I'm not recommending anyone at this point. Waiting to see how things pan out once it's all together before I make my final judgment.
Picked up a new Dremel and a mini hacksaw. My battery powered Dremel seemed like a good idea when I bought it years ago, but in the end the battery just doesn't have a lot of power and runs out fairly quickly. So this plug in Dremel should be a nice upgrade. My brother and I spent a couple hours cutting up the bumper a lot but couldn't get it to fit. The piping is hitting in the fog light area. We cut a LOT out of that area already. It is close but still won't quite fit. We cut all the way up to the painted area of the bumper around the fog light. It would be a big hole it I was going to run fog lights, but I'm just doing covers so right now it would still all be covered. If only it fit. Something is off because I've seen pics where people didn't cut any of that corner out and it still seems to fit. Example: http://www.benjohnsonphotography.com/photos/i-3r69MZb/0/L/i-3r69MZb-L.jpg Here are some photos of the FMIC/bumper fitment issues. I've basically cut as much as possible that will still be hidden by the fog light covers. From what I can tell the core probably needs to be lower. I'll try shimming the mounts with washers and see if that helps any. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. Driver Side: Passenger Side: Front (No Issues): It is somewhat close to fitting, but the piping makes the front of the bumper sit a little to high, and that pull the alignment of the sides of the bumper so it won't fit. Mock Up:
Here's the latest: 6/13/14 (Friday): Federal 595 RS-R Arrived Dropped Off Tires To Be Mounted Bought A Set of Stock Rear Axles (Just In Case) Adjusted FMIC Piping To get the bumper to fit on, all I had to do was loosen the clamps on the couplers going to the core. Then angle the couplers down and back as much as possible and then tighten the clamps back down. The pipes angle off the core at a little bit of a downward angle, and the bumper fits pretty well. The cuts turned out pretty good. Did the Dremel with high speed cutoff wheel for the cutting and then the Dremel with a sanding drum to clean things up. I didn't need to cut nearly that much off for the foglights, but it's all hidden behind the covers so it doesn't matter. 6/14/14 (Saturday): Installed Hood Installed Bumper/Grill/Lights Removed Fender Liners Installed Fog Light Covers Started Car - Oil Leak Saturday evening the wheels/tires got dropped off. Saturday night my brother and I installed the flat hood, finished installing the bumper/grill/headlights, and put on the fog light covers. I didn't have brackets for the fog light covers, but some 4" long 1/4" bolts worked fine. They aren't quite the right angle, but they'll hold things on. Realized I didn't have headlights bulbs. Still need to buy those. After he went home I got everything ready to start up the car for the first time. Dead battery. Jumped it (after priming the turbo). Started it up and heard a leak. Look under the car and oil is dripping out at an alarming rate. Turn off the car. Made a big mess in just a few seconds. After somewhat cleaning up the mess I checked around and figured out the leak was coming from the oil feed line (FP oil feed) on the back of the head. I tried tightening it down and got the banjo bolt to turn a bit more. I thought I had it solved so I redid the whole process and it still leaked. It was getting really late so I cleaned up a little more and then called it quits for the night. 6/15/14 (Sunday): Fixed Turbo Oil Feed Leak Started Car Put On Wheels Drove 20 ft In/Out of Garage Sunday night I pulled the oil feed line off the head and checked it out. Everything looked fine. I was a little suspect of the washers. The ones FP includes don't appear to be copper. They just look like a regular washer. I decided to try reusing the OEM washers and banjo bolt. I dug that out and started putting things back together. At some point I realized that when the oil line points straight up (like I had it before), the wrench flats on the FP line hit the head casting and prevent the banjo fitting from sitting flat against the head! Over-tightening it would have just bent/broken something. I found that if point the hose straight down there is plenty of clearance. The OEM line doesn't have this issue since it is a solid hardline with nut with wrench flats. Just a hardline soldered onto a banjo fitting. It can sit flush without any issue. Once I had the FP oil line oriented properly and tightened down I started up the car and no leak! I did use the OEM bolt and washers, but I don't think that was the issue. Just the alignment and interference. I threw the wheels on and took the car off the stands. Still no headlight bulbs and it was late so all I did was back it in and out of the garage. Hopefully will get it tuned soon, and then take it to BIR this weekend for Proving Grounds 2014.
Killer What event(s) are you doing at Proving Grounds? I've never run a FMIC, but is it worth adding some sort of screen to prevent FOD damage to your nice new IC? You could maybe throw on a cheap/homemade radiator shroud too.
Looks nice! This is a mean bugeye and super low key. Would be a sleeper except for the FMIC Are you still using the R160?
I'll just do drag. It's only FOD if it can actually cause damage right? If it's that big a small screen probably wouldn't fare too well either. I'm sure it will pick up lots of bugs but I'm not too worried about that. No plans to do a radiator shroud. The GS ones are cool but I don't really need it. Just squint and it looks like an RS. Still have an r160. Swapped the flange to run an STI driveshaft. I'll provablly run a welded rear diff if I can get that set up by NF.
Glad to see you're making progress... Getting it done just in time! Well I landed suppose there are some guys that will be up Thursday night before proving grounds, so u suppose you still have plenty of time. Looking forward to seeing numbers and a graph!
Since you have a couple days, why don't you see about dropping the R&P gears off at Frozen Rotors in Burnsville for cryo? Don't forum members get some sort of deal... May as well get the axles cryo'd at the same time, since they're likely the next things to let go, and/or see if NF can weld sleeves over the axles while they are welding the diff... Those couple things would reduce your chances of grenading a fair bit I think : )
Probably not worth it. He's already basically set up for for the R180. Might as well weld the R160 and see what happens.
I'll put in a welded r160 if I can get it done in time, but it may not happen. In which case I'll just run it as is. I have a set of spare axles just in case.
Is there some sort of stock location turbo class for PG? If so, I'm assuming that's what you're shooting for? PS - I forgot to mention my jealousy of your federals lol. The ones in my size have been back ordered for weeks.
If you chemically etch the body shell to drop weight, it'll still appear stock right? Should be no worries then
Here are some results from the tuning last night: It made just over 450WHP @ 26psi. Spools late, but top end feels strong and boost holds well. Comparison to the last time: Differences: Before -> After Turbo Compressor: 53mm Inducer -> 54mm Inducer Intercooler: GrimmSpeed TMIC -> TurboXS FMIC Blow Off Valve: Stock BPV Crushed -> TurboXS RFL BOV Uppipe: GrimmSpeed Uppipe -> GrimmSpeed EWG Uppipe Wastegate: Internal Wastegate -> TurboSmart 40mm Outside Temperature: 30-40F -> 70-80F The powerband does feel quite different. What is seen on the plot can be felt on the road. It really gets into power around 5k. This is really pretty late, but the power comes on strong and feels good out to redline. Once in the power it feels good, but it takes a bit to get there. Not an ideal powerband for daily/street or autocross, but for occasional driving and drag events it should work great. I am looking forward to seeing what it will do at at the track. I am hoping it will do 11's and trap in the 120's, but I'll be on street tires so we'll see how well it grips. Here is a quick speedo video:
We'll see. Sometimes the sticky road tires don't do that well on the strip. I think it is sidewalls that are too stiff and lack of heat in the tires.
What size diameter pipe are you running for your intake/maf? sorry if i missed it. also i assume you are running MAF based tuning?
My foz didn't qualify for stock appearing last year I got thrown into the big boys class. Although the class you are placed in ultimately depends on the tech. Yup! I drag raced falken azenis a couple times and they don't hook in the straight line. Its almost like they get "greasy" when they are warmed up. No, I didn't do burnouts in them and yes, I skipped the water box. I think you are right though, autox tires have stiffer sidewalls. They don't like to flex on the launch so they just go straight to spin city. Anyways good luck this weekend! I won't be there for this one, next one yes!
What did they say put you out of SA? I don't see any reason I wouldn't qualify. Definitely plenty examples of sticky street tires doing poorly for drag. But hopefully I can do something decent.
The Tech just said I'll be fine and didnt really give a clear indication of what made me not qualify for SA. I have a big TMIC, STI manifolds (red) and a stock location turbo (granted bigger but covered behind a head shield). Or maybe it was the wiring for the gauges I have? Which was and still isnt neatly tidied up :# You're AWD though. My experience in drag racing with autox tires were in the FWD world. It maybe fine!
Nice, thanks for updating. That is pretty laggy though...besides the size of the turbo, why is it spooling so late? The bigger cams? I'm assuming with the bigger cams though, you could make more power on the top end and go well beyond 7K RPM's...but that assumes that the rest of the top end is built to handle those RPM's. Like you said though, you'll be fine for the drag strip.
The cams really aren't that big. They're a pretty good match for this powerband. It is also not running AVCS and has a FMIC.
Also the run was done in 3rd gear of the 6 speed. Would spool a little sooner in 4th and higher. The other dyno plot had the Tmic and an extra 200 lbs (extra load to spool turbo) so it hit a little earlier. The video looked like you were shifting at 8k and it was still pulling strong where the other turbo was already starting to drop off before 7k. And the higher ambient temps probably didn't help the peak numbers, I bet the torque would be a lot higher if it was 30-40 degrees like the first one. Looks like a great setup for the strip. Best of luck! If they try to take you out of SA class you should argue that, I can't find anything that would disqualify you.
3rd gear on the long gear 6 speeds is plenty for tuning but you're right that 4th would spool a little sooner and show a little more torque. This time I was shifting around 7.5k. The FFS (without software) just makes it jump a little. Before I was shifting at 7k because that's about all it had. The extra weight and 40° cooler temps are also some mentionable non-car variables. In cool weather everything is faster. Even with all those things considered, this setup did 50-100mph in 5.4s and the other setup did it in 5.9s. So it did gain some speed, and the reduced powerband isn't really an issue for straight line use.
Saw some of the action today. Excuse the cell pics. I whipped the phone out pretty fast. Like .01 crappy cell pic reaction time. That's you right?
Yep, that looks like me! Thanks for the pics. I ran a few 11.4's @ 122mph with 1.8s 60' times today. Traps were higher but I just couldn't seem to get a good 60'.
Event: 1/4 Mile at MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.1 Location: MN Ambient Temp: 60-85F Elevation: ~1200ft Weather: Sunny and Clear Tires: 235/45R17 Federal 595 RS-R Tires on Stock 2011 WRX Wheels Car: 2002 WRX Sedan Tuner: Nuke @ NF Performance Transmission: 2012 STI 6 Speed 1/4 Mile ET: 11.42s 1/4 Mile Trap: 122.7mph 60': 1.88s Target Boost: 26psi Target AFR: 11's Fuel: E85 11.42s @ 122.7mph with 1.88s 60' The car ran great up at BIR. It did an 11.5 the first run on Friday. I did one other 11.5, but I battled with IC pipes popping off and the VSS/LC not working correctly. On Saturday it was trapping a little higher (in the 122's) and it did several 11.4's. I had trouble getting any decent 60' times or I think it could have gone a bit lower. Overall did about 20 passes over Friday and Saturday. I was launching at 6k and did an 8k launch (can be seen in the video) when the VSS/LC was acting up. From what I could tell I had some of the lowest times in the SA (stock appearing) class. On Sunday I went to do a test run and snapped my rear driver's axle on the first pass. I had brought to spare rear axles, but I had already given one to someone else who broke an axle, so I only had one left. I swapped it but decided not to run anymore because I had to drive it 2 hours back home. Overall I had a great time and the car was a blast! I think it felt great for how it was set up and I was happy with the power it was making.
Awesome : ) sis you have any sort of data logging running? The food thing about weak axles is that they're like a fuse, breaking before the expensive bits .
DAMN! I retract any previous statements that reflect any glimmer of doubt. Those are some great times and great driving...assuming you were the one behind the wheel Very nice work...and this just proves that the Federal's are pretty darn good in a straight line too.
Yeah, I made all the passes. The Federals did alright. Very consistent but only 1.8s 60' times. A few 1.7's but nothing really great. I'm sure plenty of that is due to the driver as well.
Started at 5700rpm and then went to 6000rpm and seemed to do better. Both settings would build a few psi on the line. Going to much lower and I'd fall out of my powerband. It all came down to the clutch release. I could get it to bog if I wanted. You can see that in one of the videos. I could also get it to easily spin all the way through first. I just never found that perfect balance point.
I'm certainly no expert lol. Wonder what Fuji could get out of it? Haha A 1.5 60" would shave a good bit from your time.
