hear the pump run asiode from a very slight whirring noise. Generally it's the walbro 255 (gearotor), A1000 (roller-style), and Fuel lab (vane-style) pumps you hear more- coffee grinder style.
I have the Walbro 465. I remember it as being pretty loud? I guess it will probably be quite compared to my 6" long exhaust dump out the fender...
Ba ha ha, don't think I've ever heard one of those big Walbros run.When you've got it wired in I think I'd like to hear that in person, as well as the new scavenge pump. Should be a pretty legit symphony of fluid movement!
Earlier this week I attempted to charge my Odyssey slim battery with a new charger I got for Christmas. Something didn't go right and the battery was bulging and very hot when I got back. The charger was set to trickle mode, but it appears it didn't stop charging when it should have. I ended up returning the charger for a better (smarter) one, and bought a new battery. Bad vs. New New Charger Digital readout is much more useful than the analog gauge on the other charger. New battery and new charger together. Same model I had before.
Today I got the final piece of the puzzle that I need. TurboWerx Exa-Pump Mini. This is a gear driven pump and appears to be of much higher quality than the Mocal water pump that I had before. I am hoping to get it mounted and wired tonight or later this weekend.
My brother and I spent about 3-4 hours working on things last night. Got the oil pump mounted and soldered the wire leads onto the relay that I already had mostly set up. Then I soldered all the connections for the fuel pump relay. I put the battery in place and then put fuses into the power wires for the oil and fuel pump. The oil pump came on immediately. The fuse I had tapped into was providing signal even with the car off apparently. Poked around and tried every fuse in the engine bay and they are all "hot" with the car off. Most are just a small voltage but they're enough to start the pump. The only one that was truly off was the headlight fuse, but it doesn't show 12V until the car is on and the headlights are turned on. Not what I want. We are still seeing if there are any wires I could tap into in the engine bay, otherwise we will have to pull it into the cabin and tap into the wires that all the gauges are connected to. After that I tried priming it to check the fuel pump. The fuel pump primed just fine. Injectors were still leaking a little so I pulled them all out and added a bumper and put them all back in. They all seem to seal up fine now. Somewhere in this process I happened to try priming it with the fuel pump power wire fuse pulled out. It still primed. Something wasn't right. I unplugged the relay completely and it still primed! Doing some more research I found that on the 02 WRX the black/yellow wire is for the fuel sensor. The guide I was using was on an STI and black/yellow is pump power. I believe I have found the correct schematic for my car and the black/red is power. So tonight I hope to rewire the fuel pump and then run the oil pump wire into the cabin. I believe that is all that is left before starting it up and burping the coolant.
Definitely now that the weather appears to be turning. I didn't really want to drive it during the winter, so I plugging away fairly slowly.
It's alive! I fixed the fuel pump wiring this afternoon. That's working as expected now. Unfortunately I think I fried the fuel level sensor (or possibly fuel temp sensor) when I had the relay wired up incorrectly. The dash just shows no fuel all the time now. For the oil pump my brother realized that we have 12V ACC power running to the boost gauge sender in the engine bay already, so I just spliced into that wire for the oil pump relay signal. Once all that was done we primed the turbo with oil, fired it up, and then burped the coolant. Took it around the block and it seems to be running well. There was a little oil in the exhaust dump after the initial startup but I think it might have been from all the cranking to prime the turbo. I've done a few restarts since then and I don't see any clouds of smoke. I'll be monitoring it to see if any more oil shows up in the exhaust. The car still needs a tune but I did take it to the parking ramp a few blocks away for some rolling shots. Setup Shot: Setup Shot: Air Filter: Velocity Stack: Engine Bay:
Also, what's the deal with the smaller battery? I'm pretty sure my battery is shot and i need a new one and I've always wondered about those..
I wouldn't pick a small battery for a daily driver in MN unless you park in a heated garage at home and at work. They just don't have the same power as a full size battery. The only benefit of one is saving a few pounds.
Update from last night. Filled it up with E85. I think it was $1.79 or so. Turns out my fuel level sensor wasn't ruined, I just had really low fuel in the tank. Once I filled it up it's back to normal. Good to get a full tank of fresh fuel into the car. I'm right around 190k on the odometer. The car is surprisingly quiet for a <1ft long exhaust. Sounds similar to a GD with no axleback or even a big coffee can exhaust. We went and did some tuning and got going pretty well. It's siting a little over 30psi right now. Seems to be making similar power to what my 2011 WRX with 6266 made. I want to do a few more pulls before posting anything though. Powerband looks very similar to the 60-1 setup I just took off the car, but the power is great everywhere. After tuning there was coolant sprayed all over the engine bay. We found out that the alternator pulley had cut the upper radiator hose. I didn't cut it down when I installed the new radiator. NF had a set of Samco hoses in stock so we swapped the hoses and re-burped the system. Car is pulling strong and even got the speed checked with some government certified equipment on the way home. -_- This morning I took my daughter to daycare with it and then drove it into work
It is a full setup sold by Rig Pro. They sell via their Facebook page. It is a very nice setup, but fairly costly.
You can get most of the stuff they use for slightly cheaper if you go searching the internet. I am happy to support a small company that has put in the work/research to make a good kit. And the poles usually end up being the trickiest part. These are threaded with female threaded couplers and a textured finish on the entire length of the pole. The setup has been working great for me. Most of my exposures are around 5 seconds and I've never had any bounce/motion blur issues.
I'd hope they just did a verification of the accuracy of the vehicle speed monitoring system and indicator.
Thanks for the info on these kits, my recommended suction cups are already on their way back and returned!
Here is the exhaust video and some preliminary charts/comparisons: The first comparison I did was against my last setup. Kinugawa TD06H 60-1. KillerB header, EWG, etc. Very much the same except the turbo and the low mount header modification. I also added more fuel, but the 60-1 hadn't run into any issues running out of fuel. Wheels and tires are the same as well. The 6266 setup has a very similar powerband, but makes more power all over (boost is slightly higher up top). It's a solid 60WHP gain from 5,000 rpm's on up to redline. The 60-1 is a 59.5mm compressor vs. the 62mm of the new setup. The slightly larger turbo on this setup is coming on at the same time, but making more power. Next comparison I did was against one of the 3rd gear logs that I had from my 2011 WRX rotated 6266 setup. A lot of differences from the 2002 WRX. Heavier car, no cams, has AVCS, smaller intercooler, stock fuel rails, intake into the fender, more intercooler piping, plastic intake manifold, KillerB header vs Fobia 1.5 scroll, etc, etc. The powerband is very, very different. Surprisingly the S1 cams and no AVCS is making a lot more midrange and tons more torque. I assume all the other differences are combining to make a vastly different power curve. The 2011 has boost coming on sooner, but power is later, and peak toque is way lower. Virtual Dyno takes into account the car's weight and gives a power number. So even those these made the same peak power, I am sure the 2002 is actually quicker due to the weight being a few hundred pounds less. So I plotted out the 50-90mph range from the logs I used for the Virtual Dyno plots. The new setup beats out the 2011 pretty easily and the 2002 WRX with 60-1 actually passes up the 2011 before 85mph. The last plot I have right now is a 1-2-3-4 pull. My GoPro isn't working so this was my best option for getting a 50-100 mph time. Based on this log (using 2-3-4th) the time is right around 4 seconds flat. I think I can get this a little lower with better shifting or starting in 3rd. But even where it is now it is already quicker than either of the other two setups.
