Krazy, mine does, I don't know if it's different for different vehicles, mine cuts off if I try putting it in drive or drop the parking brake, like a normal one. I wonder if they set up the emergency brake cable.
I'm legitimately confused here. Does it not say the starter stays on when the door is open? Am I missing something?
The car stays running when the doors open. So the "remote" starter stays running! lol. Not his physical starter.
I get it now. I should probably go back to bed... Also, pulled the motor from the WRX today to (hopefully) fix a handful of oil leaks. Also swapping out motor and tranny mounts for group N mounts, changing plugs, and putting on a set of headers I scored a while ago. Unfortunately broke a tooth off the crank timing sprocket trying to get it off, so if anybody has one sitting somewhere, I need one!
I think they did. I remember that the OEM one available for my crosstrek in 2014 was the same. The outback is a 2015. I'd have to assume it was a "safety" feature changed at some point. I think it's dumb that the car turns off when you open a door. I wish it was like all the previous remote starts (a few aftermarkets, and a OEM from GM) were, where it shuts off if you hit the brake with out the key in the ignition. But I would wonder if it has something to do with the push button starts that are available from Subaru?
Installed the Optima Red Top. As usual, what should be a quick project took longer than expected. The negative battery post on the Optima is a smaller diameter than my old battery, and I couldn't get the negative terminal tight enough on the post. A quick Google search, turned up battery post "shims". Something I didn't even know existed. So, I took the wife's car to Auto Zone, and a half hour later, we were good to go! Tomorrow, she gets dropped off to fix an exhaust leak and hopefully an alignment next week!
Did some rides on a bunch of bikes from full rigid fat bike to full-squelch (full-squish fatbike) and I ended up with full-squish Cannondale Scalpel. 100mm travel that can be locked out with a push of the remote. Very handy. https://mnsubaru.com/threads/what-i...chase-pics-required.38845/page-25#post-862891 I also took the WRX out on a family road trip to the Dells and back for the 4th holiday. Fully loaded up with suitcases, strollers, snacks, etc. with the 4 of us in it, I still managed to average 32.1MPG on the highway going 75mph. I had a bit of buyer's remorse when I went with the WRX instead of the STI, but I know there is virtually no way a STI can get that kind of mileage.
LMK what you go with...I too am in need of a new battery, and just haven't done it. My buddy is a big proponent of Interstate batteries, and carries them at his shop, so the convenience factor is nice with that. However, I'm open to looking at other brands. This is another area I'm learning about.
On the way to work this morning, a shredded tire whacked my left headlight and left side of the hood, leaving awesome black skid marks behind.
Tracked down the exhaust leak. Flange gasket that comes off the headers, and goes to the HFC. Replaced the gasket, and used a high temp silicone to seal it back up. Also located a spot where I'm still getting tire rub. Might need to do an actually roll & pull but may just wait until next spring, since the summer setup will be coming off before you know it.
I'd say insert "that'll buff out" joke here, but I honestly don't know that it would. Looks like it might have dented a few places, too?
After taking some tar and bug remover to it, the marks came off. I can see where the initial impact happened, but the average person wouldn't. This is why I'm glad I have a silver car lol. I think I'm going to skip calling my insurance.
Have you had luck with hi temp silicone on exhaust in the past? I've got a couple slight leaks where the flanges don't meet at exactly the right angle.
This is my first experience with it. So I'll be the guinea pig. My exhaust guy is excellent, so I trust his word that it will hold up. It's amazing how quiet my car is now. It had an annoying "blurble", and I just got used to it.
When I yanked my engine, I noticed my exhaust manifold to block gaskets were leaking. I'm not sure if the flanges on the headers are a bit warped or the surface isn't perfectly flat on the head (or both), but this time around I'm going to use some gasket sealant. I'm planning on using thin layer of the "Ultra - Copper" as it has a slightly higher temp threshold as compared to the red (700* vs 650*). I don't know if the ultra copper would be any better of an option over the red for exhaust gasket sealing. Supposedly, "ultra" RTV's are second generation and are supposed to have better flexibility and seal-ability. The Non-ultras are first-gen. So going by that, I'd think the ultra would hold up to flexing better. Hell, idunno. Food for thought. From a similar thread topic on a different site. Red........................High temp...............650*F....Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans Blue.....................sensor safe...............500*F...Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans Orange.......Sensor safe AND High temp....650*F...Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans Ultra-Black.........Max oil resistance.........500*F....Valve covers, oil pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, transmission pans ALSO sensor safe and fast curing Ultra-blue............Sensor safe................500*F...Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, transmission pans, differential covers Ultra-copper.........Max temperature.........700*F... Exhaust manifolds/ headers, valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housingsAlso sensor safe Ultra-grey.....High-torque/high-vibration..500*F.....Valve covers, oil pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings. does not say sensor safe
It's a good thing every single one of them says valve covers, so as not to be confusing for which one's the best. Haha. I got HondaBond HT and put it on every gasket and seal I could find. Fingers crossed hard this time.
Yeah HondaBond, FujiBond are both good. I use the FujiBond personally. They are probably the same thing. I'm not too familiar using sealant on exhaust gaskets, but going to give the ultra copper a whirl on my ex mani to head gaskets.
Been using ultra copper instead of gaskets... header to block and all the way back for 10+ years with no leaks ( I do use gaskets on turbo surfaces)
Drove it for the first time in just under two weeks. Pulled the motor last weekend with the main objective being fix the oil leaks (hopefully!), mainly because it was leaking right onto the uppipe. To help justify pulling it, I also did Group N motor & tranny mounts, swapped on some Tomei uel headers I picked up last fall, and changed spark plugs while it was as easy as possible. Replaced valve cover gaskets, cam & crank seals, oil cooler o-ring, PCV valve, and oil pressure sender. HondaBond'ed everything and am now praying to the Subaru gods that it doesn't somehow leak again. Or at least for a decent amount of time.
I'm always impressed by you mechanical guys pulling motors, replacing transmissions, suspensions, etc. That just seems like such a major deal to do that it is something I'll probably never get to trying unless I have a spare car, a garage with a lift, tons of tools, and my head full of the know-how to do so. Aside from my profession, my only area of expertise would be in archery involving bow set up and tuning for both traditional (recurve and longbow) and most compounds as well as arrows and other support gear. Compared to the complexity of a car, that isn't very hard to learn, nor it is very impressive.
For me it's always been a combination of having the interest in seeing how things work and also a little bit out of necessity. Unfortunately I can't afford to take the car to a shop even if I wanted to, so I usually take on whatever I can to a) save money, b) hopefully learn something, and c) buy a new specialty tool (if required for said repair) with saved money. Over the years I've assembled a somewhat decent tool collection. Also, I consider myself to be more of a "parts replacer" rather than a full on mechanic I guess. I don't really have the fancy tools on hand for full on, proper diagnostics, but luckily there's this thing called the interwebs that's pretty close. So luckily I can exhaust myself with research beforehand and usually save myself the "throwing parts at it" headache down the road. Lastly, there's many a day where I'd love to just take it somewhere and say "here, fix it". It's always pretty gratifying to pull off a repair yourself when everything works out. Conversely, it's a huge let down when you spend a ton of time and think you nailed it only to have something come up again. For example, the valve cover gaskets. I told myself last time if they didn't seal I'd pay to have it done, because it's such a crappy job to do (this time was my 3rd!). Well, I feel like I did it "better" this time and if they somehow don't last or I did something wrong again, I'm done! Haha.
I'm interested in how you like the Group N mounts for sure. That's a lot of work done though, good stuff.
So far I'm digging it. My immediate reaction when I first started the car and revved it was "oh... this might not be good". It seemed like I could feel the engine a little more, to the point I thought maybe something was wrong. That quickly went away about 10 seconds later when I put it into gear. It makes shifting way smoother, especially at slow speeds. I feel like there's always been a slight issue when trying to get into reverse in certain situations. And there's almost zero shaking when you go to start out in first now. Overall I'd say I'll probably get used to the slightly "noisier" idle over time and isn't much of a burden in exchange for the better shifting experience.
Ha, I hear and feel every bump in the road with the Group N STI tophats and RCE springs, what's a little more road noise? lol I'm glad you're happy with it though! Hopefully I can make that upgrade happen in the near future.
I got mine on eBay for $200 BIN. Best deal I could find online and it was for the whole set (minus the dog bone thing). Figured I didn't really need the dog bone to murder the already weak firewall.
Anyone on here? http://www.kare11.com/news/deer-crashes-through-windshield-into-passenger-seat/455495940
I owe you a thank you for this suggestion. Put ultra copper between the down and mid pipes because I was too impatient to wait for a new gasket. I did however have the patience to let it dry 24 hours. The car sounds really weird now that the noise is coming from the rear only.
Came back from the cabin and the battery was completely dead in the WRX. Would not take a charge even after being on recondition mode via the charger for 24 hours and was showing code F03 (sulfated). The battery is a Kirkland just 45 months old. Still had the 100 month prorated warranty through them and got a brand new battery (now Interstate) for $37!
Brand New Subie... '99 Legacy Outback with 0 rust and a completely redone engine. Tons of plans for this that couldn't happen due to rust on my Impreza...
Replaced plugs with NGK's in our 95L 2.2 Previous owner had Autolites in there that were at this point gapped as far as .08 and black.
Installed a Nameless Performance 5 inch Exhaust on my XV today. Pretty easy to install, sounds great!
I had their muffler deletes, then their 5" muffs. I want to hear this in person. Nameless make a hell of a good product!
