Ha! I learnt it at the skool of hard knox.... had to pull a bunch of stuff on the passenger side twice.
Gotcha. I've only recently had the gas smell, but I'm sure it'll continue happening unless i actually replace stuff. Upgraded fuel rails aren't going to be necessary for me lol. All very appreciated advice! Should I just call up Morrie's tomorrow and ask for 4-5 feet of fuel injection hose and fuel line clamps? Not sure how much I'd actually need.
Any Napa/O'Reilly's/Advanced/Auto Zone should have it. No need to go to a dealer (in my opinion). It's cheap enough you could easily just get a bunch and either toss whatever is left or keep it on hand for future projects.
So what constitutes an upgraded clamp? Obviously the OEM ones do not do the job (unless they have redesigned it or make some other change in material or something), and I don't think the old style worm gear clamps are an acceptable alternative for any and all underhood applications anymore.
I think I'm going with this for hose: https://www.amazon.com/LDR-516-F516...qid=1527257330&sr=1-4&keywords=5/16+fuel+line And two packs of clamps: https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Br...D=41aLwa9HctL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
I would think that something like these would work better? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758MV7VP/ref=sspa_mw_detail_4?psc=1
The worm gear clamps are fine as long as the slotted sections don't contact/dig into the hose. Personally, I'd be more concerned about accessibility to tighten them later (as mentioned above) and quality (since it's in a fairly hot area).
I like those! I believe 11-13 mm is the size I need, since it meets the 5/16-1/2 SAE range. Thank you for posting this Josh! I was thinking avoiding the worm clamp would be better.
I believe what I had seen was in reference to using worm gear clamps on plastic hose nipple applications such as radiators. The worm gear clamps do not spread clamping force evenly around their circumference and can cause a stress fracture of the nipple. I assume the hard fuel lines are metal and this possibility doesn't really apply in this case. I was just making a broad statement since we were talking about hose clamps.
I was going to stop by GrimmSpeed today. I think I need both intake manifold to TGV gaskets: http://www.grimmspeed.com/grimmspeed-intake-manifold-to-tgv-gasket-pair-subaru/ and TGV to engine gaskets: http://www.grimmspeed.com/grimmspeed-tgv-engine-gasket-pair-wrx-sti-lgt-fxt/ I just want to make sure I'm taking care of everything that I may as well take care off once the intake manifold is off.
The ones @tangledupinblu posted are the correct replacement, they apply even clamping force all the way around without biting into the rubber line. You will need to check & retighten them when it gets below 0*, the factory hardline shrinks and then leaks.
I must've missed the part where you said you're taking the intake off. Disregard the part where I said this will be difficult. Having the intake off will make this job infinitely easier. Also, I'll second or third the use of those non-slotted style clamps. Way better for fuel lines. You got this!
Haha thank you for the extra motivation. I picked up the AMR aluminum inlet pipe. The intake is gonna have to come off to get that to fit lol. These are the non-slotted clamps I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727Q4K6X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Took a little sleuthing on Amazon but they're out there.
Anddd I'm just reading this now. Are you saying the 18-20mm ones that I need? I was under the impression the diameter of the 5/16 hose is a little under 1/2? I think the ones I ordered will suffice as they're not the worm-style clamps.
I think you bit off more than you can handle, kid. I attempted to remove the manifold last weekend and realized how disorganized I was, so I installed new spark plugs and called it a day. Looks like I'm going to wimp out and get a Perrin inlet...
You might be able to get away with just unbolting the mani so you have a few extra inches to play with (not remove it entirely). I've also found that unbolting the PS pump from the block and moving it out of the way (don't have to disconnect any of the PS lines) will free up some extra needed real estate to sneak the new inlet in.
Yeah yeahhhh. This made me chuckle though lol. You're thinking this route would allow me to get the cast aluminum inlet pipe in?
^what he said.... you don't really need to remove it completely... just get enough slack to lift the passenger side a few inches... those fuel hardline to manifold bolts are kind of a pain in the dick to get to.
Thank you both, that does make me feel a little better. I've also noticed that AMR gives you a lot less **** than APS. Am I dicked if I don't get my hands on the additional hoses and what not? http://www.airpowersystems.com/wrx/intake/install.htm
I can't say for sure what all you'll need for hoses. The only thing plugged into my inlet one of the ports that goes to my EBCS. With my AOS, BOV and evap delete, the other ports on the inlet are plugged. I don't think you can source a brand new APS inlet these days unless it's NOS from someone hoarding parts. You should be able to reuse your stock hoses with the AMR pipe, but you might have to get creative with some new hoses and/or reducers to mate them from the inlet to your existing hoses if the vacuum ports on the inlet are too big for the stock hoses. I remember I had to grind down one of the ports so I could fit a smaller hose over it without having to run a reducer, essentially making the circumference of the port smaller so I could fit the smaller ID hose on it (if that makes sense).
So, update. I did indeed wimp out and install the Perrin inlet today which was still a pain in the ass, but it's in. I no longer have a stutter/hesitation when I put the car in first or reverse like i did previously, but I'm still not hitting boost. I checked the turbo as @joebush44 suggested, but it has minimal shaft play and freely rotates. I think a stop at JM may be in order to get a real diagnosis.
Maybe take a look at your vacuum line routing going to and from your EBCS. Assuming you have a VF series turbo or the stock td04 the stock wastegate spring pressure would be around 9psi. So if you're peaking at around 9psi the EBCS or vac line routing is suspect. Port 3 connects to a high-pressure boost source (there is a vacuum nipple on the turbo compressor outlet). Port 2 connects to the internal wastegate actuator vacuum nipple and Port 1 should be routed back to the turbo inlet. I'm guessing you didn't reuse any of the stock boost control vacuum lines, but just in case...There is a "pill" in the stock 'T' vacuum line going from the compressor housing to the wastegate...you want to be sure you're not still using the line with that pill in it with the 3 port controller Good luck!
Thanks @joebush44. JM actually put the EBCS on the car before my tune last summer, so it looks like they did indeed replace the lines. I checked the wastegate and it seemed to move freely and didn't have any hesitation or get stuck when I moved it back and forth. The preload seems normal too. I sprayed a good amount of PB blaster onto the wastegate arm/c-clip anyway and took my car out for a test drive. It hit maybe 4-5 pounds of boost per my gauge but it didn't hold the pressure at all.
Bizarre. You could try hooking up a vacuum line going directly from the wastegate to the turbo compressor, bypassing the EBCS all together. That should give you ~9psi (wastegate pressure). If you hit 9 lbs, I think that would rule out a turbo or wastegate mechanical issue. If you still don't hit about 9lbs, then you've narrowed it down to either the turbo or wastegate. Just throwing out some ideas...
I am starting to think my clutch gave out. I've been needing to rely on lower gears to get up to highway speeds and then putting it in fifth when I'm cruising. This is my first manual vehicle, so things like this just wouldn't have crossed my mind to begin with... It's just shy of 127,000 miles, but I have no idea if the clutch has ever been serviced. Would that make sense at all, even with my boosting issues?
When my clutch went out in the Legacy I could basically floor it in gear and watch the tach race up. There was a pretty distinct spot where you could feel it give out and the rpm's would lift as it slipped. Maybe if the clutch is slipping you're not getting the motor under load like seems to be required in order to build boost.
This idea came to me while I was reading your Legacy thread lol, but that's my exact thinking. If I'm in fifth gear going say, 60, and I apply any pressure to even slightly accelerate, the RPMs spike up until I let it go and can feel it grabbing again. This happens in fourth too. Hill starts have been a pain in the ass lately too. A clutch replacement is a little more than I want to try and tackle too.
That stinks. Might've found your issue, tho. What's your experience like with a wrench? It's really not that bad, just labor intensive. And you need the room to work, of course.
I've never attempted anything like this nor dropped the transmission before. I have a feeling I'd be in a world of hurt if I was attempting this on my own the first time around.
