Thanks! Some people on NASIOC (including someone also in here) said that all my pics suck, so I tried something a little different this time. I stood on a step stool for the wide angle shots.
Here are some new images from today. NF Performance: NFected: Recaro Euro Carseat: Anarchy Motive Shift Knob: MapDCCD Controller:
My brother did it. He has his istaled the same way. I'd sell the DCCDPro and get a MapDCCD. More for the money and higher quality.
Haha yeah I know I want the Map but I dunno if I would get what I paid for the dccdpro. I suppose I could try selling it... I do have the OEM switches that came with my swap. I won't be able to use them anyway because I have the limited with the seat heaters where the switches should be.
I finally got my Prodrive lip installed tonight (it has been sitting in my garage for >6 months). It was definitely a tight fit, but I made it work. I started by bolting on the ends, then I used a clamp to hold the lip up in place, and then I drilled holes through the lip and bumper. Once I made the holes I bolted it on. I did 4 bolts along the bottom as well as the 2 on the ends. 6 in total. Nothing in the middle, because there really isn't anything good to bolt it to. I did it all with the bumper on the car. I think this was one of my issues when I was trying to install it before (with the bumper off the car). I didn't use any of the double sided tape that was included, or any epoxy/glue that others have used. I used 6mm threaded nuts and bolts with flanged heads, going into a 1/4" hole. I may go back and add washers just in case. Even now they feel pretty secure, but the two middle bolts aren't actually holding the lip and bumper flat against each other. There is a gap (this is why it is normally held with tape instead of bolts or clips), so there could be some bounce/shifting while driving. I may have to Loctite the nuts. We'll see. I hope it holds up! Here are some camera phone pictures. Prepare for terrible quality! One on each end (through existing holes in the bumper): The one on the right is through and existing hole in the bumper. The one on the left I had to drill a new hole: Reverse angle: Installed photos:
Here are some better photos with the lip on. Used push pins on the ends because they're visible. Nuts and bolts underneath.
That 2015 does look pretty good...looks like the car is lowered? And I like the more artistic photos that you've been posting. I've always thought your pictures look good, and now you're just showing off your artistic ability! Ever think about coming out to shoot autox events?
It is stock height with the OEM lip. Bugeye is lowered on springs. I was told my car pictures suck on NASIOC so I've been trying to take better ones. Never thought about AutoX.
"I was told my car pictures suck on NASIOC so I've been trying to take better ones" They're just jealous.
Here's what I posted on a different forum: Camera: Canon 5D3 Lens: Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Tripod: Bogen 3021 with Ball Head Focal Length: 50mm Aperture: f/1.4 ISO: 100 Shutter Speed #1: 1/13s - Wheels Polarizer: Side of Car Shutter Speed #2: 1/30s - Side of Car Polarizer: Side of Car Shutter Speed #3: 1/50s - Front of Car Polarizer: Front of Car Shutter Speed #4: 1/320s - Sky Polarizer: Front of Car Adjusted the color balance, exposure, and black point of each shot individually in Lightroom. Then I aligned and stacked in Photoshop CS6. Finally, I blended exposures, straightened, cropped, sharpened, and did some other final tweaking to exposure and color balance (in CS6). Uploaded to my site which automatically adds my giant, ugly watermark, resizes, and resharpens.
To do HDR you would have to do exposure blending. But exposure blending is not always for HDR. In this case the blending was for the polarizations and for the exposure. So it could be considered an HDR but it's not as extreme as most you see.
Update: The new turbo I put on the car is the Kinugawa TD06H 60-1 with Billet wheel. Thanks to Nuke at NF Performance for the hook up on the turbo! This turbo is a 60mm compressor, which is the largest size that can fit in the stock sized inlet (for easier install). This compressor is 6mm larger than the STX 71 turbo (that I previously had). The TD06H hotside is also quite a bit bigger (than the TD06SL2 that the last turbo had). This turbo is somewhat comparable in size to a GT 35R, FP Red, PTE 5858, DOM4 XTR, etc. Here is it compared to some other turbo's commonly used on Subaru's: Code: Brand Turbo CmpInd CmpExd TrbInd TrbExd Flow CHRA Bearings Mounting Precision PTE 6266 62.00 81.99 74.17 66.00 73.5 Either Rotated Forced Perf FP Red 61.21 81.79 67.00 59.00 65.0 Journal Bearing Stock Garrett GTX 3576R 58.00 76.60 68.00 62.20 65.0 Ball Bearing Both Garrett GTX 3076R 58.00 76.60 60.00 54.90 64.0 Ball Bearing Both Precision PTE 5858 58.00 76.20 64.90 57.91 62.0 Either Rotated MHI TD06H 60-1 60.00 76.00 67.00 58.80 61.0 Journal Bearing Stock Blouch Dom 4.0 XT-R 60.00 82.00 64.00 58.60 60.0 Ball Bearing Stock BorgWarner EFR 7163 57.00 71.00 63.00 N/A 60.0 Ball Bearing Rotated Garrett GT 3582R 61.40 82.00 68.00 62.20 60.0 Ball Bearing Both Blouch Dom 3.5 XT-R 57.00 76.00 64.00 58.60 58.0 Ball Bearing Stock BorgWarner BW 7670 56.00 76.00 70.00 61.00 58.0 Journal Bearing Rotated Garrett GTX 3071R 54.10 71.40 60.00 54.90 56.0 Ball Bearing Both Steam STX 71 54.10 71.40 61.00 54.10 56.0 Journal Bearing Stock Blouch Dom 3.0 XT-R 57.00 76.00 60.00 54.90 55.0 Ball Bearing Stock Garrett GT 3076R 57.00 76.20 60.00 54.90 52.5 Ball Bearing Both Blouch Dom 2.5 XT-R 53.00 71.00 60.00 54.90 49.0 Ball Bearing Stock Blouch Dom 1.5 XT-R 53.00 71.00 56.50 51.70 49.0 Ball Bearing Stock MHI TD06SL2 20G 52.50 68.00 61.00 54.00 47.4 Journal Bearing Stock Blouch 20G XT-R 52.00 68.00 56.50 51.70 47.0 Ball Bearing Stock IHI VF39/48/52 46.50 60.00 52.80 47.88 34.0 Journal Bearing Stock Here are some photos of the turbo prior to install (it is a little dirty because I had been handling it and doing test fittings to make sure I got all the fittings and lines set up properly). Here's the stock photo. The turbo really does come with everything you see. Here's the photo of mine. At this point I had: Removed the Kinugawa billet wastegate actuator. Installed the GrimmSpeed wastegate block off arm. Installed the oil drain fitting and gasket. Installed both coolant banjo fittings. All other included parts can be seen in the photo. The included oil line is very nice. It looks just like the FP kit I have on the car. Also included are braided SS coolant lines (terminated with a barb fitting). The turbo comes with a nice billet wastegate actuator. I'm not using it due to my EWG setup. Front. Note the very thin inlet due to the 60mm compressor wheel just barely fitting in a 2.4" inlet. Rear. 8cm hotside. Coolant lines on the top ports. There is not enough room to use the bottom port (like the OEM fitting). Install: Overall it went pretty smoothly. The turbo fits pretty well for jamming something similar to a 35R into a stock location setup. The braided coolant lines work out nicely the way I set them up. Everything bolts up without much of an issue. I did have to run the oil feed under the inlet and around to the other side of the turbo so the line could squeeze between the turbine housing and the coolant banjo fitting. There wasn't enough room on the passenger side. I got it all done last night, primed the turbo, and fired it up. I ran it for a long time (30-40min) with a funnel in the coolent reservoir trying to burp the air out of the cooling system, but the bubbles just kept coming. Eventually I shut the car off and then could hear a leak from the CHRA area. It was losing coolant. Not a lot, but enough so it wasn't usable. I couldn't pinpoint the exact location. The coolant line banjo fittings seemed tight. Today after work I took off the FMIC pipe, the oil feed line, and the coolant feed line/banjo. This allowed me to access the plug in the lower cooling ports in the CHRA. The one on the driver side was completely loose! I tightened that down and put everything else back together. Fired it up and burped the air out within maybe 15 min. The fans only had to kick on a couple times and then the bubbles stopped. Here's a photo showing how the coolant lines are run. And here's a engine bay shot of the current setup. Notes: I also reversed the airflow in the FMIC setup. All I had to do was wiggle the pipes a bit and the last two could be hooked into the opposite things (turbo vs. throttle body). This should keep the air going into the motor a lot cooler because it's not going right over the turbo before going into the throttle body. I really don't know why they were ever set up like this in the first place. The turbo is not tuned yet. Hopefully Nuke will be able to fit me in sometime soon. I am looking forward to seeing how this turbo will pan out. I'm hoping it will make a bit more power than the last one. We'll see...
Nice! That's my turbo's big brother haha. I really like the kinugawa. Quality stuff and good price. Very interested in your results!
You don't have a side by side picture of the old turbo with this one do you? From what you read should this give similar spool to the stx71 with better top end? Will the advance you did to your timing gears help at all without the avcs?
I sold the old one before I bought the new one so no actual side by side photos. But my product photo workflow is pretty consistent so it shouldn't be too hard to scale shots (by matching a known dimension) in Photoshop. The STX71 was untested (it was brand new, I originally got a prototype). Just based on the specs the STX should spool quicker (because it is smaller), but mine seemed to spool really late for the power or made. I'm optimistic the new turbo will do better in spool vs. power but that might be wishful thinking. The timing advance should help the midrange with either turbo. Unfortunately I never did a log after changing that. It seemed like our might have helped a bit with of boost power but the turbo seemed to come on fairly similarly before and after the change.
Here are photos of various turbo's I've had over the last few years. They are NOT all scaled to the same size, but it's a decent approximation. Kinugawa TD06H 60-1 SteamSpeed STX71 (TD06SL2-GTX3071) IHI VF39 Blouch 20G XTR PTE 6266 IHI VF52 Blouch DOM 1.5 XTR Here's a comparison VF52 vs. DOM 1.5 vs. 6266. This one is to scale.
Those are interesting comparisons! The most obvious difference with that stx71 is all 10 compressor blades extend to the inlet where the 60-1 and all the others only have half the blades extend all the way. All that extra material on the compressor wheel increases inertia a lot and probably contributed to the late spool for the power it made. My TD06sl2 20G has the exact same hotside as that stx71 but the compressor looks like your new 60-1 and it spools like 1k sooner than the stx71. Obviously the new turbo is much bigger but I think it will give you a really nice powerband!
The STX compressor is a copy of the GTX3071 compressor. With the GT to GTX change Garrett extended all the blades like that. With minor changes to overall size (mainly the geometry changes) they saw similar spool to the old GT wheel and more top end flow. Here's info on the Garrett changes: So I think SteamSpeed just did a knock off wheel and hoped it would perform just as well, but to me it seemed laggy and didn't have quite the peak power I was hoping for. I can't really say that for sure until after this new turbo is tuned and we see how it compares. It definitely could just be my setup. It's too bad it didn't work out because the Kinugawa (ie. MHI) turbo lineup is really missing something in that 30R size range. The 20G is a 52-68 (inducer-exducer) compressor and then the next step is the 60-1 which is a 60-76 compressor. A compressor with a 54 to 57mm inducer (70 to 72mm exducer) seems like it would be a great middle ground. The STX71 fits this perfectly, and looks like a great low cost 30R alternative on paper, but the results didn't blow me away.
Great info! Looks like there is a guy in that kinugawa nasioc thread who had the 60-1 and it made pretty good power even on 93 octane and lower boost, definitely want to see your results. When I was buying mine they were offering the Kamak special 9 blade STS turbine wheel with the kinugawas and I was really curious how much better that would be. It is supposed to help spool and still keep good top end, do you know anything about that? Is yours the bullet compressor wheel option?
I looked around for a while and didn't see a lot of results on the 60-1 with the Subaru platform, so I guess we'll see. The STX 71 had the 9 blade turbine. I haven't seen any back to back comparisons between the turbine wheels though. I don't have the bullet compressor wheels, but I do have the billet compressor You can see how nice and shiny it is in the pics. Here's a couple close ups: Regular old turbine wheel: