So I know very little about aftermarket turbo's, but any reason why you didn't want to jump up to a 3" inlet? Something like this? http://elementtuning.com/store/#!/~/product/category=439247&id=1509862
Well that turbo is 65lb/min, which is a little larger than mine, but it's still journal bearing and costs close to twice as much! Plus I purposely chose the largest turbo I could find with stock size inlet so it would be easier to install. 3" can be a pain.
Yes, yes. I know. One more shot at the stock location class for Proving Grounds. I didn't see any other SA cars under 11.5 through Friday or Saturday...
Yea for $1900 you could get a good ball bearing turbo and get some better spool! Kinugawa is the best bang for your buck.
Touche, and I absolutely respect that decision. Build your car to be competitive for your class, not just because you feel the need for more power. You're sounding like a competitive driver, not just another person modding their Subaru for ****s and giggles But hey, to each their own.
Nuke did some tuning on my car tonight. I had to switch the FMIC pipes back because one was hitting the hood and kept popping off once we got to 25psi. Seems to be making good power for the boost it's at. The spool feels slightly better than the last turbo (which I found was leaking at the uppipe when I took it off). Need to turn it up some more soon!
I see you're taking offense to my elitist mentality Haha I'm not trying to sound like a douche, but having a ton of power just gets you in trouble on the street. Once you see what your car is capable of on a track, it is no longer as much fun to blast around the streets. I'm not judging those who do mod their cars and create a lot of power...hell, I bought the 3.6R just because I wanted more power! And I still have a ****-eating grin on my face every time that I catch a ride in someone's big turbo subaru Anyway, I don't want to drag thread off topic. Glad to hear that you got it tuned...I'll be curious to see graphs and more curious to see how it performs.
I'm not building a dedicated track car. 1/4 mile is just a measure of performance for me. If I can do well head to head that's just a bonus. I really have very little interest in any kind of road course driving anymore. It was fun a few times but not something I'd dedicate a lot more time or money into.
Nuke spent a few hours tweaking the tune and did many revisions last night. The car is driving great. It is smoother and more well behaved off boost than it ever has been since I got it. The response is good, although it does come on in the higher RPM range, as expected with a 60mm turbo. He also did some more WOT tuning of course The power delivery is very smooth. It doesn't slam the midrange like a smaller turbo. It just builds and keeps climbing. Even revving it out to close to 8k the power is still there. Butt dyno just feels like it's going up and up the further you rev. Boost comes on sooner than the STX 71 (54mm compressor), but I did find I had an uppipe to turbo leak once I pulled that turbo off (PHOTO). The 60-1 is currently tuned to around 30psi and it holds it flat all the way to redline. The Virtual Dyno shows it making 484 WHP / 426 WTQ. Not a huge jump in peak, but it's just a Virtual Dyno plot, so the 1/4 traps will tell the real story. It hits 20psi (and 300WHP) at around 4,400rpm's. It makes 400WHP at about 5,000rpm's and then climbs/flattens out to redline. It's a decent powerband for the street and plenty for drag. I am hoping this setup can get me close to 10's. Compared to the STX71 (which had the uppipe to turbo leak hurting the spool, but still made decent power and trapped 122mph) the 60-1 setup has a decent bump in power throughout the rev range, and has power coming on 300-400rpm's sooner. Both hold boost well. The STX 71 was peaking around 27psi vs about 30psi for the 60-1. I think if I can pick up a few mph through the traps with the new setup I will be close to 10's with a good pass. Versus the prototype STX 71 (which was a 53mm compressor inducer instead of 54mm of the production turbo) the 60-1 spools later by a few hundred RPM's but holds boost a lot better on the top end. I think this is a more typical example of what would happen when you go to a larger turbo (the STX71 was a bit of an anomaly since it had the uppipe leak and spooled slow for its size).
Here's a quick speedo video of my car running through the gears with the Kinugawa 60-1. The 50-100mph time is around 4.8 seconds. It was in the 5.5 second range when I was at the dragstrip with the STX71 (11.4s @ 122mph passes). With the 60-1 it seems like the car is still really moving in the 100mph+ range. Kinugawa TD06H 60-1 @ 30psi on E85 Video 50-100mph is 4.8 seconds 484WHP on Virtual Dyno (Dynojet)
I did some comparisons vs. my old setups. I did 50-110mph because the extra top end really starts to show the differences in the faster setups. I didn't do higher than 110mph because I didn't have speedo vids that high for all the setups. I only used videos from when my cars had the 6 speed transmissions. The 5 speed gearing can skew things a bit depending on what speed range you choose and how many shifts are needed. 50-110MPH | 2nd/3rd/4th Gear | 6MT Long Gears 5.78s | 2011 WRX | Precision 6266 | 30psi | 2nd/3rd/4th Gear 6.10s | 2002 WRX | Kinugawa 60-1 | 30psi | 2nd/3rd/4th Gear 6.53s | 2011 WRX | Blouch 20G XTR | 28psi | 4th Gear ONLY 7.37s | 2002 WRX | SteamSpeed STX71| 27psi | 2nd/3rd/4th Gear
Yeah that is awesome. This turbo looks like a nice option for pretty much as big as you can go in the stock location. I'm kind of hesitant to go rotated because of all the extra cost associated.
Thanks. I hope I can make that goal. It should be close. Well if you would have just done that from the start it's really not that much more.... ************* Another quick video. Brake boost 2nd gear and pulled all the way through the top of 4th.
I did some more work getting the reverse flow FMIC piping to work today. I had tried it previously just by switching the top two pipes that come with the 02-07 TurboXS FMIC kit. The pipes all fit together, but the passenger side sat too high and touched the hood. This caused the pipe to pop out under boost so I had to switch back. Luckily I found someone locally that was willing to donate the two spare pipes that come with the FMS/TurboXS FMIC kit for the 08-14. He has a WRX, so I got the STI version pipes (for the STI flange turbo, and STI intake manifold). These pipes are both longer than the 02-07 pipes so I cut them down to fit. The driver side works perfectly. I did have to sand off the powdercoating to get the TurboXS BOV to fit, but I am glad that I at least got it on. On the 02-07 kit I sanded a LOT and it still wouldn't fit so I had to use a hose and clamps. The passenger side pipes don't really line up, even after cutting, so I ordered a 45 deg coupler. It should arrive later this week or next week. Additionally I had been having intermittent issue with the pipes popping out, even with the pipes in the standard configuration. This happened at least half a dozen times at the track and multiple other times on the street. To try to resolve this issue I bought a set of hump couplers. The driver side mounted up fine. The hump coupler allows for a bit more movement and it also a hair longer. I managed to use a hump coupler and get the passenger side on as well. It's a bit kinked, but it does hold full boost. I will still be putting the 45 deg coupler on when I get it. I will also be putting hump couplers on at least the intercooler core endtanks. Maybe on the other two joints as well. Here are some photos. In progress: Before: After: More details:
That was like a whole day's work! Haha. Jk. I cleaned all of the fluid reservoir caps, but most are less noticeable. The engine bay still looks pretty crappy though. That rusty upper coolant reservoir is probably the biggest eyesore.
Isn't there a way to do a rotated intake manifold with the FMICs to reduce the piping volume, or have I just been smoking too much crack again?
Yes its relatively common, I think people usually use phenolic spacers so the throttle body clears the alternator. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1469659
Too much work. Maybe later. The main point in reversing flow is that it keeps the cold air from going directly over the turbo before entering the motor. I don't have AC so I can just move the alternator over.
I did some weighing of my WRX and RS hoods last night: RS (flat, steel, no insulation): 37.0lbs WRX (scoop, no splitter, insulation): 19.5lbs WRX (scoop, no splitter, no insulation): 18.5lbs WRX (no scoop, no splitter, no insulation): 17.0lbs WRX hood is back on to save ~20lbs.
wow that is a lot of weight saved... any plans to make a 'delete' plate or clean up the bolt holes where the scoop would mount to?
Maybe. Not a high priority though. Probably run no scoop at the track and leave the scoop on to avoid attention on the street. The red pipes and other shiny things are pretty obvious out the hole in the hood without the scoop. Overall the hood isn't in very good shape so I'm not really ppannig on investing much time or money into trying to make a pretty cover.
Its not like making some sort of delete plate would take an extreeeeme amount of effort...and the scoop and 'new' wheels completely take away the sleeper aspect imo. Assuming you're still going for the sleeper-look...tons of bugeyes these days are being made into high hp machines Edit: just playing devils advocate here
I did a little more work on the car tonight. 45° coupler arrived and was installed. I had to trim another ~1.5" off the red pipe on the turbo side. The 45° coupler was extra long so it was fairly easy to get the length to something that would work. With this coupler the reverse flow setup seems like it will work perfectly. I have noticed that since I switched the piping setup, my boost (measured at the intake manifold) is a couple PSI lower. I'm assuming that is because the air going into the manifold is colder and more dense, while the air pressure coming out of the compressor (and controlling the wastegate) is unchanged. At least I hope so... Or maybe it's just the weather? Haha. I also swapped out the intake for something a little less beat up. The old one was just looking pretty worn out. I got a new filter and used the short intake tube that comes with the TurboXS FMIC kit. It looks a bit better with a newer filter instead of the old worn out one. And what's this... I also installed a set of Agency Power Equal Length headers. They are wrapped with DEI Titanium wrap. I got them used and they came fully wrapped, but a couple spots were tearing (around the slip joints). I also got about 20ft of spare wrap so I touched up the spots that had issues. It came out looking great. Install went smoothly. No fitment issues and no leaks. The old header-to-head and header-to-uppipe gaskets looked like they had been sealing well. The sound changed considerably (as with any EL header). Much quieter. Haven't tuned it yet so I don't know if it increased power at all. I also removed the front sway bar while I was under there. One of the endlinks broke (with quite a loud pop) the other day when backing out of my driveway. I just removed it completely since it wasn't connected anyways. Ended up having to cut one of them off.
Weight reduction since the last time at the track: Removed all speakers: 5lbs Swapped to WRX hood: 20lbs Swapped to 04 STI wheels: 21lbs Swapped to EL header: 10lbs Removed front sway bar: 7lbs Removed rear sway bar: 10lbs Removed rear bumper beam: 30lbs Removed scissor jack and tools: 6lbs Removed trunk liners: 3lbs Total weight saved: 112lbs Weights are based on what I could find online. I didn't actually weigh anything myself...
I am excited to see how you do at PG2! Good luck. When are you heading to BIR? I might stop by on Saturday or Sunday.
